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1 图片
Panther Ausf.G 1945
1:72
My first Vespid kit, fantastic detailing. I'm hoping to get the 3d printed tracks, otherwise, it will be a oob build wit...
3 11 April, 10:04

Even though a 1:72 scale tank doesn't need to present as much detail as say a 1:35 scale kit, it's nice to see these smaller kits coming with PE parts... Arguably the smaller kits benefit more from being able to render finer but representative details in something other than injection-moulded plastic... Keen to see how this turns out!
18 April, 10:59

is there any paint brand that can be mixed with Tamiya acrylic paint?
16 April, 11:56

The composition of paints is so complex a chemist would probably be the best person to answer that question. Tamiya is alcohol based and in theory shouldn't be mixable with water based and definitely not enamel paints. If the other brand is alcohol based I can't see why it wouldn't work, but I suggest experimenting before you try it on your model.
1 17 April, 07:57

Gunze aqueous should work, same base as Tamiya. I mainly use both of these paints, no reason why you couldn't mix them
1 17 April, 12:30

thanks for the info, I mainly ask this because my Tamiya XF-2 white have a habit of become dry and chocky. my latest pot I only bought 3 months ago and it already gone bad
1 17 April, 16:09

I have mixed Ak, Vallejo, and Green stuff world without any problem. I use wáter as solvent with tamiya XFs always without any problem too.
18 April, 10:10

Fortunately in a significantly less tropical climate, Tamiya paints stay usable for years. You could try adding Tamiya thinners or a small amount of Tamiya paint retarder to the jar to see if that helps.
18 April, 10:46

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19 20 March, 11:36

At 55 years old here it's really hard to stand on my head, if you go into advanced settings you can turn your photo's to face correctly. I know because I have to fix all of mine too. Have fun with the photo etch, thats actually my favorite part of building a model. You'll need a folding jig to do really nice bends, and for glue I've used and had great results with Clear Nail Polish, Microscale's Micro Kristal Klear, Mig Ultra Glue, and of course super glue. For positioning I do a 2 step process when my pe part is ready to install, first a tiny dab of Microscale's Micro Liquitape and let it dry a few minutes till it turns clear. It in now sticky like a very light adhesive and can be placed and manipulated into just the right position, then a dab of your choice of glue. If you go with any brand super glue and it's the thin kind I highly recommend a Glue Looper set, very cheap and will last forever. Clean up old glue on the tip with a cigarette lighter. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your build 🙂
1 20 March, 18:44

I've done a terrible job with my first ever part.
Glue looper? Why have I never heard of these things? lol we are practically twins. Well, I'm 56. With the modelling skills of a 5 year old 😳😂
20 March, 22:01

@lorraine are there actual female modellers? Clair is that a male name where you live? Surely there aren't 2 female modellers on earth? I'm showing my 1970's attitude here. 😳😂
By the way Lorraine cute cat. I have a dog but he's scared of cats. In fact he's even scared of doors! lol
20 March, 22:03

Danny, female modelers are relatively fewer in China, especially military modelers. But we do exist😜 And I also see many females in this community.
[img1]
2 20 March, 23:38

Thats ok Danny, Im 55 and act about 5 lol. I get along with my 3 year old grand daughter on the same level 🙂 Clair is a dude unless there's an e on the end usually. I have 2 cats, the one is super skittish, I remember when he was a kitten he farted, it scared him n he ran a good 15 feet before turning around to look at his butt. Hahaha
2 21 March, 00:06

Oh and to get that paper off use some nail polish remover. It dissolves super glue pretty quick. Then touch it up.
1 21 March, 00:12

Great conversation going on here!
I have to catchup:
1st - I'm in the same age bracket at 59 with the modelling ability of a 90 year old who can't find his glasses 🙂
2nd - whats this I here about using a lighter to cleanup the tip on glue! How does that work? Is it for super glue cleanup? I'm always dealing with nasty clogs.
3rd - Where I live in Canada we have very few female modellers. In fact, I have never seen one. I have a theory that females can be amazing modellers because of small fingers. I don't have fat sausage fingers but they are big enough to get in the way of intricate work.
4th - @Danny I know another modeller on here named Jennifer. She is relative new to the hobby and already quite good. Lorraine's work is amazing!
Lastly - I have cats. I use to have dogs when I was younger, but now it's cats. They drive me crazy and I think the little assassins are trying to kill me, but I love them to bits.
1 21 March, 03:48

I love this site. So much good advice and just when I felt like giving up I get lots of lovely people encouraging me to carry on. Thank you. I also need to give a shout out to Jakko. I drive him crazy with almost daily questions and he's never once told me to stop and leave him alone! 🙂
@Rui, I'd love to see a few more females in the hobby. In fact I need a new wife and one who could help me build a model would be a definite bonus. It's all about the lack of sausage fingers, as you say 😂
2 21 March, 07:02

For PE parts, I use lighter to clean up the instant glue. It works very well, 100% burned up.
And sometimes, I wish I had a third hand, help me to hold the small parts so I can glue them together😛
2 21 March, 08:33

Remove superglue from a glue looper, a needle, blade, or whatever metal item you use, by holding it into the flame of a lighter. Let the tool cool of, remove residue with a paper towel.
1 21 March, 08:53

