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ModelSvit 1:72
Patrick Boogieпозначив цей предмет для обміну/продажу
25 September, 11:23
Patrick BoogieGuten Tag in die Schweiz.
Er ist erhältlich.
Gezahlt wird mit paypal friends.
Ich versende mit DHL mit Sendungsverfolgung.
Sollte etwas mit dem Paket passieren (Verlust, Defekt), ich übernehme keine Verantwortung. es gibt kein Geld zurück.
DHL Preis ist allerdings sehr hoch in die Schweiz, 27€
Gruß Patrick
15 October, 15:57
Pierre-Laurent Magninhello alors ok pour moi sa 27euro sa va de la suis pour l'Europe sa tourne de 25 à 45 FRS
15 October, 16:04
David Hдодав новий фотоальбом.
3 зображення
This is not all it's cracked up to be …
Cracking across the tail decals
15 October, 15:59
Robert H.додав новий фотоальбом.
57 11 October, 17:11
NeulingExcellent work. Inspiring details to see here. Reason to keep on modelling! 🙂
12 October, 09:00
Marcin DudekHolly smokes, I can't takę my eyes off all those cool details. Greate job 👏
13 October, 09:45
Mike SiemersGreat job, love the Pin-up in the back of the turret. Fantastic detail.
13 October, 14:15
AWAAAAAAзавершив цей предмет
Aircraft Weapons: VIII US Air-to-Air Missiles & Jamming Pods
Hasegawa 1:72
35113 (X72-13) 2011 Нова прес-форма Багато тем (6)15 October, 15:55
Janik Staubдодав новий фотоальбом.
11 15 October, 03:19
NeulingI like the "Matsch" 🙂 In my opinion the heavy tank could have sunk in a little bit deeper.
15 October, 09:10
Doubtingmangoдодав новий фотоальбом.
48 29 August, 17:57
DoubtingmangoSo I just finished this little Italian job. The decals came out with a lot of the edges showing, which then got a lot worse when I added some washes. I used Microset on the decals, and then sealed them with Tamiya semi-gloss before the washes, but it actually looks like the washes got under the decals. Any thoughts?
29 August, 18:04
Bogicevic VladimirIt looks like you haven't spray gloss coat before you applied decals. Or decals didn't set well. There are two solutions. One is lacquer thinner. Put the thinner with fine brush in dots over the place where you have silvering. Thinner should destroy the film. If it raises paint under, just leave it, it will settle back. Important thing here is that, once you applied thinner, you shouldn't touch decal for something like 20 minutes, at least. Second way is mix of sugar and water, half - half. You make a hole with a needle on the decal, than you put mix on the top. It should enter in the space between decal and paint and, when drayed, make a gloss film in between them which will act as a gloss under the decal. Wipe excess mix with wet cloath and you are done.
29 August, 18:28
Mr JamesHow annoying. I've never heard of the sugar water trick from Bogicevic. I'll be interested if this works. If the thinner, sugar trick fails, what else can you do but use a scalpel to cut around them, since you've sealed it,
29 August, 19:05
DoubtingmangoThanks mates! I believe Bogicevic is right. I think I did fail to gloss coat before the decals. I think I'll try the sugar water first
30 August, 10:42
Bogicevic VladimirOk. There are few small tings I should add then. Heat the water first, when hot it will disolve sugar beter and apply it while it's still warm, it will have more viscosity. Make small hole or slice with modeling knife, put few drops of mix on the top and let it dry. You will see emidiatly if it's penatrating. When dry, wipe carefully excess mix with moist cloth. Repeat where neaded. I know it sounds ridiculous, but it worked for me many times.
30 August, 11:11
DoubtingmangoThanks Bogicevic! I'll give it a shot. If it doesn't work I'll try the lacquer thinner technique. I love this site!
30 August, 11:26
Mark SherwoodWhere the *uck's this been hiding. Very nice build Mr Mango and I hope the decal solution from Bogicevic work's out🤞
31 August, 21:31
DoubtingmangoThanks Mark! So I punched some holes in the decals and applied the warm sugar water, but unfortunately it did not seem to make a noticeable difference. I decided my best shot was to just grab the scalpel and remove the decals, which was very easy. Bogicevic said the solution would get under the decals! I have successfully applied new decals, and my little Italian job is now base-worthy. New pics to come.
31 August, 23:14
Bogicevic VladimirWell, you find a solution, which is the most important thing. I can not know why something that worked for me many times does not work for you in this case. Maybe that what I think is silvering is residual glue from decal paper. Who knows... Anyway, good luck with your project.
31 August, 23:56
JohnAll's well that ends well. 👍 Mango, your builds have me hankering to do some armor but I still have commitments to do a couple more a/c. When I do get a chance, part of me wants to start small with a Pz IV, but another part says go for broke and do a Maus!
1 September, 01:33
DoubtingmangoAs promised, new pics of the new decals have been added, along with pics of the work I have started on the base. Once again, thank you for the help Bogicevic!
12 September, 15:01
DoubtingmangoMore work on the base. Just need to paint up the base and add foliage
13 September, 22:54
DoubtingmangoThank you all! The palm tree is badass, but I can only take credit for the placement. I got it off an Ebay seller from Thailand, Thannan Diorama Exporters. Not cheap, but I had to get one to see if they were as good as they look. They are! Also need to give a shout out to Value Gear for much of the stowage.
3 October, 17:34
Landlubber MikeWow, this is fantastic!! The model and the base looks amazing, but that palm tree really pulls it all together in an extra special way. Well done!
3 October, 20:57
Bobby Thumbsaww man I thought you was a next level tree maker - i was gonna hit you up for hints
4 October, 05:02
Clair GreenwoodI sure hope one day my models would look half as good as your work sir 🙂
4 October, 15:20
Ben MI enjoyed the discussion of fixing decal stuff as decals are always hard for me. One thing to add, I have been adding tamiya gloss clear (X-22) to my paint mixtures when I paint tanks. This gives the finish a slightly more glossy surface and I find I can do decals and pinwashes/oil washes without a separate gloss coat, and I do a flat coat after to dull the surface. I first tried this on my M3 Lee build. I should take better pics of that one. I think I got the idea indirectly from uncle nightshift (someone told me it was in one of his videos, didn't see it myself). I don't get joy from spraying endless coats of clear on models, I find it's hard to get all the nooks and crannies, so mixing the clear with the color coat makes it easier to see what I'm doing. Maybe an idea for the future.
That's a cool little Italian tank and the diorama is great as well! Thanks for sharing.
15 October, 14:40
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