Стрічка новин
Ogre-Trombone
додав новий фотоальбом.
додав новий фотоальбом.
21 27 August, 02:37
Skyhiker
Please let us know when you upload new photos. I don't want to miss anything.
Please let us know when you upload new photos. I don't want to miss anything.
21 September, 04:44
Ogre-Trombone
I found some time to work on these kits, so here are some new photos. Thanks for following!
I found some time to work on these kits, so here are some new photos. Thanks for following!
22 September, 07:31
Nicolas
The instruction isn't mentioning the stand at all. As the torpedo is under the COG I would try to fix it to the torpedo.
Very nice progres so far. 👍
The instruction isn't mentioning the stand at all. As the torpedo is under the COG I would try to fix it to the torpedo.
Very nice progres so far. 👍
22 September, 07:39
Ogre-Trombone
Leaning that way, Nicolas. I don't like it, but that's probably what I'll need to do.
Leaning that way, Nicolas. I don't like it, but that's probably what I'll need to do.
22 September, 19:09
Mr D
Nice model 👌
Was the Devastator similar to the Dauntless??
Like the subject....will be watching 😃👍
Nice model 👌
Was the Devastator similar to the Dauntless??
Like the subject....will be watching 😃👍
22 September, 19:25
Ogre-Trombone
@Mr D, the Devastator was a pre-War torpedo bomber that was one of the most advanced aircraft of its time. Unfortunately. it was already obsolete at the start of the war. It was slow and underpowered, and early-War tactics left its crews extremely vulnerable.
@Mr D, the Devastator was a pre-War torpedo bomber that was one of the most advanced aircraft of its time. Unfortunately. it was already obsolete at the start of the war. It was slow and underpowered, and early-War tactics left its crews extremely vulnerable.
24 September, 13:49
Skyhiker
The Douglas TBD Devastator, was the U.S. Navy's main torpedo bomber. It was introduced in 1935, but was obsolete by 1939. They were replaced with the Grumman TBF Avenger.
The Douglas TBD Devastator, was the U.S. Navy's main torpedo bomber. It was introduced in 1935, but was obsolete by 1939. They were replaced with the Grumman TBF Avenger.
24 September, 16:09
Mr D
Thanks for the info
Ogre & Skyhiker 👍👍
I didn't know much about them, the pre-war yellow wings are smart scheme 👌
Thanks for the info
Ogre & Skyhiker 👍👍
I didn't know much about them, the pre-war yellow wings are smart scheme 👌
24 September, 19:20
Mr D
Both coming along really nicely now, the flap lines look a lot better now.
Looking like all the build updates.
Good luck with next steps 👌😁👍👍
Both coming along really nicely now, the flap lines look a lot better now.
Looking like all the build updates.
Good luck with next steps 👌😁👍👍
30 September, 16:33
Lorraine Lin
додав новий фотоальбом.
додав новий фотоальбом.
112 26 August, 05:51
Robert Podkoński
Wow! This is going to be a true masterpiece... Watching with pleasure and interest!
Wow! This is going to be a true masterpiece... Watching with pleasure and interest!
26 August, 05:55
Robert Podkoński
Makes me wonder, what happens next... You've managed this skeleton kit absolutely perfectly. Chapeau bas!
Makes me wonder, what happens next... You've managed this skeleton kit absolutely perfectly. Chapeau bas!
16 September, 17:10
tyu
Nice, VERY nice! How did you attach the metal parts: glueing or soldering? Very clean build, impressive1
Nice, VERY nice! How did you attach the metal parts: glueing or soldering? Very clean build, impressive1
16 September, 18:07
CaptGPF
Here's a dumb question - how do you keep the paint from chipping off of the PE? I tried spraying Mr Surfacer on it, prior to painting, but it still chips very easily.
Here's a dumb question - how do you keep the paint from chipping off of the PE? I tried spraying Mr Surfacer on it, prior to painting, but it still chips very easily.
