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![1:350 15 inch Barrels for Qn Elizabeth, Royal Sovereign, Roberts, Renown, Revenge, Admiral, Courageous, Erebus & Vanguard-classes (RB Model 350L26) 350L26](/products/img/4/5/0/226450-11104-28-t180.jpg)
15 inch Barrels for Qn Elizabeth, Royal Sovereign, Roberts, Renown, Revenge, Admiral, Courageous, Erebus & Vanguard-classes 381mm (15”) L/42 Mk I 8 pcs
RB Model 1:350
350L26 多主题 (9)20 August, 16:43
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添加了一个新相册
59 24 July, 18:53
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After a health problem, I stopped modelling for a short time. I didn't want to continue the projects I had started because I wasn't in the mood for scratch modelling. I wanted to make a quick project - almost oob. Of course with a wooden propeller, because building one is just fun.
Working on two Pfalz D.IIIa (one as a triplane conversion) a long time ago was great fun and there was still a special kit waiting in my stash: a Limited Edition Dual Combo Pfalz D.III. No, I haven't forgotten the "a", this really is the forerunner of the D.IIIa. Eduard has re-released the D.IIIa kit often, but this Edition is from 2005 and was never released again. I hear some voices: Limited Editions are for collecting, not building. Never mind, I'm building the kit now!
I'm building the machine from the cover picture - and because there's a heart on it, I'm dedicating the build to my wife, who always supports me!
24 July, 19:34
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Excellent to see you Frank!! I can't wait to follow along with this. Which is sure to be another beautiful build. Any edition…Limited, or otherwise sounds like something to build to me!! But maybe I'm doing things wrong. Ha!!
25 July, 04:59
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Zum Glück bist Du wieder fit! 👍
Sieht mal wieder klasse aus, die kleinen Steuerseile sind geil. 🙂
25 July, 06:19
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Looks like an interesting project Frank. I must admit that I don't know much about WWI aircraft and your builds are often a lesson about the real machines as well as a lesson in modelling.
25 July, 06:38
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Thank you very much mates! Great to know that you are following 👍
Yeah Kyle, all kits can be build. But some collects rare kits as investment and hope to sell it later for higher prices. Once started the value goes near zero. But we have fun building them and that is invaluable!
@gorby You will see later that the Pfalz fighters are elegant planes!
25 July, 10:01
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Indeed. I take a great pleasure in opening up and building valuable kits. I would be a really horrible collector. Lol.
25 July, 10:51
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I have a few rare ones. But I'll gladly build them when the time comes. That's what kits are for!
25 July, 15:30
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A warm welcome to the show also for the new visitors!
I hope to have it ready for our next club meeting, so it will be a quick build (for my standards).
25 July, 19:20
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Good to see you back at the bench. I consider the Pfalz DIII one of the most elegant WWI planes and have two in my stash too. So I won't miss this build.
Keep it coming.
25 July, 21:00
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I'm also glad you're back on the bench. I really enjoy watching you build models.
... by the way... I really like to buy Eduard limited edition models. They include lots of extras and often a publication with photos and information about the type whose model is in the box. I still have some of the limited edition models in my closet. Not because I just collect them, but because I haven't managed to build them yet. 🙂
26 July, 08:09
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I'm sorry to hear that you had a health scare, and hope that all is okay again for you. Your projects are always inspiring and a joy to follow. Have fun bringing this special one to life 🙂
26 July, 08:44
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Thank you very much mates! Your nice comments are highly appreciated!
I hope to show later new pictures showing the elegant lines even more.
@Ludvik Since this is an older kit in this case not a single word about the type! Only a ink jet printed manual, and one colorful, nicely printed sheet showing the six markings including decal placement. Anyway, the kit parts and PE are nice, a mask is also included.
@Bruce Ageing is not for cowards! But at least the fun is back with this project so I made also good progress.
26 July, 12:19
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Now some colour comes into play! I drew some masks and had them cut by the plotter.
26 July, 16:00
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Happy you're back, but what the heck???
This is a speedbuild, never seen one made by you.
And it's going to be an elegant one 👍
26 July, 17:59
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Yes Christoph, that was exactly the reason why I selected this kit/project from my stash! Due to my two Eduard D.IIIa I was fully aware of the kit and I know what have to be done where. For the paint I used here Alclad and Mr.Paint so I could do all the masking and painting on one afternoon 🙂 MrPaint is the "modelling turbo"!