Thanks Thomas.
@lorraine a third hand would be invaluable! In fact on a serious note are there items you can get to help with that? I often find myself wishing I had something to place a model in when I need to add a tricky part. I bought a small jewellers vice that I sometimes use but if there are other devices I'd love to try one!
21 March, 10:35

I bought a soldering helping hands in electronics store. It helps sometimes.
2 21 March, 12:04

I think I'll get one too Lorraine. By the way I'm seriously impressed at your skill. Are you a professional model maker? Or something similar? Film business?
21 March, 23:30

I have the same kit on my workbench right now, take care the instructions have a few errors and some missing steps to do, just in case you haven't noticed
1 22 March, 10:43

Danny, I'm not a professional modeler. Building
models is just a hobby in my spare time. I've learned a lot of skills in this community.
3 22 March, 15:23

I have 3 or 4 helping hands of different sizes but this one is on my "snag it eventually" list : amazon.com/gp/produc..8B8CMKBF3NX&th=1 , should prove handy when I am repairing electronics as well.
1 22 March, 19:12

@Robert yeah I've noticed one error so far. I bet yours comes out a lot better than mine!
23 March, 17:35

@lorraine how long have you been modelling? You really are skilled. I'm very new to it but I think it'd take me at least a decade to get to your level!
23 March, 17:37

@Danny, t's not about better, it's just about fun !! and you learn and get better with every model you build - may you've noticed that K3 and K4 track parts the designations are swapped, some drill holes that need to be made are not shown, best you download the instructions of the original Academy kit, last page shows some corretions .... scalemates.com/products/img/5/1/1/839511-44-instructions.pdf
3 23 March, 21:34

Well said Robert, without having a fun time we'd all be doing something else instead.
3 23 March, 23:29

@Danny, about 6-7 years. Agree with Robert and Clair, it's all about having a fun time. I enjoy those few hours late at night when I build models. I can fully immerse myself and forget about other worries. And I also enjoy to learn and to share with all the friendly mates here.
3 24 March, 03:21

I agree but I'm at the stage where I'm messing everything up. I think it'll be a lot more fun when I get a bit better and I have a system for doing things. I mostly make (so far. I have 61 kits and about 2/3rds are AFV) tanks. Can't decide whether it's better to spray the wheels and tracks before adding them or once they're glued in place. I'm veering towards the 'before' scenario. Same with the tools and things like machine guns and rifles (from my universal carrier). I don't feel confident at all with figures. In fact I'd even say they scare me. 😳😂
24 March, 16:13

@Danny, take it easy, may start with your more simple kits, to mess something up sometimes is part of the never ending learning process and fortunely on armour models you can easy hide a mistake by covering it with something, at least mostly 😉 I airbrush the assembled main groups, hull, turret, wheels, tracks... separately. I also glue small things like tools before airbrushing to the hull, I've no problem to paint small things with a fine brush after... just look always what makes more sense. Figure painting is also not such a big deal, many tuturial on YT, start with simple guides.... and don't try to paint eyes, mostly not necessary at all 😮
2 25 March, 12:26

Danny bro,. you didn't mess anything up... Thats the beauty of modelling war machines, Battle Damage 🙂 I've been building models on and off since '74 and I still make colossal goofs here and there. I was doing a Santa Maria all wood kit and guess what, I goofed and cut off in scale probably about 10 feet on the poop deck. I just planked and kept going, now it's a pee deck that bring your own bottle Hahahaha. We all screw up dont fret just learn and do better on the next one buddy 🙂 As for painting, I always paint parts separately, my hands shake a good bit anymore so I'd make one hell of a mess if I didnt.
2 25 March, 23:40

Thanks chaps. Great advice. That made me laugh clair. Pee deck and bring your own bottle. 😂
I actually thought this yesterday. Why am I worrying about a rip in a wire mesh on a machine that's had dozens of armour piercing shells slung its way? Of course it's gonna look beaten up! That's a sure sign that I've not (yet) done any weathering whatsoever! 🙂
And Robert I agree. It's a good job I've (now) got 62 kits (just bought another panzer iv by Ryefield oh and a hetzer by Takom so 63 kits! (They were so cheap on temu. The Ryefield was just £11! Well with my discount.
I have now stopped buying. For now 🙂
1 26 March, 08:03

Danny You surely can do better. Because I just joined this community last year, while you've been here since the very beginning😜
26 March, 15:22

Not me Lorraine. I only joined in November. Or thereabouts 🙂
You did say you've been model building for about 6 years? I might have mixed up your comment with someone else. It's my age! Lol
27 March, 10:24

Can somebody take away my credit card please? I just saw a Takom 1:35 panzer III Ausf.M mit schurzen (armour skirts) on Temu and it was only £15. God knows where I'm gonna put these models once they're built? I'll need at least 3 more houses. Maybe I can build a few model blocks of flats? 😂
While I'm here, do any of you use those PE bending tools to help you? Some are like metal rulers with lots of different shapes to bend around. Another type is a square with another square with shapes cut out and there's a screw down clamp to securely fix the part down when bending. I can get one of each type for around £7 with my current discount . Are they worthwhile or just a gimmick?
On a similar note, I wish I could find a solution to my many different diameter circle masks. Being primarily interested in AFV builds, I find I need (especially if the road wheels are rubber edged and therefore painted in black(ish), I know you can buy specific wheel masks for many kits but they're not cheap. I was wondering if there's a good universal solution. A tool or technique where you can make your own masks or stencils. Bearing in mind, I have the abilities of a not particularly bright or gifted toddler 😂😂😂
27 March, 10:39