16 September, 18:11
Lorraine Lin
Thank you everyone!
@Michael Kohl, this kits are from Jasmine Model. The PEs are great, while the instructions a little bit difficult to understand.
@tyu, I used instant adhesive to glue them together. Some small parts, I used UV glue.
@CaptGPF, I used Mr. Color C series to paint it directly after assembly, keep the paint as thin as possible. But yes, it still chips easily, try not to touch it : )
Thank you everyone!
@Michael Kohl, this kits are from Jasmine Model. The PEs are great, while the instructions a little bit difficult to understand.
@tyu, I used instant adhesive to glue them together. Some small parts, I used UV glue.
@CaptGPF, I used Mr. Color C series to paint it directly after assembly, keep the paint as thin as possible. But yes, it still chips easily, try not to touch it : )
17 September, 01:58
bughunter
Great project!
As I build some Stripdown aircraft already I thought about this one too, but the kit is hard to get here and pricey so it was only an idea.
@CaptGPF You can apply Mr.MetalPrimer from Gunze first. It is a acrylic clear coat which hardens to a thin robust layer even if applied with a brush. I prefer the glass bottle over the rattle can.
SF-242 Mr. Metal Primer, Mr.COLOR , Lacquer, 40ml
Great project!
As I build some Stripdown aircraft already I thought about this one too, but the kit is hard to get here and pricey so it was only an idea.
@CaptGPF You can apply Mr.MetalPrimer from Gunze first. It is a acrylic clear coat which hardens to a thin robust layer even if applied with a brush. I prefer the glass bottle over the rattle can.
SF-242 Mr. Metal Primer, Mr.COLOR , Lacquer, 40ml
17 September, 14:19
Michael Kohl
I have used Mr Metal Primer for a while too with satisfying results. Paint adheres much better.
I have used Mr Metal Primer for a while too with satisfying results. Paint adheres much better.
17 September, 17:31
Michael Kohl
Copper foil plating and going for a french version. This is getting better every day. 🙂
Copper foil plating and going for a french version. This is getting better every day. 🙂
17 September, 17:34
bughunter
There is a newer version with an additional "-R" on the name, I don't know what was changed. I still use the original one.
Tamiya has also a product for this (have not tried it): 204 Metal Primer, Tamiya Gloss, Enamel, 40ml
There is a newer version with an additional "-R" on the name, I don't know what was changed. I still use the original one.
Tamiya has also a product for this (have not tried it): 204 Metal Primer, Tamiya Gloss, Enamel, 40ml
17 September, 19:24
Mr D
Now Lorraine....That is dedication to accuracy 😲.
This is why the Chinese were making Ming vases.. while the rest of the world made clay pots 🤣.
Very talented n clever 💯%
Now Lorraine....That is dedication to accuracy 😲.
This is why the Chinese were making Ming vases.. while the rest of the world made clay pots 🤣.
Very talented n clever 💯%
17 September, 19:55
Lorraine Lin
Thank you Mates!
@skyhiker, It is 0.02mm cooper foil, and it needs to be annealed first (>650 degree C, a cigar lighter or gas cooker is good enough.)
@Micheal and bughunter, thank you for the suggestion, I just ordered Mr. Metal Primer-R.
Thank you Mates!
@skyhiker, It is 0.02mm cooper foil, and it needs to be annealed first (>650 degree C, a cigar lighter or gas cooker is good enough.)
@Micheal and bughunter, thank you for the suggestion, I just ordered Mr. Metal Primer-R.
18 September, 02:30
Lorraine Lin
@bughunter, I just received the new "-R" version. The new label says "improved transparency".
@bughunter, I just received the new "-R" version. The new label says "improved transparency".
19 September, 10:44
Skyhiker
The rivets on the copper look a bit strange because they are not in alignment with the plane's ribs. On a real aircraft wouldn't they be?