Even the rigging is not very complicated, no crosses inside the struts, and a single-bay biplane 👍
26 July, 19:49
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The speed with which you have progressed on this model is admirable. The paintwork turned out great and the different shades of silver depending on the material the paint was applied to look very good.
26 July, 21:54
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That is a lovely machine with a lovely scheme as well. I really do need to do a few WWI subjects. Camo was in its infancy and making a reputation seemed more important at the time so what better way than to add a garish (some would say "striking") paint job? Though, I do NOT need to add more to the stash, I will be 100+ before I finish what I have. As you note, getting older is not fun, but it's preferable to the alternative! Good to see you back. 👍
27 July, 02:01
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Thanks to all for your wonderful feedback!
@Ludvik That is only one thin common layer of Semi Matt Alu. The underground shines through, like a preshading.
@John There are many very nice schemes available in my Pfalz references, especially in the "Pfalz D.IIIa at war" books (I have another D.IIIa Profipack in my shash). Regarding the second kit of this Dual Combo: The six Eduard markings are nice, but I will try to replicate a beautiful blue/red four-view profile painted by Ronny Bar in the Kagero book.
Regarding camo and colorful markings: The German printed fabric known as Lozenge had to task to avoid the detection of the aircraft type from far away (blur contours). The colorful markings were needed during dog fights with many fighters for quick detection of enemy, friends and leaders, as there were no radios yet (ok, some air-to-gound radios with morse code in two seaters; but no communication between fighters).
@J35J Then I hope the further steps will fulfill your expectations!
27 July, 11:33
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Nice ... very nice choice 👍👍👍 been considering one soon... Has it been a good kit ??
27 July, 12:07
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Oh yes, the Eduard Pfalz D.III series are great kits! There are small things which can be fixed and I mention them in my build reports. If you click on my Pfalz Collection you can see also my other builds of this kit.
The kit has also optional parts, e.g. for the D.IIIa two lower wings in different shapes. There was also a PE sheet for the IIIa with many more nice parts than on the little Profipack PE.
27 July, 12:55
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Taking a late seat. The subtle variation in aluminum color is excellent. I also like the painted-on insignia and markings 👍
27 July, 13:08
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Thanks 👍👍 the kit does look really precise, will check out build,
I have an RC version from E-file, as always loved the look of the look of them..l put photo in my main Album.
Thanks for Advice 😁
27 July, 14:13
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Thanks, 😃👍 calm weather flyer....looks great in the air.
Ok....your better informed on the WW1 stuff , l tend to watch vids n research an aircraft on and around the building ....for ref n learning.
It's mainly been ww2 n cold war I've built so far.
Best of luck with rest of build it's brilliant job so far.
27 July, 15:36
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New pictures are uploaded with the prepared undercarriage. At first I wanted to use the kit parts, but I checked my other Pfalz in the cabinet: the legs are very flexible. In this new case my legs had also a mould offset (that is something I hate on filigree plastic parts!) so for fix this it would made the legs more weak.
As many of my newer models has metal legs now I decided to do it here too. As other advantage they are finer and looks more scale.
27 July, 17:25
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I was waiting to see how long your determination to build a model as an OOB would last. That's exactly how my builds are going. Every time I decide to build a model as an OOB, there is always some thing that needs to be adjusted. 😉
27 July, 20:19
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Do you just wrap the stretched sprue around the struts of the suspension or do you soften it before by any means?
28 July, 09:23
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Another set of nice comments - thank you very much!
Michael, I have different colored sprues for such tasks. Some short run plastic do not work, but typically the Eduard ones and some others works nicely. They are very flexible if thin so I no not soften them. You just have to be careful not to create a snare when wrapping, because then the material can break. I secure it with CA.
28 July, 10:20
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The decals are applied. Only the wheels are not yet done, because I have to repaint them.
28 July, 10:53
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Superb work. For the legs (pic 32), do you first bend the brass tube and then squeeze it to shape?
28 July, 14:37
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Good question Alec! I squeezed at first and bend it after that, slowly and careful. I keep the brass between two plates and one leg in a vice to avoid that it moves outwards. See also pic 30.
Have not tried it, may be other way around works too?
28 July, 16:03
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Really great work, which is not surprising at all.😄 👍 Since I'm just starting my very first WWI project (Eduards Pfalz D.IIIa), your builds are a great inspiration for me.