I use a Bug from the Small Shop and it's simply a must have to get great folds on the first try. Each bend at the same spot makes brass weaker. So yes, definitely get a screw down type.
As for question 2 >>> Tadah!!!!! scalehobbyist.com/ca..00000048/product.php
I bought one, seems nice quality but haven't needed to actually use it yet.
1 27 March, 10:47

Thanks Clair. You the man. As they say. Funny to think I thought you might've been the (wo)man before you educated me about the different spellings of your name! 🙂 then again (I'm assuming here yet again) you Americans do love to change the spelling of the mother tongue! lol 😂😂😂😁😁
But seriously, thanks for the reply and advice. It does make it feel like I'm not in this arms race against 1940's nazism alone. Even though I'm building German tanks 😁😊
You've convinced me. I'm gonna buy a screw down clamp thing. I mean, for equivalent of ten US dollars, you can't really go wrong?
27 March, 11:11

I wonder if that stencil you linked would cover the British tanks too? I see that panzer iv is mentioned. I have all the British tanks to build. Churchill, Cromwell, valentine, crusader, Matilda as well as the Brit versions of American tanks like Grants, Lees, Stuart's, and shermans ? I guess it'd be expecting a bit too much to have a single stencil to cover all German, American and Brit machines? 🙂
27 March, 11:39

@Danny, I have this USTAR UA-80026, covers all wheel diameters, at least I didn't have one where it didn't fit in scale 1/35. For bending PE parts just a small tool which is usually sufficient for what I need it [img1] [img2]
1 27 March, 12:37

Thanks Robert. I've just bought something similar on temu and a square one that you can screw down. Because I've been buying a lot of kits from them I had some discount. The screw down type was originally £20. I got it for £6. Hopefully it'll be decent quality. I'll have a look at the wheel mask. As well as the one Clair suggested. Thanks to you both.
2 29 March, 20:55

Helpful tips abound here. Sorry I missed it til now. Photo 5 looks nicely done. I apply superglue with a sewing needle with the end of the eye cut off like a tiny little U. When it gets gummed up I burn the glue off with a lighter. In my late 50's as well.
My girlfriend builds models as well but isn't on scalemates. I like to build things with my kids also.
3 29 March, 21:04

Gee Ben, that's a really smart idea there with the needle. I like the ingenuity bud 🙂
1 30 March, 07:24

Hi Ben. I forgot that I bought this little tool from Temu. It's a very fine needle on a small spring and it unscrews from the handle where it's safely stored away. Basically you just dip it in the super glue then dot it where you want it. When it first arrived a couple of months ago I was disappointed but it really has helped. Though I obviously had to remember I had it first! lol
So your whole family model build? That's great 🙂
30 March, 12:55

@clair shall I post a link to the needle tool I bought? It's just a small bullet looking piece of metal that unscrews then you screw it in the other end. It's just a really fine needle on a small limited movement spring like joint. A lot more handy than I first thought! Bear with me I'm not good with computers/phones. I've added a picture of the tool in the project/build photos. See it? They sell them on Amazon too but it was half that price on temu.
2 30 March, 12:58

Actually Danny yeah I'll grab me a few next week when I get my ssi in.Thanks man I'd like to give that a shot, looks very useful.
1 30 March, 15:52

I'm embarrassed to post any more pics of the build. It looks like an explosion in a Humbrol liquid poly and Tamiya extra thin plant as an Airfix lorry carrying T34-85 112 Factory production 1:35 kits was passing….😳
Don't think I'm ever gonna get a call from Industrial Light and Magic with a job offer. 😂
1 13 April, 12:35

Naw buddy, Im sure it's nothing some putty wont take care of, nothing else use tarps and mud to cover bad spots. Perhaps it's a battle damaged 34 getting hauled back for repairs... 🙂
2 13 April, 20:41

Everybody started somewhere, and nobody built award-winning models when they were just starting out.
Also, you'll be amazed what a coat of paint while hide, never mind the suggestions above 🙂
2 13 April, 20:48

I think it's because I'm thinking I can put every part in place then use extra thin. I used to apply glue BEFORE placing the part as a kid. Do you glue before for some parts and only glue while in place if you can do that from the unseen side as it were? Like inside a tank for example and the part being on the outside. Also Like the seams of the hull for example?
I am still enjoying building but I seem to be very slow. I just cut a few parts from the tree, sand them down then add a few then stop. I rarely sit for hours at a time. Just half hour here and there while tv is on. 🙂
These 65 kits (yes 65 now but definitely stopped buying. For now 😂 ) are gonna take a loooooong time! 😳😂😂😂
1 14 April, 16:40

One more quick question. After handling the model for weeks, it's obviously covered in grease from your hands, do you wash the model before spraying? Like wipe with a little soapy water? It's gotta help the painting, no?
1 14 April, 16:48

