Saab 35 Draken MikroMir-kit
Yorumlar
38 26 February, 21:28
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Very cool, I'm getting the Mikro Mir kit, interested to hear how it goes together
27 February, 00:22
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True! Joining in as well to see how this builds up. Enjoy the build! 👍🏼
28 February, 00:28
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Welcome, mates! I'm building also a Hasegawa kit alongside with this for comparison and for testing painting.
29 February, 06:24
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Łukasz, I was thinking the same. That 'old' Hasegawa kit isn't that bad after all. The MikroMir kit is only marginally more refined as it seems.
4 March, 14:38
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Hasegawa has only 60 grey parts and 3 clear parts, but it is pretty smartly made and easy to build. MikroMir has 150 grey parts, 5 clear parts and 67 mandatory PE-parts. Being a short-run kit its parts need more work to fit. Still MikroMir contains more details (and Falcon missiles) than Hasegawa so it's comparatively cheaper.
4 March, 16:18
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OK, so you do think the MikroMir kit is the more detailed one? Good to know when I get to my Austrian Draken project (sometimes this century.... )! Following your build with interest! 👍
4 March, 21:00
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Well my background research is still going on, but atleast the cockpit is more detailed.
4 March, 21:19
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I have to update that MikroMir's IRST is not as good as Hasegawa's. The seeker head is a clear part and there is one PE-part fin, but the two-part frame is bulky and doesn't have panel lines. Luckyly the Draken version I'm goingt to make doesn't have an IRST so I used the clear part and the PE-part to improve my Hasegawa-Draken's IRST.
7 April, 15:44
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Slow progress, but I'm very proud of this simple tool that I made in 15 min to make 0,8mm diameter styrene circles.
5 June, 17:38
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Man. Struggling away with the clear parts on my RF-8 right now. Toughest part of modeling probably. Nice work on your canopy!
28 June, 03:30
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Thanks! @Rando I agree it is one of the most tough and riskiest parts. They took me 3 days because I wanted to make them pretty shiny with Humbrol Clear, but it takes lots of time to dry and it has become too thick. Next day when I check the clear parts they have some ugly residues and unevenness +hair. On the other part I just sanded and polished some minor points, but the other part I cleaned the varnish away with isopropanol and tried to dip it in varnish again. Next day still unevenness so I just sanded and polished them avay and dipped it in my more reliable floor polish that also dries faster.
28 June, 17:31
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Yeah I've always had that with dipping parts in the floor polish, it doesn't dry evenly for me so I just polish with Tamiya and Novus compound. Good to get over the hump and onto painting and decals!
28 June, 23:59