1 August, 11:47
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Thank you very much! Good decision - it is a great kit! I need some fixes to be correct, e.g. the engine is a different 180hp Mercedes.
My D.III here is now a biplane. May be I can show some pics later.
1 August, 13:09
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Ok, today this build is running for exactly three weeks! I'm not yet finished, but many things are done already - including the rigging! Only two wires for control of the ailerons needs to be added. Also the airscrew and the spinner needs some attention.
Although this is a speed build by my standards, it remains incomprehensible to me how one is supposed to build such a model from an Eduard Weekend Edition in a weekend?
1 August, 20:38
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Yes gorgeous work, as usual. Looks like it is getting closer and a very quick build for you. I'm really liking it.
1 August, 21:20
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Very nice work. A clean build with very nice details. WWI aircraft are a labor of love. This one is exceptional
1 August, 23:05
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Thank you mates for your very kind words!
Nick I think others of my biplanes are more "exceptional", as this is here a near oob build without that much scratch work 🙂
2 August, 16:40
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Pfalz with the added details looks very good. Also the tiny red arrows on the engine covers and the small lettering on the fuselage give the model a realistic look. Very nice progress. 👍
4 August, 11:14
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With adding the last pictures the project is finished now 🙂 Thanks for watching and commenting!
After s little weathering I will try to take the final shots.
4 August, 13:21
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Prop finish looks good, thanks for your uploads n sharing project... Much appreciated 👍👍
4 August, 13:31
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Thank you Mr D! I forgot to take pictures of some details like the mirror and the aileron levers, but you can see those in the album of the finished model - don't miss it:
Pfalz D.III 4056/17 | Album by bughunter (1:48)
4 August, 14:58
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A great job Bugsy. I hope your recovery is complete now and we can enjoy loads more of your beautiful builds.
4 August, 16:32
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Oh, no, this level of details just can't be true. Admit you have domesticated ants to do this job. I'm speechless, anyway
5 August, 14:25
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Thank you very much mates for leaving such nice comments 😎
Don't miss the final pictures!
19 August, 15:29
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I dont know if im just building too complex models for my age or if just have a really big skill issue, but i feel like i should be making better quality models.
19 August, 09:29
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I suspect there are some typical issues. Like, handling superglue without making a mess, or ending up with other issues, like gluing on photo etch too good so you can't get them off, instead best add minimal amount to make it stick, and then if happy, maybe add some more afterwards.
I am exploring using UV glue that goes hard only after long time, or, by using (potentially hazardous without protective goggles) a small UV flashlight to make the glue go hard when you want it to, and so not quickly like with basic cyanoacrylate. I don't like the consistency of this glue though, it sort of reminds me of sticky epoxy glue, even though iirc it is runny and not gel like.
Getting a smooth finish I guess is also tricky, with every tiny scratch showing through a layer of airbrushed paint. Vallejo putty is nice to use, simple and fairly non-toxic afaik, easily removed with a sharp blade, and then gently go over with metal file and sanding stick or a small piece of sanding sponge.
A recent halleluja moment was using a thinner mix for Vallejo paints, really helps on tip dry issues. I also finally learned to start using my 0.5 airbrush (more paint flow), and not keep airbrushing larger models with my 0.35 airbrush, that hardly puts out paint.
I also seem to have finally learned to put on a nice smooth and shiny layer of gloss coat, using Vallejo's gloss varnish (old type?) together with this thinner mix containing more retarder in it.
I guess there is also an issue of composition, making sure one uses the correct colors, and add enough details, like rigging on ships, so that isn't missing.
I've bought some Abteilung oil tubes, for weathering, but haven't started using this, afraid of making mistakes.
Other mistakes, might be something simple as forgetting things, doing what you had planned in your head, in the wrong order, the week after. Having too much fun putting things together, forgetting that you intended to do some extra stuff, or even, forgetting to glue on this one part that was supposed to go on the inside model early on.
19 August, 09:33
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Well, hopefully you are not using tube glue. Everyone now is using Tamiya's Extra Thin cement I would think. And that liquid glue is supposed to be applied on the OUTSIDE of the seams, not inside like in the old days with gooey tube glue.
Btw Tamiya's big bottle of airbrush cleaner liquid (250ml), is apparently the same chemical as their Extra Thin liquid glue, which should cut down cost by a lot. 🙂
Btw, I noticed yesterday someone on youtube recommended mixing Tamiya's acrylic X-20A thinner with Vallejo paints, as it was claimed the Tamiya stuff contained a retarder agent in it. Haven't tried it myself yet.