I glue some parts by putting glue on first, others by putting the part in place and then flowing glue into the seam. It largely depends on whether I think it will stay put ot not without glue 🙂
As for washing it: if the first coat is going to be paint that is alcohol-based, a lacquer, an enamel, or anything else with a solvent in it stronger than water, there's almost certainly no need to wash off grease etc. Which is to say: I can't remember ever doing it, and the only paints that have given me trouble on bare plastic have been water-based acrylics, especially airbrush-ready ones.
2 14 April, 17:21

Like Jakko, it just depends for me on the particular part and how it positions before I even decide which glue to use.
For the wash I absolutely give a nice warm bath with Dawn dish soap to my parts before painting, Im a sweat hog so my hands get all kinds of sweat on the parts, probably a bit of tobacco breath too so they get a nice wash n dry, then paint away with usually acrylics.
2 14 April, 22:10

To be honest Jakko, I only have acrylic paints, even the primers I have are acrylic so I'll probably do the same as Clair and give this one a bath. I didn't with my first 1:35 build a Tamiya Panther (I should add some pics but it's awaiting its 2nd coat of gelbraun and the olivgrun and rotbrun too) and it looked like it might've struggled to stick in a couple of small areas due to what was probably greasy fingers. I did buy some latex finger glove things. But they'll take about an hour to put on! Each finger. 😳😂
1 17 April, 05:48

It can't hurt to wash the model, certainly. Well, as long as you're careful not to break any bits off, anyway 😉
1 17 April, 08:51

Well, there is that of course Jakko. Knowing me, it'll probably end up just adding more glue to the surface somehow. I'll use the wrong toothbrush. One loaded with poly instead of fairy liquid. 😳😂
1 18 April, 07:23

If you apply glue with a toothbrush then I think we've just located the problem 😉
1 18 April, 08:40

Hahaha. Actually, I use a toilet cleaner brush. I find toothbrushes don't allow quite enough poly to get on 🙂.
Can I ask you an unrelated question? I know I have literally asked your advice on hundreds of occasions (no exaggeration. You have the patience of a modelling saint). I know I said I was gonna stop buying kits but there are 3 vehicles I love (one was one I discovered reading the book you wrote Tanks at Westkapelle) the LVT-A4 (is that the one with the cannon on top and MG at the back? That one. And 2 aircraft. The A10 Warthog and the P38 Lightning.
I know you did tell me before but it'd take ages trawling thru your previous replies. Do you know a decent kit of any of them but in particular the LVT? I really want one. Watched 2 documentaries last night. One called Hell in the Pacific and it had LVTs as they landed on Guadalcanal.
The other documentary I watched was set in your local area (or relatively close by). Isleer or Ismeer lake? It was about an Avro Lancaster that had been damaged by flak in Germany and as it flew over the Netherlands to the coast it was picked up by a luftwaffe night fighter and it came down with the loss of all 7 crew. But the Dutch authorities in 2023 built a dam around the crash site, drained it and recovered the bodies so the families of the 3 missing could finally have closure. I think it's great your country shows its thanks and respect all this time later!
1 18 April, 09:39

In 1:35 you only really have two options: AFV Club has an early and a late LVT (4), while Italeri has a range of them (those were also sold in Revell boxes, BTW). The AFV Club kits are much better detailed but harder to build, the Italeri ones are simpler to build but have a number of mistakes. Also, you can probably get two Italeri LVTs for the price of one AFV Club one.
For LVTs in the Pacific, any of the above will do. For British ones in Europe, though, you want an LVT (2), LVT(A) (2) or LVT (4) kit, and if you go for the AFV Club one, the early type, not the late. None of these include the 20 mm Polsten gun, though. LVT-2 Amtrac (Italeri 6462, 1:35) LVT-(A)2 "Saipan" (Italeri 6470, 1:35) LVT-4 Water Buffalo (Italeri 379, 1:35) Water Buffalo LVT-4 (AFV Club AF35205, 1:35)
As for the lake: you mean the IJsselmeer 🙂 That's quite a way from where I live, but I had heard of it, yes.
18 April, 10:36

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9 23 March, 21:06

Nice work! To get a smooth finish with green stuff, you can use a tiny bit of vaseline. It makes it easier to flatten and doesn't stick to your shaping tools anymore.
1 18 April, 09:25

Thanks mate! It's been a long time since I used it to sculpt Steel Legion gloves onto Cadian models, so thanks for the reminder! Must keep that in mind next time a fat but brittle sprue connection wants to dork me and destroy my parts...
18 April, 10:35

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32 23 November 2024, 16:21

Beautiful MiG-31. The MiG31 really comes into its own just by showing it in flight with the right flight angle. Fantastics.
23 November 2024, 19:32

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1 图片
Airfix F-86F Sabre | Wolfhounds, Soesterberg, 1954
1:48
What's up with that fanbladeless fan by Airfix? Good thing I still had this one in the spares box that is exactly the ri...
18 April, 10:32

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9 17 April, 00:09

Looks superb so far, please share more! 👍
I have a Super Galeb resin kit planned for this summer
17 April, 19:08

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38 29 December 2024, 16:55

It's just the begining
Plans are for all Zumbach fighters - Model Maker decals
5 March, 17:54

Following with particular interest as I collect bits and pieces right now for a diorama to commemorate the effort of polish fighters in the RAF.
1 4 April, 10:52

