Hawker Hunter T.68 Project
![Album image #1 Album image #1](/albums/img/8/0/3/1191803-27826-30-720.jpg)
Typical Matchbox sprues in colors of those years. For the homesickness. Very wide and sparse panel lines, but I guess in this paint scheme I can live with it.
![Album image #2 Album image #2](/albums/img/8/0/4/1191804-27826-55-720.jpg)
Typical Matchbox sprues in colors of those years. For the homesickness. Very wide and sparse panel lines, but I guess in this paint scheme I can live with it.
![Album image #3 Album image #3](/albums/img/8/0/5/1191805-27826-46-720.jpg)
Typical Matchbox sprues in colors of those years. For the homesickness.
![Album image #4 Album image #4](/albums/img/8/0/8/1191808-27826-61-720.jpg)
Transparent parts for single-seater and two-seater versions.
![Album image #5 Album image #5](/albums/img/8/0/6/1191806-27826-81-720.jpg)
Decals from Matchbox which I will don't use (maybe just the ones on the control panel).
![Album image #6 Album image #6](/albums/img/8/0/7/1191807-27826-61-720.jpg)
I will be using some parts of the decals from the Revell kit. Other parts will be made with laser printer.
![Album image #7 Album image #7](/albums/img/8/2/0/1191820-27826-65-720.jpg)
The interiors have no detail. The side numbers of pieces 10 and 11 must be sanded (I will do with a fiberglass pencil).
![Album image #8 Album image #8](/albums/img/8/2/1/1191821-27826-16-720.jpg)
The kit only includes the seats that are placed floating in the cockpit.
![Album image #9 Album image #9](/albums/img/8/2/2/1191822-27826-17-720.jpg)
I have made a floor to the cabin with a piece of plastic card, where can the floating seats support.
![Album image #10 Album image #10](/albums/img/8/2/3/1191823-27826-82-720.jpg)
The floor fits well.
![Album image #11 Album image #11](/albums/img/8/2/4/1191824-27826-71-720.jpg)
The model has practically perfect fits. It is unfastened, but despite how old it is, it fits very well (for now).
![Album image #12 Album image #12](/albums/img/8/2/5/1191825-27826-22-720.jpg)
The front bay wheels is barely deep and without details.
![Album image #13 Album image #13](/albums/img/1/1/6/1190116-27826-26-720.jpg)
Bay wheels made from scratch. I had to leave a small support where the landing gear is housed to gain the lost height after surgery.
![Album image #14 Album image #14](/albums/img/8/3/1/1191831-27826-22-720.jpg)
You now have the depth for the train set to fit.
![Album image #15 Album image #15](/albums/img/5/1/5/296515-27826-93-pristine.jpg)
Bay wheels, cockpit floor and other elements.
![Album image #16 Album image #16](/albums/img/9/9/3/1191993-27826-27-720.jpg)
More plastic strips added.
![Album image #17 Album image #17](/albums/img/9/9/4/1191994-27826-52-720.jpg)
More plastic strips and metal sheet added.
![Album image #18 Album image #18](/albums/img/5/1/6/296516-27826-46-pristine.jpg)
I have made the buttons by puncturing the metal sheets with a sewing needle without drilling completely. Other elements are made with small pieces of copper wire.
![Album image #19 Album image #19](/albums/img/9/9/5/1191995-27826-37-720.jpg)
I have made the buttons by puncturing the metal sheets with a sewing needle without drilling completely. Other elements are made with small pieces of copper wire.
I will continue with the cockpit later.
I will continue with the cockpit later.
![Album image #20 Album image #20](/albums/img/5/1/7/296517-27826-23-pristine.jpg)
The kit does not include the exhaust (it is hollow inside). So I've put one that fits. In this case it is the exhaust of an Airfix Folland Gnat. It may not be very real, but it's better than nothing.
![Album image #21 Album image #21](/albums/img/9/9/9/1191999-27826-80-720.jpg)
I think this is the most difficult part to improve the austere interiors of this kit because both the air intakes and the bay wheels are totally empty.
![Album image #22 Album image #22](/albums/img/0/0/0/1192000-27826-96-720.jpg)
I think this is the most difficult part to improve the austere interiors of this kit because both the air intakes and the bay wheels are totally empty.
![Album image #23 Album image #23](/albums/img/0/0/1/1192001-27826-13-720.jpg)
Empty interiors communicates through all the gaps. This could damage eyesight if your eyes are sensitive to extreme lack of detail and should to be fixed somehow if you don't want the air from your aircraft to enter through the air intakes and exit through the bay wheels.