19 August, 10:02
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Well yeah im not using tube glue, even though i have extra thin cement i prefer Tamiya's normal cement. And sadly i dont have an airbrush nor the money to buy one
19 August, 10:13
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I think multiple thin layers of paint with a flat brush might the way to go, but I never got around to try that out myself. Btw, I found that putting on a primer color, might as well be good enough, not requiring additional color on top. Say, NATO green primer, if NATO green is what you wanted anyway.
A layer of paint can probably be safely sanded with some sanding sponge, asssuming you don't hit any edge of details where the paint will be surely stripped. And then, adding a varnish on top, hides any roughness after going over the painted surface with some small piece of sanding sponge to remove uneven bits of paint. This ofc, only works if you consistently sand each layer from the bottom, else the bottom layer might have tops/hills that shine through, if you ONLY sand the top layers of paint.
19 August, 10:22
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Augie Paint by brush. Better than a few folks with airbrushes. All in the technique
19 August, 10:27
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We all need to start somewhere Kesa, at the start of any hobby, the quality of the finish isn't the goal, it's enjoying yourself. No photos of my early models exist as I didn't have a camera when I was your age, I guarantee they looked crap – too much glue, no filler, all the decals silvered and many of them didn't even get painted….but I loved it.
When I returned to the hobby nine years ago after a 37 year break I started simply – simple kits with no weathering, no washes, no photo etch and no added details. The skills I have now have grown over the years because I wanted too try new things. If my aim was to become as good as some of the Scalemates master modellers I see every day, I'd give up now because that's never going to happen. A hobby should be about enjoyment, if you put pressure on yourself to achieve perfection you're just going to end up frustrated and giving up the modelling. Take your time to improve and enjoy the journey.
I still overuse glue. I'm old-school so I usually prefer Revell Contacta and occasionally Tamiya Thin. If you find your having problems using too much, try applying the glue with a cocktail stick.
As Martin mentioned, it's entirely possible to get good results painting with a brush. Augie's builds look like they've been airbrushed, but I bet that hasn't always been the case. No doubt she started by daubing the paint on like the rest of us and gradually improved over time. There are many type of brush and each has their own job, if you use the wrong one it won't help. Don't rush to get an airbrush until you are sure modelling is going to be something you will be doing for a few years.
I'll let you into a secret. I like modelling 1/72 vehicles because I'm crap at, and don't like weathering and my poor skills in that area are less noticeable on 1/72 models than they would be on 1/35. I don't learn to weather better because my enjoyment is building and adding details, not painting and particularly not weathering. By that stage I'm usually thinking about the next build and don't want to waste time weathering.
Also, don't forget that every aircraft or vehicle you build was new at the start of it's life and it's perfectly okay of you want to build it as factory-finish. Many people do and that doesn't mean their models are any worse than a model of a Panzer which has been though every puddle on the Eastern front.
Have fun. 🙂
20 August, 09:05
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Wow thats a lot of text lol. Yeah i guess we all do start somewhere. And (no offence) i know your stating the obvious things that i should know but your words sound really wise
20 August, 15:32
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Dont worry mate, we all startet. My first model i build was a revell 1/72 corsair and i didnt even had paint for it. 😬
I can really recomment the tamiya thin glue and airbrush.
Youtube Video
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This F-18 was my first try using a crappy revell airbrush but damn i loved the result. I didnt had clearcoat or weathering stuff.
With the time and every model you learn something new and improve. I still try new things on every model and still mess them up.
Keep going. 👍
20 August, 16:26
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If you become good at it a good brush master can achieve brilliant results.After many years with the hairy stick I'm still rubbish at it but it's a personal thing.
20 August, 16:38
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添加了一个新相册
55 31 May, 15:38
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Started this one.
The Ju 86 which were seen in 2 different Austrian markings, but at the end was never part of the Airforce. Here the overall silver Ju86 #311 at the airshow in Vienna-Aspern in early 1937.