Thx mates.
I'm not so happy about results - had to use acrylic varnish (Model Master) and it was last time for this one, you can see whitish deposite specially on dark colour. You should remeber to stick to good one that you were using, Mr Hobby in my case.
The second one is that i had to use Sparmax Beattle with Ammo Matt Shadows, all of this due to home conditions.
Overall i think i could do better, lesson for the next build.
1 18 April, 06:55

Maybe in your opinion you could do better next time, in my opinion this is a very beautiful build.
18 April, 09:49

I don't know why, but when I upload my pictures here they are not right in rotation, although in my windows explorer they are. Why is it like this?
18 April, 00:17

Sometimes the camera orientation code overrides the display orientation – I'm not sure of the details.
If you go to 'Manage' and then 'Advanced options' you can change the orientation of your photos.
1 18 April, 07:09

Thank you, thank you, thank you! W/o your advice I would never get the point "Advanced options". Haha, cool! Thanks a lot! ♥
1 18 April, 09:12

Lots of people have problems with this, which makes me think the orientation process should be easier or more obvious. 🙂
1 18 April, 09:30

*laugh* yes, it should be bit more obvious or the upload script should "upload as is". But that is not in my area. You can do that! ^_~
1 18 April, 10:00

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71 24 February, 14:38

WOW! I'm amazed at how you make the scene so realistic. Your attention to detail is remarkable.
1 25 February, 07:11

This diorama is mind blowing. Literally thought it was a photo of a real scene at first. Thanks for shar8ng, fabulous example of model making art.
1 25 February, 07:16

Beautifully done diorama and very nice photos. Wonderful! Just the way Neuling does it so well! 👏👏👏
1 25 February, 07:40

Another dio with all the qualities we came to cherish from you. Again a treat.
27 February, 13:28

I just don't know how you do it - building such perfect pieces, laying them out on a beautifully haunting setting and arranging everything to tell a story is simply astounding! ❤️❤️❤️
1 1 March, 16:11

Awesome diorama and great setting. With thr background it adds a certain level of realism!
14 March, 04:26

It's all been said before but great storytelling diorama and the builds are excellent 👍
14 March, 07:56

The film camera effect makes it look like a war correspondent's photo. Nice work!
15 March, 06:08

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25 图片
HB A-6E 1/48 - Flight of the Intruder
1:48
Repairs and decals completed, now it’s time to focus on the armaments prior to weathering
44 6 March, 17:24

Awesome work! Learning a lot from your posts and looking forward to the final result!
20 March, 14:02

Thank you everyone!
@Thomas! Looking forward so seeing your Douglas build!
@Sergej- your F-35 is looking good! I heard that was a bad kit, but didn't realize it till your post!
@Lorraine - Your builds are always amazing! Using a laser cutter to create your latest Spitfire is brilliant!
@Rich - looking forward to seeing another dual build with you and your wife!
2 23 March, 17:18

Thank you Dietmar! I plan to have the maintenance hatches open on this puppy, but not as impressive as your cut-out Millenium Falcon!
24 March, 18:08

In photo 24, are you following a reference with the yellow de-icing surface? I thought they were only yellow on slats...
15 April, 08:14

Thank you Paul for the notes on the A-6!
@Rui - watching you Mariupol build with interest!
@Villers - love your cars, and watching your Maharaja edition with great interest!
Hi Sergei - I referenced it from the paint schemes in the instructions and checked the photos on the internet - and most of them have the yellow de-icing on the leading edge of the wing roots. After taking a closer look, seems like I missed the tail! 😀. Will work on that as I start the weathering. 😀
15 April, 19:00

CaptGPF,
The build is looking great. As a former A-6 pilot, the only time you'd have both sets of flaparons up and speed brakes out would be on landing roll out. Just so you know. And at times I adjust my builds just because I want to show some various capabilities that interest me. So I get it. But I thought you might be interested in that just in case you had something else in mind.
Paul
1 16 April, 00:12

@Adam - I love your Aston Martin - can't wait to see the final result!
@Desert Marlin - I loved t-your SUFA, Can't wait to see the Ra'am!
@Dave - would love to see your Falkland builds before I start working on my small armor kits
@Neil - don't know how you pulled off that Revell Tomcat, but you did it!
@Paul - I had originally planned to make this n in-flight Intruder, but the Hasegawa pilots wouldn't fit at all, so I opted to have everything flared out and open as if it was undergoing maintenance. Would these be realistic?
1 17 April, 20:27

CaptGPF,
You bring up a good question. During maintenance, there's no telling what configuration you could find! Then of course there would definitely be various panels open. In this case, probably a lot. And of course there wouldn't be any ordnance on the aircraft during heavy maintenance. It's funny for me, sometimes if I'm doing a historical aircraft on a particular mission, it's really important for me to have all the details (down to the BUNO - Bureau Number), and other times I sort of want to show the capabilities of the aircraft. For example, I'm currently doing another aircraft I flew (S-3B Viking). I'm doing it with a buddy refueling store on the left wing (we almost always flew with that) and a Harpoon on the starboard wing. I personally NEVER saw a Harpoon on a "Hoover", but it was an important capability the Hoover had. If it was going to carry a Harpoon in a conflict, it most likely would carry two Harpoons. So is my configuration "realistic"? Probably not. But I'm doing it for a reason. And of course It's my model! At the very least, it's nice to be able to tell a detractor, " yea, it's not "realistic", but I wanted to show off the capability of the aircraft and I think it looks cool". Just my opinion. And the build looks great.
18 April, 09:59