![Album image #24 Album image #24](/albums/img/0/0/2/1192002-27826-77-720.jpg)
So we started working on the bay wheels, piece by piece, chunk by chunk, cutting here, sanding there, leveling everywhere, continually testing fit... and with a good dose of patience.
![Album image #25 Album image #25](/albums/img/0/0/3/1192003-27826-34-720.jpg)
The joints will be filled with putty and sanded later.
![Album image #26 Album image #26](/albums/img/0/1/1/1192011-27826-18-720.jpg)
Testing fit.
![Album image #27 Album image #27](/albums/img/0/1/2/1192012-27826-54-720.jpg)
Testing fit.
![Album image #28 Album image #28](/albums/img/0/1/3/1192013-27826-93-720.jpg)
Detailing the bottom of the bay wheels (yes, they are the plastic strips used to hang clothing tags in stores).
![Album image #29 Album image #29](/albums/img/5/1/8/296518-27826-71-pristine.jpg)
Bay wheels interiors completed.
![Album image #30 Album image #30](/albums/img/5/1/9/296519-27826-73-pristine.jpg)
To fill and simulate the duct of the air intakes I use more pieces of plastic card (the work of this piece continues in pic 58).
![Album image #31 Album image #31](/albums/img/0/1/6/1192016-27826-82-720.jpg)
Trying to adapt the shape so that the wings can fit the fuselage (sadly this will make the excellent fit of the kit disappear).
![Album image #32 Album image #32](/albums/img/0/2/7/1192027-27826-23-720.jpg)
Continuing with the cockpit. First I try to improve the seats somewhat with metal strips.
![Album image #33 Album image #33](/albums/img/0/2/8/1192028-27826-48-720.jpg)
Seat pads...
![Album image #34 Album image #34](/albums/img/5/2/0/296520-27826-65-pristine.jpg)
... and other elements. I haven't been able to improve the headrests because the canopy would not close properly. I will only be able to make the ejection rings on them.
![Album image #35 Album image #35](/albums/img/3/8/4/1192384-27826-28-720.jpg)
Placing a counterweight for avoid a tail drop and painting the cockpit's interior...
![Album image #36 Album image #36](/albums/img/3/8/5/1192385-27826-44-720.jpg)
... and the seats.
![Album image #37 Album image #37](/albums/img/3/8/9/1192389-27826-13-720.jpg)
Belts made with 0.7mm masking tape.
![Album image #38 Album image #38](/albums/img/3/9/0/1192390-27826-23-720.jpg)
Buckles made from small cut-out pieces of metal sheet.
![Album image #39 Album image #39](/albums/img/3/9/1/1192391-27826-37-720.jpg)
Almost finished seats.
![Album image #40 Album image #40](/albums/img/3/9/6/1192396-27826-83-720.jpg)
Control levers and ejection rings (made with a pair of fine copper wires each painted yellow and black, and twisted together).
![Album image #41 Album image #41](/albums/img/5/2/1/296521-27826-54-pristine.jpg)
![Album image #42 Album image #42](/albums/img/5/5/1/1192551-27826-21-720.jpg)
The control panel is still missing. Area previously putty, sanded and painted.
![Album image #43 Album image #43](/albums/img/5/5/2/1192552-27826-15-720.jpg)
This is the horrible Matchbox decal, but there isn't anything else.
![Album image #44 Album image #44](/albums/img/5/5/3/1192553-27826-12-720.jpg)
Decal break ups in water. Irretrievably I have to make one from scratch.
![Album image #45 Album image #45](/albums/img/5/5/4/1192554-27826-54-pristine.jpg)
I use the following pic as a reference.
![Album image #46 Album image #46](/albums/img/5/5/5/1192555-27826-89-720.jpg)
Punched thin styrene sheet.
![Album image #47 Album image #47](/albums/img/5/5/6/1192556-27826-15-720.jpg)
Added sheet metal parts with small bits of copper wire to simulate some buttons.
![Album image #48 Album image #48](/albums/img/5/5/7/1192557-27826-61-720.jpg)
Control panel painted and fitted (not glued yet to check fit).
![Album image #49 Album image #49](/albums/img/5/5/8/1192558-27826-97-720.jpg)
After gluing it, I try to paint the dials and put a couple of drops of gloss varnish on them (Future type).