2 June, 11:10
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The mention aircraft was sent to the Airshow in Aspern as a "demonstrator" in austrian marking. Austria was interessed in buying 18 Ju86K-7. Due to several reasons Junkers was not prepared for that airshow and on short note removed the markings of an 86K-2 that was already prepared to be sold to Sweden. They put on austrian markings, a service number #311 and flew it over to Austria for just this one day. Flight captain Behrendt did a good job and the aerobatic air-display was a great success. So far so good. Why I am telling this? 86-K2 is a differend engine and cowling. The box is a 86E1/2. Aftermarket conversion products are out there (Kora) .....I had difficulties to locate/buy some.
Therefore: it is Scratchbuilding time again !!! 😎
5 June, 18:16
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thx Alec &Lukasz for you very kind support 👍 - appreciated.
But the first cuts are already done - no way back now 😉
(and I have to odmit: usually I like it to test my skills by a DIY task every now and then)
5 June, 18:51
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Ah, a new and very interesting project. Of course I will follow that. Have fun with the Ju 86 Jürgen.
15 June, 07:23
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I have finished the modification on the engine resp. cowling. Some new pic's up-loaded.
23 June, 15:27
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Very interesting and extremely promising! We talked about it in Ried, and now I'm delighted to see these ideas being realised in such an impressive way!
23 June, 15:30
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Nice progress Jürgen! I´m in to see how this beauty comes together 👍
24 June, 14:07
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Thank you mates for leaving your nice comments.Iam wWorking on the exhaust pipe currently. New picture up-date should be ready after this coming weekend.
3 July, 17:07
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All mod's are completted now - after adding the windows of the cockpit I can move it to the paint hangar.
13 July, 20:27
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Hey - thank you Roland for your feedback. That gives motivation of course 🙂
14 July, 16:01
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That's great, that's how it should be, because your construction progress here gives me inspiration 🙂
14 July, 17:20
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Thank you Alec, Thomas & Cuajete. When I had finished I thought: "Grab, overdone. This bird was for sure not that worn as it went to the airshow more or less fresh from the manufacturer." But the more looked at it the more I was okay with the result. So your comments are welcome and soothe my concerns. 👍
9 August, 16:22
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Don't worry Juergen, even on new airplanes there are sometimes clear visual differences in the sheet metal. For example, some manufacturers deburr the rivet holes with a grinding machine, the sheets are made of different alloys or are applied with different rolling directions, all of which have an influence on the appearance. I like it.
9 August, 19:16
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A very big "Thank You" to everyone for your positive feedback. My stash still contains of further bare metal birds - this comments give definitively good motivation. 👍
cheers.
19 August, 05:56
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A really great and very nice result, Jürgen - I think your whole project is really worth seeing - I also like the photos very much! Congratulations!
19 August, 14:07
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Many Thanks gorby, Bernd, Neuling & Roland. Much appriciated comments 🙂
20 August, 16:37
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拥有此物
![1:76 RAF Emergency Set (Tsukuda Hobby 876W05) 876W05](/products/img/6/0/4/181604-12155-t180.jpg)
RAF Emergency Set Austin K.2 Ambulance & Austin K.6 Crash Tender
Tsukuda Hobby 1:76
876W05 1988 新的盒子 多主题 (2)20 August, 16:35
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添加了一个新相册
24 7 June, 15:25
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Cool! I was wondering how all the extra parts in mine looked when done, very nice. 👍
If you will accept a bit of advice, when you complete the cabin "shell" that goes into the fuselage halves, be prepared to do a lot of trimming and fitting before closing up. On mine, the sides of the fuselage wanted to push the roof of the cabin down and also hit the edges of the windscreen opening and that left a big gap on top. I finally got it acceptable fit, but even then, I wish I had cut more away because the cabin roof does not quite fit flush.
20 June, 15:34
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Thanks for the advice. I'll take care of it 🙂
I build a lot of Revell kits in the past and the fitting was different with every model. I have got everything between pretty good and horrible. It's always like a mysterious box.
20 June, 16:28
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I'm sure you will do well with all that Revell experience. 👍 The good news is that other than the cabin shell, the rest fits OK (ish) even the windscreens. But if you want doors closed, also be prepared to do some surgery on them.
20 June, 17:35
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Looking good indeed! How did (or will) you paint the inside of the air intakes?
John is right with his comment, the cabine ceiling is a problem. I decided to keep the pilot door frames on the inside out for the moment. Without them the fitting seems to be quite good.
12 August, 20:01
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Thanks Andre! I already painted the air intakes with my airbrush. Now I will mask everything off so the paint is save for the yellow.
13 August, 07:31
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