StuG.IV (Late)
Коментарі
16 May 2013, 16:58
Aghis BarberopoulosPhoto 1 alternative title: In the beginning there was chaos...🙂
16 May 2013, 17:05
Mike KryzaI agree with Aghis! - And the next question is - how many mistakes were hidden in the instruction sheet? -😉
16 May 2013, 17:13
Albi HitzOh yes! (Not only in the beginning 😉 (Dragon instructions!!!)
Its almost the same with the Dragon Pz. III or IV kits .... a lot of parts where not used.
16 May 2013, 17:14
Albi Hitz@ Mike ... you don't need to search the mistakes ... they will come on step 1 or 2 or ... latest on step 3 😉
16 May 2013, 17:38
Mike KryzaYes, Albi I know this phenomenon of the DML-Instructions - surely no kits for beginners. But I'm looking with interset on your upcoming StuG. Will surely become a beauty!
16 May 2013, 17:53
Albi Hitz@ Mike: I agree with you. DML are very good, high detailed kits. Nothing for beginners. They should double check they're instruction sheet and it would be perfect (almost).
Thank you for the compliment. Pressure up! 😉 I give my best ...
@ Kim: Indeed. A lot of plastic, and a lot of it is surplus. Thank you for your words and I hope I can show you more of this Stug IV in the next few days ...
16 May 2013, 23:15
Heico van der HeideNice work. A lot of parts also, like we are used to from Dragon. That interior just screams for an open hatch doens't it😉
20 May 2013, 15:24
Albi HitzThank you mates.
@ Heico: No all hatches closed 😉 ... No, i will open the top hatches. And the roof will be removable (even if there is not the full interior ....)
20 May 2013, 16:29
james johnsonWatching, Albi....this exact kit is 2 builds down the road for me.....any heads ups on instruction mistakes would be most helpful! I'm not real big on modeling parts that won't be seen so I'll have to think about this one......right off a diorama comes to mind...
8 June 2013, 00:35
Maarten Kruizengai agree, where's my magnet, i want to make sure it's not real metal........
8 June 2013, 08:53
Albi Hitz@ james: no big deal with the interior if you close the hatches.
There was something wrong with the exhaust pipe. I cut i off because you can't see the small tube anyway!
mmm ... I think I'm getting used to the mistakes with Dragon instructions ... you should drill small holes for the spare track holders but i don't think its necessary.
The markings of the first "Schürzen-Blech" (front) was to low ... (you see it on photo 16)
8 June 2013, 16:21
Albi Hitz@ Eend and Maarten: Thank you guys ... i attempted to do something different ... 😉
(btw: Dragon made the "Schürzen" in real metal .... so the magnet-test would work as well 🙂
8 June 2013, 16:26
Albi HitzThank you Roy. I always try to develop my skills ...
on this buils i keep an eye on the "Schürzen" side armor ....
9 June 2013, 15:26
james johnsonNice job Albi! Are the mounting brackets for the Schurzen photo etch? (Pic 16)
9 June 2013, 15:29
Albi HitzHi James. Thank you. No in this kit the mounting brackets are made of plastic. the side armor is the usual dragon metal part.
9 June 2013, 15:33
Albi HitzHello mates ...
Thank you for your nice and motivating words. I'm happy you like my work.
I want to improve myself every time and your hints, fair comment are all a part of my projects.
Thank you guys.
21 June 2013, 18:01
EendAlbi, thank you for sharing your projects with us 🙂 it's because of people like you that keep me motivated to keep me building and improving my skills.
21 June 2013, 19:59
Albi HitzThank you very much Eend ... I feel honored about your words! I think all the good examples around keep the motivation high and thats one of the good point on scale modeling ... A lot of people share they're knowledge with others so everybody could benefit from each other. That helps everybody to keep the motivation high and try to improve the skills for the next project.
21 June 2013, 20:12
james johnsonVery Good Albi! Two questions: What paint did you use to get the base color? & What is your next project that I may look forward to?
22 June 2013, 12:48
Albi HitzThanks for your words James.
Usually i use the grey primer from Vallejo, sometimes i go with the grey Tamiya primer (it depend on my stash 😉 )
As "basecoat" for the metal parts i start using the acid solutions like the AK Interactive "Metal Brunishing" to avoid bare metal shining scratches.
After de base coat i use Vallejo Air color on my armor models.
My next projects are a russian Su-100 (its on hold because i made a big error (thanks Dragon for clear instructions!!) so I start a Panzer III from the Afrika Korps as the latest project.
After finishing my Mitsubishi "Raiden" i will start with the 1/32 Mitsubishi "Zero" ....
I hope you like watching the progress ... I feel honored about it and will try to do my best. Tanks.
22 June 2013, 14:21
james johnsonThat base color looks more like a Model Air Sand or Hemp rather than a dunkelgelb is why I ask......I like it!
Don't you just love Dragon instructions?
Tuned in.....working on an Airfix Beaver, 1/72 scale,...after that a JS 2
22 June 2013, 14:30
Albi Hitza relatively small difference between A Beaver and the JS 2 😉.
I'll take a seat ....
Talkin about base coat on german WWII armor:
After the base layer (primer) I use the Vallejo Dark Yellow right from the bottle an then i poor more and more white in it, to brighten up the more exposed areas.
I guess that is what happened very often to these colors they use (especially by the last years of the second world war).
No replacement, changing quality and no time for recovery ... But but its only speculation .... and to me it looks like "the real thing" ... 😉
22 June 2013, 16:28