The rivets on the copper look a bit strange because they are not in alignment with the plane's ribs. On a real aircraft wouldn't they be?
19 September, 11:07
Lorraine Lin
@skyhiker, thank you for the comment. This is to verify my idea, I am making a new skin. And will try to make the rivets to align with the ribs. Thank you again.
@skyhiker, thank you for the comment. This is to verify my idea, I am making a new skin. And will try to make the rivets to align with the ribs. Thank you again.
19 September, 11:23
bughunter
Thank you for the info!
I hope it still sticks to metal like the original.
Thank you for the info!
I hope it still sticks to metal like the original.
19 September, 11:42
bughunter
Wnat to mention another usage:
The Mr.MetalPrimer can also be used, if the metal should not be painted. It protects the metal surface and prevents tarnishing and oxidation over time.
Wnat to mention another usage:
The Mr.MetalPrimer can also be used, if the metal should not be painted. It protects the metal surface and prevents tarnishing and oxidation over time.
19 September, 11:49
Alexander Grivonev
Additionally to the metal primer you can treat your PE parts with a fiberglass eraser pen beforehand. It cleans the metal from the oxide layers and roughens it up just a tiny amount to create perfect conditions for paint adhesion.
Additionally to the metal primer you can treat your PE parts with a fiberglass eraser pen beforehand. It cleans the metal from the oxide layers and roughens it up just a tiny amount to create perfect conditions for paint adhesion.
19 September, 13:13
CaptGPF
Fantastic progress! It's a pity that the beautiful framing is covered up. Did you press the foil against the kit to get the detailing?
Fantastic progress! It's a pity that the beautiful framing is covered up. Did you press the foil against the kit to get the detailing?
19 September, 15:34
Kesa Tiho
I cant put my finger on it but it seems too perfect. Too good to be true
I cant put my finger on it but it seems too perfect. Too good to be true
19 September, 17:16
Robert Podkoński
If you look closer, you will spot a few imperfections, Kesa (both on the side of the Jasmine model kit, and in the assembly). Notwithstanding, is a fantastic piece of workmanship.
If you look closer, you will spot a few imperfections, Kesa (both on the side of the Jasmine model kit, and in the assembly). Notwithstanding, is a fantastic piece of workmanship.
19 September, 17:26
Alexander Grivonev
I agree with Robert, everything looks authentic and not "doctored". I absolutely do not want to take away from Lorraine's craftsmanship, but there is nothing "too good to be true" about this. Great idea, very well executed, just fantastic craftsmanship. Every step is plausible and well documented and I don't even know how or why you would fake something like this 😄
I agree with Robert, everything looks authentic and not "doctored". I absolutely do not want to take away from Lorraine's craftsmanship, but there is nothing "too good to be true" about this. Great idea, very well executed, just fantastic craftsmanship. Every step is plausible and well documented and I don't even know how or why you would fake something like this 😄
19 September, 17:53
Skyhiker
Well for 300 Euros per kit some people might have to fake it. That's a lot of money.
Well for 300 Euros per kit some people might have to fake it. That's a lot of money.
19 September, 18:14
Alexander Grivonev
but faked HOW is what I wonder about. CGI? Yeah, it looks impressive, but it is still a kit. You cut the parts out, you assemble them and you paint the whole thing, no black magic to it really. It would be much more difficult to "fake" it imho
but faked HOW is what I wonder about. CGI? Yeah, it looks impressive, but it is still a kit. You cut the parts out, you assemble them and you paint the whole thing, no black magic to it really. It would be much more difficult to "fake" it imho
19 September, 18:24
bughunter
@Skyhiker Do you mean 300€ for the whole project, with the Eduard kits and accesories?
The Jasmine Hellcat can be found from below 130€ from aliexpress (ok tax and co needs to be added) and around 150€ in ebay, but not 300! List price at Jasmin own shop is 169$
@Skyhiker Do you mean 300€ for the whole project, with the Eduard kits and accesories?
