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41 16 February, 15:49

Today I made a start on the BV 141, cockpit painted with Vazllejo Model Air RLM02. Crew added. 🙂
Welcome Matti & Finn, hopefully this strange aircraft will take shape soon. 👍
Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Lukasz G & Franck G. 👍
9 March, 17:29

I hope that model doesn't cause too much trouble. I've never seen it done so I'm looking forward to it!
1 14 March, 04:28

Fuselage and wings now together. 🙂
I think the main issue will be the amount of transparencies and whether or not they fit sufficiently Djordje. I have dry fitted them and they do seem ok though. 👍
Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Matt T, Djordje N, Vincent & 1 other mate. 👍
1 16 March, 17:57

I'm in. I love the asymetrical concept of the late 30s and early 40s Blohm & Voss planes.
1 16 March, 18:11

Wings, fuselage and cupola all together now. Next will be masking the canopies and fitting them. 🙂
Welcome Nicolas & Dave! 👍
Many thanks mate for your interest and like Pietro DA. 👍
19 March, 15:47

Canopies and masks attached (quite a lot of them!). Engine nose now attached. 🙂
22 March, 16:39

Primer and pre-shading added. 🙂
Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Живко Джаков, Mark K, Bernd G, David RM & 1 other mate. 👍
29 March, 17:07

Underside painted with Vallejo Model Air RLM65 Light Blue and in the wheel wells, RLM02. 🙂
A warm welcome to you Villiers. 👍
Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Alexander R, Villiers DV & 1 other mate. 👍
31 March, 15:11

Upper side of aircraft painted with first of two colours for the splinter camouflage, Vallejo Model Air Dark Green RLM71. 🙂
Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Fritz01 & Neil. 👍
5 April, 15:17

Vallejo Model Air RLM70 Black Green splinter camouflage added. 🙂
Good to have you along Ben, welcome! 👍
Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Marcel C, Dom SAVE & 1 other mate. 👍
8 April, 15:52

Looks really good so far. I remember seeing this in an airplane book when I was a kid.
8 April, 17:18

Decals now added. The tail decal is from a after market decal source. Next will be the undercarriage etc and a coat of matt varnish. 🙂
Thanks for the kind comment Ben, greatly appreciated. 👍
Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Antoine M, Calvin G, Alberto M & Mr D. 👍
14 April, 15:34

Finally completed, undercarriage attached, masks taken off transparencies, other bits added. 🙂
The BV 141 denoted in this build is BV 141B-2 or V 10 and was first flown on 1 June 1941. The BV 141B was flown with a BMW 801 engine. Although never operational, it was planned to send some BV 141s to the Eastern Front but this was cancelled in 1942. The preferred FW 189 Uhu was accepted into operational use by the RLM rather than the BV 141 due in part to the lack of availability of the BMW 801 engines. 28 were built.
Many thanks mates for your interest and likes J35J & SM. 👍
16 April, 15:31

Many thanks Ben, Mark, Nicolas, Matti & Dave for your kind comments, I greatly appreciate them. 👍
Many thanks mates for your interest and likes John H, Ben M, Mark K, Nicolas, Tony T, Chris, strds 90 & 2 other mates. 👍
20 April, 15:08

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21 April, 13:37

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20 28 January, 14:06

Thanks Boozer. But I think I will build my Unimog first before building this truck. So I won't run out of kits. I always wanted to buy the recovery truck and convert it to a German one, simply changing the cab to a Mercedes Benz Actros or MAN TGM.
1 10 February, 07:55

I also got that kit recently! Looking forward to your modifications. My one will be probably just out of the box
1 11 February, 18:59

I seem to remember KFS used to offer a off-road conversion kit for MAN trucks. I'm pretty sure it at least included the bumper which might be hard to scratch build if you can't print it. Can't find the kit anymore tho
2 28 February, 11:11

I searched on the internet for this kit but I couldn't find it either. We will see how this trick turns out
28 February, 12:25

Just realized the bumper out of the box is accurate for offroad already since it's a 4x4, and the same as in your pictures. I had started working on a similar project but with the older MAN TGA kit from Revell as a basis and that required heavy modifications all around. I'm glad you're moving towards more custom projects because they are a lot of fun to get into, and watch other people get into...
1 1 March, 15:25

Nice stocking up and scratch building... Should be a very interesting build.
Actually, I never saw this concept of fire truck with a rear lift and wheeled equipment carts. Can see the benefits of this when a lot of equipment needed to be moved fast (at least until hitting the first step...).
1 6 March, 17:59

Thanks Goldman. There is another reason why these trucks make sense: You can carry different stuff which is normally loaded by special vehicles. So you don't need different vehicles just this one and the equipment carts and you are ready for nearly everything
7 March, 07:04

The headlights guard looks very good to me. Did you use plastic or metal rods? I don't think you can get any thinner with plastic
1 17 March, 05:10

Thank you Goldman! I used cables. I bended them to the right shape. The outer and inner parts are from the same cable just with and without isolation
1 17 March, 06:14

The tires looks great. Much better than those in the kit. Well worth the investment
20 March, 20:25