![Album image #50 Album image #50](/albums/img/5/2/2/296522-27826-99-pristine.jpg)
After gluing it, I try to paint the dials and put a couple of drops of gloss varnish on them (Future type).
![Album image #51 Album image #51](/albums/img/5/6/0/1192560-27826-60-720.jpg)
Finally I add the HUDs with a couple of pieces of acetate cut more or less to size.
![Album image #52 Album image #52](/albums/img/5/6/1/1192561-27826-17-720.jpg)
Finally I add the HUDs with a couple of pieces of acetate cut more or less to size.
![Album image #53 Album image #53](/albums/img/7/9/3/1193793-27826-46-720.jpg)
Improving the air intakes interiors.
![Album image #54 Album image #54](/albums/img/5/2/3/296523-27826-40-pristine.jpg)
Improving the air intakes interiors.
![Album image #55 Album image #55](/albums/img/7/9/6/1193796-27826-71-pristine.jpg)
Improving the air intakes interiors.
![Album image #56 Album image #56](/albums/img/7/9/7/1193797-27826-82-pristine.jpg)
Improving the air intakes interiors.
![Album image #57 Album image #57](/albums/img/7/9/8/1193798-27826-28-720.jpg)
Improving the air intakes interiors.
![Album image #58 Album image #58](/albums/img/8/1/1/1193811-27826-58-720.jpg)
Improving the air intakes interiors (resuming the work of pic 30). Filling the piece with Green Putty from Squadron, making the curvature with sandpaper.
![Album image #59 Album image #59](/albums/img/8/1/2/1193812-27826-69-720.jpg)
Improving the air intakes interiors (resuming the work of pic 30). Filling the piece with Green Putty from Squadron, making the curvature with sandpaper.
![Album image #60 Album image #60](/albums/img/8/1/3/1193813-27826-98-720.jpg)
Testing the result.
![Album image #61 Album image #61](/albums/img/8/1/4/1193814-27826-31-720.jpg)
Testing the result.
![Album image #62 Album image #62](/albums/img/5/2/4/296524-27826-91-pristine.jpg)
Painting and slightly dirtying the inside of the air intakes.
![Album image #63 Album image #63](/albums/img/5/2/5/296525-27826-71-pristine.jpg)
Wings attached to fuselage (seams required to be filled and sanded due to previous surgery on air intakes and bay wheels).
![Album image #64 Album image #64](/albums/img/8/1/6/1193816-27826-17-720.jpg)
Interiors air intakes job finished.
![Album image #65 Album image #65](/albums/img/5/2/6/296526-27826-35-pristine.jpg)
Interiors air intakes job finished.
![Album image #66 Album image #66](/albums/img/5/2/7/296527-27826-65-pristine.jpg)
Filled and sanded due to previous surgery on air intakes and bay wheels.
![Album image #67 Album image #67](/albums/img/8/1/7/1193817-27826-92-720.jpg)
Filled and sanded due to previous surgery on air intakes and bay wheels.
![Album image #68 Album image #68](/albums/img/5/2/8/296528-27826-87-pristine.jpg)
Filled and sanded due to previous surgery on air intakes and bay wheels.
![Album image #69 Album image #69](/albums/img/8/1/8/1193818-27826-50-720.jpg)
Matchbox kit does not include these wings parts.
![Album image #70 Album image #70](/albums/img/5/2/9/296529-27826-55-pristine.jpg)
Used Revell's Kit Parts.
![Album image #71 Album image #71](/albums/img/8/1/9/1193819-27826-93-pristine.jpg)
Matchbox kit does not include these nose parts.
![Album image #72 Album image #72](/albums/img/5/3/0/296530-27826-32-pristine.jpg)
Used Revell's Kit Parts.
![Album image #73 Album image #73](/albums/img/8/2/0/1193820-27826-13-pristine.jpg)
Matchbox kit does not include these tail parts.
![Album image #74 Album image #74](/albums/img/5/3/1/296531-27826-74-pristine.jpg)
Used Revell's Kit Parts.
![Album image #75 Album image #75](/albums/img/8/2/1/1193821-27826-26-720.jpg)
Revell kit parts put on.
![Album image #76 Album image #76](/albums/img/8/2/2/1193822-27826-14-pristine.jpg)
The tail bulge that houses the drag chute is also not reproduced in the Matchbox kit.