The Jasmine Hellcat can be found from below 130€ from aliexpress (ok tax and co needs to be added) and around 150€ in ebay, but not 300! List price at Jasmin own shop is 169$
19 September, 18:31
CaptGPF
@Kesa - if you think this is too perfect, wait till you see some of the other posters like Neuling, Mr James, Markus and Jörg (to name a few)- their stiff will also blow your mind!!!! However, Lorraine is definitely the God of PE!!!!!
@Kesa - if you think this is too perfect, wait till you see some of the other posters like Neuling, Mr James, Markus and Jörg (to name a few)- their stiff will also blow your mind!!!! However, Lorraine is definitely the God of PE!!!!!
19 September, 20:09
Kesa Tiho
@alexander grivionev i would say its just a pre built set but because of the WIP photos i cant :/
@alexander grivionev i would say its just a pre built set but because of the WIP photos i cant :/
19 September, 20:34
Kesa Tiho
I didnt mean my comment as an insult to her and her ability to build, paint etc builds. I just found her build oddly good
I didnt mean my comment as an insult to her and her ability to build, paint etc builds. I just found her build oddly good
19 September, 20:36
Mr D
Kesa, sometimes things can come across wrong way, so it's best to keep comment positive or just hold back... Everyone including yourself has nice experience here.
The site is a community forum and not competition ground.
There are people who are starting out ...brush painting over sticky fingerprint's.
Also there are amazingly talented artists like Lorraine here.
Everybody work n project is important to them, it's the enjoyment of the hobby above all, as you know for the nice work you have created yourself... Hopefully subject will move on now..🤣
Kesa, sometimes things can come across wrong way, so it's best to keep comment positive or just hold back... Everyone including yourself has nice experience here.
The site is a community forum and not competition ground.
There are people who are starting out ...brush painting over sticky fingerprint's.
Also there are amazingly talented artists like Lorraine here.
Everybody work n project is important to them, it's the enjoyment of the hobby above all, as you know for the nice work you have created yourself... Hopefully subject will move on now..🤣
19 September, 22:08
Lorraine Lin
I believe that the friends in this community enjoy the process of building models, the satisfaction of removing the painting masks, and the interaction and sharing with mates here. Rather than showing off a pre-built model. I joined this community a little over a month ago, and I've seen many excellent works here, learned a lot of building techniques, and most importantly, had the opportunity to communicate with mates from all over the world. I feel connected with everyone, and I will continue to complete this project. Thank you for all your comments and support.
I believe that the friends in this community enjoy the process of building models, the satisfaction of removing the painting masks, and the interaction and sharing with mates here. Rather than showing off a pre-built model. I joined this community a little over a month ago, and I've seen many excellent works here, learned a lot of building techniques, and most importantly, had the opportunity to communicate with mates from all over the world. I feel connected with everyone, and I will continue to complete this project. Thank you for all your comments and support.
20 September, 08:36
Lorraine Lin
@CaptGPF, yes, I press the copper foil against the kits to get the shape and details. I don't know "rubbing" is the right word the describe the process. And I plan to cover half of the fuselage. So it is called "cut away": )
@CaptGPF, yes, I press the copper foil against the kits to get the shape and details. I don't know "rubbing" is the right word the describe the process. And I plan to cover half of the fuselage. So it is called "cut away": )
20 September, 08:54
Lorraine Lin
I applied Mr. Metal Primer-R as mates suggested here, it works well. The only thing is the surface is a little bit sticky even after 12 hrs. I guess this is how it prevents the painting from chipping.
I applied Mr. Metal Primer-R as mates suggested here, it works well. The only thing is the surface is a little bit sticky even after 12 hrs. I guess this is how it prevents the painting from chipping.