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10 20 January, 20:50

Air cleaners were created by cutting and stacking Evergreen sheet styrene and then sanding and painting. I came across this idea from another builder of the same kit online from a post from a few years back.
20 January, 20:56

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35 5 March, 22:12

Maybe there is some mold release still on the plastic. Instructions often say to wash parts. I never do and never have had trouble but I guess it's possible?.
6 March, 12:19

Strange. Never had such issue with Italeri truck panels before. Don't think it is ABS - try to glue some sprue bits with Tamiya Extra Thin. I don't think this glue will work on anything that is not styrene. Never used Gaia primer - only using Mr. Surfacer and Mr. Priming Surfacer. Is the Gaia primer lacquer or acrylic? Not sure if you have already did it but try to scuff the panels with Tamiya 3000 or 2000 grit sanding sponge (or similar) before priming. Another idea worth trying is to clean the panel with IPA - maybe the release agent Italeri used don't come off easily with just water and soap.
6 March, 14:41

Oh no guys, this time it's just a straight build...
@Goldman - Yeah As you said, it doesn't seem to be ABS, and I sanded it and used a lacquer surfacer, but strangely the paint didn't stick. Washing with IPA is a good tip, thanks.
6 March, 17:44

Late to the party! Apologies, work has taken over my life 🙁
I'm definitely in for the duration, on this one!
8 March, 06:09

The paint is definitely your issue. Most of my trucks are painted with Tamiya paint. I've never had much luck with model air paint. AK doesn't work for me either. I find it best to use a primer, the lads have already pointed out the best, but I've also used Tamiya primer from a rattle can, as well as decanted. However, I've also used both Tamiya and Mr Colour, straight onto the plastic. Some colours over here, are hard to match, so I go to the automotive store and get the colour I want, and also the matching primer. Again, I decant these into a glass jar, and I leave the lid loose, to allow the gasses to fully disperse from the paint. After a day, I simply add a little cellulose thinner and then mix it up, and airbrush it.
8 March, 06:26

Custom decals - that's new. Really nice design. Looks like a huge amount of work
18 March, 19:05

Great idea scribing the part numbers. I used a POSCA marker to write them (usually the last digit is enough) but it is too easy to erase the POSCA marks by just handling the parts.
20 March, 20:24

Bummer with the fuel tank. I think all metallic paints are hard to mask. Sometimes it works most times you get these (unwanted but very realistic) "chipping" effect.
For fuel tanks I gave up "proper" metallic and just use Mr. Hobby Silver C8. It is not a metallic paint but it looks very good and very durable. Got this tip from Jan Rosecky excellent book "The Complete Guide to Truck Modelling"
7 April, 04:13

When you sand for gloss, don't you have difficulties that when sanding red areas in your instance, the dust ruins the white surfaces?
8 April, 18:10

I guess he used a top layer of clear gloss which was sanded and then polished. So, effectively the colors are protected by the clear coat
8 April, 19:09

@Andre - Yeah, that's correct. I had clear coated twice before sanding. 🙂
@Michael - And in that case, you can erase it by gently wiping it with a compound.
9 April, 02:41

Ah. Thanks for the inside. I understood that you sanded the colors to prepare them for a clear coat. Hence my question. Now it's clear to me.
9 April, 09:17

Italeri do have this kinds of stupid random errors in its kits. Annoying, but since Italeri is the only company that still offers European plastic moulded kits of trucks I guess beggars can't be choosers.
I *think* that there is no clear decal film between the lettering for the tyres to improve appearance. It will be almost impossible to hide the clear film on the rubber tyres. Not sure that having separate letters is the best solution. If you want I think MBM sells PE templates to airbrush the words on tyres.
13 April, 15:57

if the decals are still in the sheet (misaligned but there) its easy to scan, convert to vectors, align, make masks in vinyl and try to paint them with mask 😉 and if decals are gone, well, MS K knows how to vector them, and has the cutter already available 😉
13 April, 19:34

@Spanjaard - I thought about making my own decals, but I was too lazy to change the toner to print white. LOL
And since the base color of the self-made decal shows through a lot, it is better to avoid attaching it on top of a dark color. 😉
13 April, 19:51

i did not say anything about making decals, but masking to airbrush the missing decals 😉
13 April, 20:59

I'm loving what I'm seeing.
Honestly, my expectations were high, but you've done this "stock build" with the right amount of cheeky adaptations. It's not a clever, "this is what you do", it's more of a, "this is the correct way, to make it better"
And like all your other builds I've followed, the MS touch, is fully endorsed 🙂
15 April, 20:39

Super build so far! Attention and hopefully you can fix it: your licensplate at the front belongs to the rear. At the front you only have one round sticker after the letters UL (it's the city of Ulm in Baden Württemberg). The upper *round* sticker is from the TÜV (Technical Inspection Association), which means a road safety inspection. It's attached to the back.
If there were a hexagonal sticker (AU - emission test), the license plate would be for the front. But since 2010, hexagonal stickers have no longer been used.
15 April, 21:04