![Album image #77 Album image #77](/albums/img/8/2/3/1193823-27826-52-720.jpg)
I use the part from the Revell's kit to reproduce the tail bulge with a metal sheet.
![Album image #78 Album image #78](/albums/img/8/2/4/1193824-27826-30-720.jpg)
I use the part from the Revell's kit to reproduce the tail bulge with a metal sheet.
![Album image #79 Album image #79](/albums/img/5/3/2/296532-27826-37-pristine.jpg)
Reproduced piece placed in its place. Finally I fill with putty the seam that separates both sides.
![Album image #80 Album image #80](/albums/img/0/3/6/1194036-27826-49-pristine.jpg)
I have to make the bays where the cannons are housed.
![Album image #81 Album image #81](/albums/img/0/4/4/1194044-27826-94-720.jpg)
Matchbox kit lacks them.
![Album image #82 Album image #82](/albums/img/0/4/5/1194045-27826-51-720.jpg)
I also don't have proper tools to do this. But I'll try to do what I can.
![Album image #83 Album image #83](/albums/img/0/4/6/1194046-27826-21-720.jpg)
I couldn't get them straight, so I had to use putty to correct the curves a bit. Another problem is that the Matchbox kit only includes one of the two barrel fairings that I need, so i had to build a copy of it.
![Album image #84 Album image #84](/albums/img/0/4/8/1194048-27826-61-720.jpg)
Somewhere I read someone how he made the copy of a piece using tube silicone to make the mold. This method only works for making one face of the part. To reproduce the three dimensions of a part, other more complex methods must be used.
It is convenient to use a transparent film where to apply the silicone (so that after drying it does not stick to the surface where it is applied, and thus easily detach it from the film). Also it's advisable to first apply a thin film of some lubricant to the piece (for example, Vaseline, some oil, etc...) so that the piece no sticks to the silicone so that the piece can be detached later without any problem.
After carefully positioning the piece, wait a few hours for the silicone to dry completely.
It is convenient to use a transparent film where to apply the silicone (so that after drying it does not stick to the surface where it is applied, and thus easily detach it from the film). Also it's advisable to first apply a thin film of some lubricant to the piece (for example, Vaseline, some oil, etc...) so that the piece no sticks to the silicone so that the piece can be detached later without any problem.
After carefully positioning the piece, wait a few hours for the silicone to dry completely.
![Album image #85 Album image #85](/albums/img/0/4/9/1194049-27826-53-720.jpg)
Meanwhile, I put a bit pieces of trees and a few nitro solvent in a jar (this takes a few hours to melt). Close the jar's lid well.
![Album image #86 Album image #86](/albums/img/0/5/0/1194050-27826-58-720.jpg)
Once the silicone dries and the bits of the trees have melted, I carefully remove the original piece from the resulting mold (sometimes silicone remains stuck to the piece) and pour the melted plastic into it. When it dries, it tends to shrink on the outside (I guess due to solvent evaporation), but the shape of the mold keeps it.
![Album image #87 Album image #87](/albums/img/0/5/1/1194051-27826-71-720.jpg)
Flash usually come out, but they are very easily removed with the blade and with sandpaper, since the plastic is somewhat soft at first, but it hardens completely over the days (I suppose it will be when the solvent has completely evaporated).
![Album image #88 Album image #88](/albums/img/0/5/2/1194052-27826-96-720.jpg)
I cut the hypodermic needles to the necessary size, which will replace the plastic cannons. As the muzzle are diagonal in the original model, I have taken advantage of the inclination that the standard needles bring, but sanding the edge a bit.
![Album image #89 Album image #89](/albums/img/0/5/3/1194053-27826-72-pristine.jpg)
Cannon muzzle are diagonal.
![Album image #90 Album image #90](/albums/img/5/3/3/296533-27826-32-pristine.jpg)
This could be the end result, but there is still a few work ahead.
![Album image #91 Album image #91](/albums/img/5/9/2/1194592-27826-30-720.jpg)
The copied part may have bubbles, but this is fixed with putty and sandpaper.
![Album image #92 Album image #92](/albums/img/5/9/3/1194593-27826-25-720.jpg)
Finished barrel fairings. The cannons will be placed later, after painting the aircraft's belly.
![Album image #93 Album image #93](/albums/img/6/1/7/1194617-27826-34-720.jpg)
The Matchbox fuel tanks don't have the fins, so I make them out of metal sheet.