20 September, 09:14
Kesa Tiho
@lorraine i can see, i feel honoured to have one of my builds be followed by a skillful builder like you
@lorraine i can see, i feel honoured to have one of my builds be followed by a skillful builder like you
20 September, 09:48
CaptGPF
@Kesa - I don't think anyone took your post as inflammatory or starting a war - it's nice having conversations like this - and I think it's the best compliment once can receive when someone says "it looks too good". Be yourself!
@Kesa - I don't think anyone took your post as inflammatory or starting a war - it's nice having conversations like this - and I think it's the best compliment once can receive when someone says "it looks too good". Be yourself!
20 September, 14:23
Mr D
Wander if the 🧸 bear gets sticky paws gluing all that PE together .... they make a talented team there pair..🤣
Coming on really well Lorraine.... interesting to see a different technique 🐻✌️
Wander if the 🧸 bear gets sticky paws gluing all that PE together .... they make a talented team there pair..🤣
Coming on really well Lorraine.... interesting to see a different technique 🐻✌️
20 September, 20:44
Ben M
Very creative modeling. I enjoy seeing someone build something to this high of a standard as well as trying new things.
Very creative modeling. I enjoy seeing someone build something to this high of a standard as well as trying new things.
21 September, 04:35
Lorraine Lin
Thank you Mates!
@Mr D, haha, actually she is a lovely fox, Lina Bell. My favorite friend in Disney Land 😄 I built a helicopter for her.
[img1]
Thank you Mates!
@Mr D, haha, actually she is a lovely fox, Lina Bell. My favorite friend in Disney Land 😄 I built a helicopter for her.
[img1]
21 September, 11:57
Mr D
😁 your right a 🦊 fox got the pointy ears..fox's need to get about too 🤣
Really good...👍👍
😁 your right a 🦊 fox got the pointy ears..fox's need to get about too 🤣
Really good...👍👍
21 September, 15:15
Mr D
Propeller looking 👍 nice.
Care you planning to cover it all ??
Or have some of the model skeletal for a display-cutaway effect??
Propeller looking 👍 nice.
Care you planning to cover it all ??
Or have some of the model skeletal for a display-cutaway effect??
28 September, 14:07
Lorraine Lin
Thank you Mate!
Robert and Mr D, I will not cover it all, maybe some part of the wing. Will leave it as cutaway effect.
Thank you Mate!
Robert and Mr D, I will not cover it all, maybe some part of the wing. Will leave it as cutaway effect.
28 September, 14:59
Greg Baker
This MUST be left at least partially as a cutaway. Would be a crime to cover up all that intricate detail!
This MUST be left at least partially as a cutaway. Would be a crime to cover up all that intricate detail!
29 September, 16:21
Lorraine Lin
Haha Greg, will not cover it all. Actually the skin is also removable as I attached it to the fuselage with TAMIYA craft bond.
Haha Greg, will not cover it all. Actually the skin is also removable as I attached it to the fuselage with TAMIYA craft bond.
30 September, 05:31
Ray Denison
хоче цей предмет
хоче цей предмет
Bat Signal to match Polar Lights 1966 Batmobile other scales available on request
Hendie's Scale Parts 1:25
BMB25-1 2024 Нова прес-форма 30 September, 16:27
Kate Ward
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додав новий фотоальбом.
3 29 September, 22:20
Kate Ward
If I do them in batches of 8 I need 11 batches for each side. That helps me keep count.
If I do them in batches of 8 I need 11 batches for each side. That helps me keep count.
29 September, 22:21
Kate Ward
Oh good, peer pressure, that'll keep me from slacking off. ^_^ I'm up to six 8-link sections of track so far, 16 to go. I had a panic moment where I was afraid I'd bought the wrong tracks, so the first thing I assembled from the Trumpeter kit proper was the sprocket wheels. And whew they do fit! Got a start on the lower hull too before bedtime.
Oh good, peer pressure, that'll keep me from slacking off. ^_^ I'm up to six 8-link sections of track so far, 16 to go. I had a panic moment where I was afraid I'd bought the wrong tracks, so the first thing I assembled from the Trumpeter kit proper was the sprocket wheels. And whew they do fit! Got a start on the lower hull too before bedtime.