@Bozzer - Your compliments made me feel good. 😉
@Christian W - Really? I didn't know license plates had that kind of meaning.
I just picked a pretty one and stuck it on without thinking much about it.
I guess I'll have to change the front and back later or cover it with another decal, thanks for the clarification.
1 16 April, 02:37

The question is..
Will this be your last truck, or the first of many?
But seriously, considering you were out of your comfort zone, did you enjoy building your beast?
18 April, 05:26

It was too big and the outer shell was divided, so there was not enough workbench space.
There were many times when it was difficult because there were no instructions on the attachment location or assembly order in the manual, and it was very stressful because the paint did not adhere well.
However, I think the assembly was quite fun.
And I want to make an Actros Grand Prix Edition and decorate it side by side. 😛
18 April, 05:40

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5 图片
Soil
1:35
The next dio was a Fire Support Base (I called it "Manassas") in the Central Highland of Southern Vietnam. Red earth, tr...
Scratchbuilt
1 18 April, 05:07

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59 25 February, 13:40

Nose sanded and first primer test. Fitted the air intakes and did some riveting after rescribing all panel lines. Will check some panels for correct lines and a rough idea where to put rivets.
Thanks for the interest / Danke für das Interesse 🙂
1 25 February, 17:15

More filling and sanding, we will see after priming if the fuselage is smooth now.
14 March, 14:43

Thank you Laurent and Nicolas for your interest and Laurent for the offer! 🙂
As always I am thinking about the colors. I will use Vallejo Model Air and tend to select 71.327 for the lighter shade and 71.143 for the darker. Both seem a little bit too light, but with thin coats over black primer and a dark brown oil wash, this should work i think.
The weapon loadout will be the one mentionen on dstorm.eu hope that makes sense?
14 March, 18:30

yes to DAGUET 1991 = good war armament is MAGIC II , MATRA 530 and ventral reservoir ! for air defens superiority ! on the 2000 under the engine fuselage at the rear, a central decoy box was fitted as a matter of urgency in place of the parachute housing and on both sides!
14 March, 19:25

The files for 3d printing are from cults3d, the engine is linked in the project. The company sells this as STL files on cults or from their own shop as printed resin parts. The missiles are from cults as well, they were free files but the modeler seems to set a price to his models after some time. To be fair, a very reasonable price for the quality! Link: cults3d.com/en/users/Sufa312/3d-models
14 March, 20:33

Thanks for your interest mates. Got the base colors down, next is detail painting and the nozzle.
30 March, 18:22

I am currently doing the decals. Nearly every little bit is wrongly numbered, I am using a picture of Italeri's promo build from the Spielzeugmesse as reference because most is not clear on actual photos of the Mirage. Stay away from this kit if fun is something you want when building a model.
1 4 April, 20:31

Oil washed the underside, trying longer drying time this time. Hope the wash drys and stays in the panel lines.
1 8 April, 19:32

Antennas added, small parts painted and did some additional weathering at the exhaust and overall with the airbrush. I faded the colors a little in some spots and tried to add weathering like in some pictures of this particular aircraft.
1 12 April, 06:55

Finally reached the finish line 🙂 I had my ups and downs with this build, the kit itself is kind of weird. The big underside delta wing piece has nice, finely recessed details. Then there is the fuselage underside with fixed gear bay doors for the front gear. The upper side is more rough, the radar cone is famously wrong for a production aircraft because of the panel lines from the prototype. Where the wings meet the fuselage the fit is not good, with huge gaps on both sides. Just filling them leaves a flat area, so I filled and sanded it multiple times. The riveting I tried is barely visible at all, which is a good thing as I clearly need more practice with this. The pictures from the project banner where my references for the weathering and the panels where the unique desert camo paint is missing. I really like the 3d printed exhaust! The fit was simply perfect, including inside the fuselage. The designers surely knew what they were doing, as this addon was one of or the best fitting part on this kit 👍 😉
There are decals provided for the tank and the missiles, but only the placement of the tank and missiles is mentioned in the instructions, the decals for them not at all.
Overall, a challenging kit for me. Thank you all for the likes and the interest! 🙂
2 17 April, 16:15

Thank you very much @Desert Merlin!
Danke euch, Christian und Neuling! 🙂
1 18 April, 09:50

Salve sono Andolfatto Rodolfo, volevo chiedere se è ancora disponibile il kit del Mi-24 1/72. Saluti Rodolfo
15 April, 07:51

Ciao mi dispiace ma non riesco...hai provato con google trasleter? Ciao Rodolfo
17 April, 21:19

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24 8 August 2024, 14:34

I got a different variant of this kit in the stash and I won't be able to get to it for a while, looking forward to seeing you build yours!
8 August 2024, 15:27

Looking great! I started the version with slat armor, but got pretty frustrated with the seats so it will be finished "buttoned up." You definitely are not having any trouble! As I was doing some research, it looks like the IBG kits aren't really the current BTR-4E, the layout seems more like some of the BTR-4s in Nigerian service.
15 August 2024, 22:25

Hi hiveloc,
I think the version with the slat armor is going to look pretty impressive even being "buttoned up".
Hardly anything of the interior will be seen later, anyway, it's more of a practice for me, I'm afraid 😉
It may be possible that the IBG kit doesn't look like the current Ukrainian BTR-4E (I've seen only very few with the GROM turret), but I also think there are a lot of variants out there atm.
16 August 2024, 07:38