![Album image #94 Album image #94](/albums/img/6/1/6/1194616-27826-16-pristine.jpg)
Nor do they have those longitudinal reliefs of the lower part.
![Album image #95 Album image #95](/albums/img/5/3/4/296534-27826-23-pristine.jpg)
The longitudinal reliefs of the lower part are made with staples cut.
![Album image #96 Album image #96](/albums/img/6/1/8/1194618-27826-17-720.jpg)
Masking the cockpit and applying a previous coat with the paint used for the interior.
![Album image #97 Album image #97](/albums/img/5/3/5/296535-27826-76-pristine.jpg)
After placing small antennas or probes and making some small adjustments, I paint the bottom of the plane with Mr. Hobby H-315
![Album image #98 Album image #98](/albums/img/6/1/9/1194619-27826-29-720.jpg)
Masking the lower part to paint the upper part later.
![Album image #99 Album image #99](/albums/img/6/2/0/1194620-27826-91-720.jpg)
Masking the lower part to paint the upper part later.
![Album image #100 Album image #100](/albums/img/6/3/2/1194632-27826-12-720.jpg)
First I apply Mr. Hobby H-401 Dark Gray.
![Album image #101 Album image #101](/albums/img/5/3/6/296536-27826-43-pristine.jpg)
Then I apply Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black to the inside of panels.
![Album image #102 Album image #102](/albums/img/6/3/9/1194639-27826-73-720.jpg)
Then I apply Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black to the inside of panels.
![Album image #103 Album image #103](/albums/img/6/5/0/1194650-27826-45-720.jpg)
To mask I tried with paper to cover books, because being transparent you can see where to make the lines to cut later and because this could be a method to save masking tape.
![Album image #104 Album image #104](/albums/img/6/6/1/1194661-27826-94-720.jpg)
After the masking, I apply a layer of sand color so that it catches the yellow that I will apply later.
![Album image #105 Album image #105](/albums/img/5/3/7/296537-27826-30-pristine.jpg)
And later I use the yellow H329 from Mr. Hobby (several layers until well covered).
![Album image #106 Album image #106](/albums/img/6/9/2/1194692-27826-94-720.jpg)
Upper masks removed. Paint flaws need to be corrected.
![Album image #107 Album image #107](/albums/img/5/3/8/296538-27826-96-pristine.jpg)
Upper masks removed. Paint flaws need to be corrected.
![Album image #108 Album image #108](/albums/img/6/9/6/1194696-27826-11-720.jpg)
Upper masks removed. Paint flaws need to be corrected.
![Album image #109 Album image #109](/albums/img/6/9/7/1194697-27826-96-720.jpg)
Upper masks removed. Paint flaws need to be corrected.
![Album image #110 Album image #110](/albums/img/6/0/6/1196606-27826-36-720.jpg)
When I started building this kit I saw this diecast in a famous swiss toy store holding, in Geneva.
![Album image #111 Album image #111](/albums/img/6/0/7/1196607-27826-58-720.jpg)
When I started building this kit I saw this diecast in a famous swiss toy store holding, in Geneva.
Yorumlar
84 8 December 2016, 19:16
![](/profiles/img/27826-126-s.jpg)
Thank you very much.
About the model kit:
Matchbox Hunter T.Mk.7/Mk.F.6 kit with scratch pieces and some spare parts from other kits.
Decals will be made with laser printer.
10 December 2016, 11:31
![](/profiles/img/21096-573-s.jpg)
laser color printer? i been thinking on getting one for some time.... have you done those decals with it before?
3 December 2017, 09:45
![](/profiles/img/27826-126-s.jpg)
Hi Spanjaard, I already have them printed. They have been made by a graphic designer who makes them by order in a high quality laser color printer.
3 December 2017, 19:01
![](/profiles/img/21096-573-s.jpg)
ok, not the kind of printer you expect to have at home, right? 🙁 well, we will need to keep going to print services 🙂
3 December 2017, 21:09
![](/profiles/img/11586-s.jpg)
very interesting job on your matchbox hunter . I have always liked matchbox
3 December 2017, 22:29
![](/profiles/img/27826-126-s.jpg)
Thank you John. Unfortunately I have to repeat the painting, because the yellow part is rough.
9 December 2017, 19:06
![](/profiles/img/42610-971-s.jpg)
Looks like Matchbox still offers a lot of fun to us! Thanks for presenting it!