30 September, 03:02
Ben M
I've been curious about metal tracks. I find the plastic individual links hard to work with but maybe I just need more practice.
I've been curious about metal tracks. I find the plastic individual links hard to work with but maybe I just need more practice.
30 September, 14:37
Rudy Poseika
позначив цей предмет як замовлений
позначив цей предмет як замовлений
PT-13/N2S-3 PT-17/N2S-5 Kaydet Primary Trainer for Revell
Starfighter Decals 1:72
72-158 2018 Нова прес-форма 30 September, 16:24
Rando
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додав новий фотоальбом.
30 September, 16:23
Joseph Lancaster
хоче цей предмет
хоче цей предмет
Mirage F1CR 100 ans de la BR11 "la Cocotte"
FFSMC Productions 1:72
P_72-25 (P_72-025) 2015 Нова прес-форма 30 September, 16:23
Paul Gallagher
додав новий фотоальбом.
додав новий фотоальбом.
22 зображення
Gloster Meteor FR.9Новий: 30 September, 15:29 1:72
Gloster Meteor FR.9 VZ603/W, No.8 Squadron Royal Air Force, Sharjah, Trucial States, January 1958
Проект: Gloster Meteor FR.9
17 23 September, 09:01
Joseph Lancaster
хоче цей предмет
хоче цей предмет
Dassault Mirage 2000-5 Of the world Qatar, Greece, Taiwan
Berna Decals 1:72
BD 72-72 (BD72-72) 2013 Нова прес-форма 30 September, 16:22
Jakko
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61 зображення
Sherman BARVНовий: 30 September, 13:52 1:35
The tracks were painted with a wash of dark red-brown paint over the grey, then drybrushed with a medium metallic colour...
Проект: Sherman BARV, D-Day
34 2 July, 20:50
gorby
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
5 July, 06:33
Jakko
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
5 July, 08:53
Jakko
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
9 July, 08:59
Ben M
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
9 July, 11:58
Mr D
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
9 July, 13:30
Jakko
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
9 July, 17:09
Mr D
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
11 July, 12:55
Jakko
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
11 July, 17:41
Robert Podkoński
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
16 July, 15:17
Jakko
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
16 July, 17:21
Mr D
Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍
Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍
25 July, 21:06
Jakko
Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.
Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.
26 July, 08:57
Ben M
Looks great, what an interesting subject. I enjoy your in progress photos.
My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
Looks great, what an interesting subject. I enjoy your in progress photos.
My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
30 September, 16:06
Mr D
Hi Jakko👋
Very nice... great job, thanks for the uploads....be interesting to watch progress.
Like it 😁👍👍
Hi Jakko👋
Very nice... great job, thanks for the uploads....be interesting to watch progress.
Like it 😁👍👍
30 September, 16:20
Jon Bryon
додав новий фотоальбом.
додав новий фотоальбом.
13 30 September, 14:07
Rando
wow! that's spectacular. unique appearance too with those metallic spinner and nose caps
wow! that's spectacular. unique appearance too with those metallic spinner and nose caps
30 September, 15:34
Alexander Grivonev
Wow, a real eye catcher with those silver hubs. Clean work and paintjob, but also great subtle weathering 👍
Wow, a real eye catcher with those silver hubs. Clean work and paintjob, but also great subtle weathering 👍
30 September, 16:20
Chris B
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завершив цей предмет
US 37mm M6 gun barrel (Stuart, Grant/Lee, Locust, M6, Greyhound, Staghound and more)
Master 1:35
GM-35-029 2021 Нова прес-форма Багато тем (5)30 September, 16:14
RailgunMikoto
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завершив цей предмет
IJN
Fubuki-class Destroyer Type I kai Uranami (1941)Yamashita Hobby 1:700
020422 (NV10) 2019 Нові деталі 30 September, 16:13
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