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40 29 July 2021, 19:27

With a construction time of just over 10 months, the model of the Wellington from Trumpeter was my most elaborate model project to date.
It was build with a nearly complete interior, for wich I used the best of different accessory sets from CMK, eduard, Pavla, Quickboost, Brengun and also make some scratchbuild work. The markings for Wellington Mk.Ic R1593, QJ-N of No.149 Sqn. RAF are from Techmod and the painting was done with Tamiya and Mr. Color paints.
29 July 2021, 19:35

Amazing detail work on the engines! Your efforts over 10 months really paid off. 👍
30 July 2021, 10:10

That Wellington looks fantastic. I don't think it can be improved. Even the rope in the engine nacelle! Great work mate.
30 July 2021, 10:19

beautiful work! Only thing missing is the pilot looking out of the open window 🙂
30 July 2021, 17:11

That's amazing. How was the kit as a whole? I heard it goes together pretty easily.
16 December 2021, 04:50

What a fantastic build. This is a great kit of an important RAF bomber which often gets overlooked. You have done a wonderful job Christoph. Knocked it out of the park....top job Sir.
16 December 2021, 07:40

impressive additions and scratch building with which you improved the kit. But that is negliable compared to the paint job you did. The way you worked out the surface details is great. I particularly like the unterside too with the worn black paint. This looks very convincing.
16 December 2021, 11:52

Thank you very much Flight Line Media, Gary and Michael for the new additional comments. I am very pleased that you like the Wellington 😊 Overall, the kit was easy to build.
16 December 2021, 14:27

Amazing detail 😎
late to it but will be using it as inspiration and ref for my build
18 April, 09:07

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24 28 December 2024, 05:16

"Removing seams from roadwheels the Jakko way." Thanks for the shout-out 🙂
Though TBH, I find it takes about as long as clamping the wheel in a vice and scraping the seam down — the lathe is less effort but not really a timesaver, IMHO. Could be that's down to my lack of lathing skills, though.
15 January, 09:46

As the kit is missing many parts, l will try 3d printing / scratchbuilding the missing parts. My resin printer isn't a very good one so it can be hard to get things to print correctly.
28 January, 05:31

Quick tip: you don't need to take photos of your screen — press ⇧⌘4 instead 🙂
28 January, 09:57

There is a lot of work to do to remove the supports. I did a quick and dirty pass on one side and it fits perfectly!
I scaled running gear and tracks from a 1:56 stl by 175% to get to 1:32 and it fits properly.
28 January, 23:25

All missing parts 3d printed by upscaling from 1:56 to 1:32. Suspension and tracks won't be glued on til after painting. Same with radio antenna as I'll just break it off if I add it now.
6 March, 03:05

I see you manage to do 3d printing 😮 lucky you. The tracks and bogies look wonderful 👍
1 16 March, 22:56

Pretty soon, with 3D printing, the only limit will be our imagination.
1 17 March, 19:53

That, and the time and effort you want to put into learning how to use the software and the printer … Both of which are what's kept me from wanting to do this myself 🙂
17 March, 21:07

Got kind of an acceptable gloss pink outcome. Respect to the car builders I see on here who put down perfect gloss coats!
2 20 March, 12:32

Painting the one part track and suspension takes a lot. I have literally worn out one brush so far, scrubbing in all the nooks and crannies.
30 March, 02:24

Like it, like it. Down to the leopard print blanket. Aerosmiths Pink is now my earworm. 🤘🥸👍
17 April, 17:12

That's part of my problem with it 😛 I don't like it AND it sticks in your head …
18 April, 08:39

Perhaps topic Vehicles>>Busses should be changed to >>Buses (with one s); the more common spelling.
1 18 April, 08:35

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12 图片
Eduard 7470 FW 190A-5
1:72
The next job was to create patches of RLM 70 and 71 , leaving the wing crosses so that the original camouflage shows thr...
2 18 April, 07:46

Thanks Gorby, still a few opportunities remaining for me to totally.stuff it up! 🤣
1 18 April, 08:31

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Mitsubishi A6M Type 32 „Hamp“ (the one with clipped wings…)
1:48
Adding a wash. I think that Rabaul based planes were not that clean. So I give the Hamp an overall cover of brown on the...
22 6 April, 15:20

I can't imagine the kind of control and patience you have to have to apply the paint this way around those decals, especially with no overspray. Just amazing
1 13 April, 04:14

@ Rando: thank you for nice comment! In fact it was easier than I thought. I thinned the paint carefully and removed the front cap of airbrush to have better control. I always think that in the field the mechanics also did not care about smooth finish so even some mishaps are ok
18 April, 08:18

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31 14 January, 09:36

Michael, I have space for three tanks on the shelf 🙂 But I would gladly make four.
18 April, 08:06

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7 17 October 2023, 23:48

Another kit that proved poor fitment at final assembly. Otherwise a fun build.
18 October 2023, 19:08

This model available ? Thank you.
17 April, 21:41

Scalemates is not a shop. Some companies and members use it to sell items but the site itself does not. Your best bet is to search for it online, although I suspect it's quite rare.
18 April, 07:30
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