30 March 2022, 19:45
![](/profiles/img/49836-796-s.jpg)
Hi Cuajete, this is looking REALLY nice. Admiring the work you're completing on this kit. Following with great interest 🙂 👍
1 April 2022, 09:13
![](/profiles/img/27826-126-s.jpg)
Łukasz, Guy, Ben, Lena, Daniel, Bart, Mirko and Neil... Thank you very much. Your words are very much appreciated and motivating. And many thanks too for the likes to all mates.
I have uploaded more photos with comments to show a complete progress of everything I have done from the beginning until now. I invite everyone who has seen the few photos up to now to see the album again.
1 April 2022, 10:01
![](/profiles/img/21096-573-s.jpg)
and what a pleasure to do. beautiful scratch build skills at play. fantastic.
1 April 2022, 10:21
![](/profiles/img/29327-195-s.png)
Very nice, Cuajete, exactly my prey-pattern. Impressive what you make out of this ancient kit!
1 April 2022, 15:38
![](/profiles/img/73194-710-s.jpg)
Fantastic job, makes this build log a really enjoyable one! Your comments on pic 23 made my day ;D
1 April 2022, 17:24
![](/profiles/img/27826-126-s.jpg)
Spanjaard, Robert, Thomas Kolb, Thomas T, David... Many thanks for your kind comments and nice words.
All mates are being a fantastic audience 🙂
2 April 2022, 18:16
![](/profiles/img/23938-707-s.jpg)
Very nice work on a what looks like a challenging kit mate. Not sure how I missed this so far, and glad it's off the you-know-what shelf 😉
13 April 2022, 23:03
![](/profiles/img/31412-245-s.jpg)
Looks very good so far! Great camo scheme. Your build shows that with a little love old kits are always usable and buildable.
15 April 2022, 12:30
![](/profiles/img/27826-126-s.jpg)
I'm impressed by your encouraging and motivating words, Alec, Patryk and Thomas. Thank you very much colleagues!
16 April 2022, 17:40
![](/profiles/img/27826-126-s.jpg)
Oh Andy, you're very kind... Is there a Matchbox GB now?
Thanks for your comment 🙂 👍
11 August 2022, 17:33
![](/profiles/img/27826-126-s.jpg)
It seems so, Andy. I hope he can pick up the project before the GB ends. I have several projects stopped for not being able to attend to them now, such as the DH.88 or the U-2. But they will all come to an end, sooner or later.
The last thing I did was strip the paint to repaint due to the harsh orange peel effect the yellow had when I put on the sand colored base coat. It is not appreciated in the pics, but that was not pleasing to the eye.
Simon, thanks for your comment 🙂
11 August 2022, 18:33
![](/profiles/img/36121-874-s.jpg)
I looked through the whole project Cuajete- wow, some scratch building going off there! Masterful.
11 August 2022, 19:05
![](/profiles/img/27826-126-s.jpg)
Thank you so much, Andy.
It was going to be a quick OOB build at first, but I started adding a few things until it finally made life difficult for me, 😄
11 August 2022, 19:56
![](/profiles/img/81643-264-s.jpg)
A real master class! Thanks for the detail on how to mold a needed part... I intend to try it on at least a couple projects. Striking paint scheme, a real standout!
22 August 2022, 04:13
![](/profiles/img/27826-126-s.jpg)
Many thanks my friends!
I'm heavily impressed by your responses mates, thank you so much for these really appreciated comments!
Dean: Thank you so much. I'd like to see those projects when you start them 👍
Ronan: it is an honor to receive a comment from a scratch master like you. Thank you! 🙂
23 August 2022, 18:02
![](/profiles/img/65564-234-s.jpg)
Great work with the cockpit, the bays and the paint! Fantastic tutorial! Thanks a lot
3 January 2023, 08:32
![](/profiles/img/27826-126-s.jpg)
Wow! Thank you all so much gentlemen for your nice and warm words.
Very much appreciated 👍
3 January 2023, 20:48
![](/profiles/img/70141-472-s.jpg)
She's a real beaut Cuajete☺️, great scheme and beautiful work on the instrument panel! My compliments!
9 April, 23:28
![](/profiles/img/27826-126-s.jpg)
Dick and Oleg, thank you so much. Your words are very motivating. Your projects are so great!
Thanks to the mates for your likes.
16 April, 19:05
Album info
Matchbox Hunter T.Mk.7/Mk.F.6 kit with scratch pieces and some spare parts from other kits.
Decals will be made with laser printer.