I have had some success printing thin parts for the kind of headlight detail you are working on. They are very fragile and I've never tried painting them but I think there's a lot of potential for this kind of application. I uploaded a picture here: FDM 3D Printer experiments | Album by Ecko
21 March, 11:25

Currently I don't have a 3D printer but I think of buying a resin printer for such purposes. It would help me a lot with scratch building. Lets see wat the future brings
1 21 March, 11:50

Just make sure that you are aware of potential hazards that come along with resin printing.
1 21 March, 20:45

Yes handling resin and post processing it takes a lot of extra work to do properly. And space too. I can't do it at home because I live in a flat with my cat and I have found a filament 3d printer can unlock many possibilities to enhance scratch builds without the hassle and hazards of resin.
21 March, 21:28

I've gotta admit, I had fun with my entry level filament printer, but I now own 3 resin printers too, and they're never turned off. Yes, they do have to be taken care of, especially with regards to the resin, but it's worth it.
At this point I'd better add, all mine are in my purpose built mancave, however I did run them in the house kitchen, for a while.
Each one has it's own personality, kinda like a cat or a car? But once you hone into it, you can create almost anything? The details are immense and your own imagination, is your limit!
I've literally just printed a 1/14 truck, with all the bells and whistles, and I'm happy with the results. It's taken me around 2 weeks, but I did use 6 bottles of High Speed Resin, which without, probably would've taken me another 3-4 weeks?
For you guys in the know, Standard resin prints at roughly 4 layers a minute. High Speed Resin is around 12 layers a minute.
My love for the printers, is because I can print models, that we can't buy?
I love scratchbuilding, but now I can flick my finger and the cab, hood and sleeper are printing, while I'm building the chassis? It's definitely been a game changer in my life, without a doubt.
You definitely need to be aware of the dangers though. Plenty of ventilation, gloves, mask and goggles. I also have mini air purifiers in each printer, and heaters.
And whatever you do, don't smoke near the 99% alcohol!
And most importantly, don't drink it!
2 25 March, 17:26

Thank you Bozzer for your information and opinion. I will see what the future brings and if it's time to by a printer, I will definitely research and inform myself about it a little more and maybe come back to you guys, because you know the terms of 3D printers definitely better than I.
And don't worry, I do not smoke or drink alcohol. So this won't be a problem 🙂
1 25 March, 18:22

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7 21 April, 07:09

It looks very nice but how can they call it a full detail kit, it has no engine or suspension/steering detail, and I suspect it's an unlicensed product.
21 April, 13:17

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13 13 April, 17:33

Very nice work on the cockpit Christian. Your use of PE is excellent. Did you remove a molded on seatbelt?
13 April, 18:17

Thanks. Yes I removed the seatbelt. It Was easier then I thought.
13 April, 18:45

Nicely done! I had to ask because there is no trace of the original molded on seatbelt. Very impressive
1 13 April, 19:18

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22 7 August 2024, 12:51

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15 20 April, 17:55

Thanks. These are pics from an old model. I should have improve Sinne then
21 April, 12:42

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24 21 January, 21:20

Very nice build Randy! How are your experiences with Flyhawk? I'm curious about this brand.
1 28 January, 15:01

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8 6 March, 16:37

I figured since ive built the charles w morgan whaler i would build her sister ship the wanderer....
6 March, 21:17

Is this the same scale as your last one. If so this will be a good looking bookends.
1 6 March, 22:50

Hello dave
Its 1/87 a bit bigger it will go on top ( if all goes well) ha ha and the morgan will go inside of cabinet i think the morgan is 1/110 its box scale ( 1968)
Thanks
6 March, 23:09

Well so far so good....
Those 60's decals i had to pull off of the backing!!!! Whew...
Also im impressed with the details in my opinion it rivals even some of todays kits
10 March, 01:58

Ha ha ...
Yeah the fun starts... i am looking forward to it though... also to the molded sails/ yards im curious what i can do with them...
24 March, 02:12

Never seen this kit before looking like a easy build so far, nice paintjob 👍
1 24 March, 09:09

Thanks dietmar
Its old aurora 1966 well made ive never built this one i think i built the cutty sark as a kid. Too bad they are out of business
24 March, 11:10

Cant do anything mast wise until they set.. so working on the molded sails they havent turned out too bad
30 March, 16:43

Thanks lochsa river wasnt quite sure on the sails but they are shaping up for what they are
30 March, 21:38

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21 April, 12:31

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29 15 June 2024, 13:35

Nice result. Is this the Trumpeter additional PE or another brand? I recently acquired that. I read about somebody assembling that from the upside down deck, and now I see it assembled from the hull up. What would be the best solution?
20 April, 22:38

It is the Trumpeter PE set. As far as assembling it from the deck downwards …. Hmmm, I'd have to think about that…? That's certainly an out of the box solution. Off the top of my head, building it UP (the way I did) allows for a "multitude of sins" to be compensated for at the end when the flight deck is put on. You just don't notice glue compensating for less than perfect fit under the flight deck. It's hard to see and dark. Dropping the flight deck DOWN to the main deck will allow those "sins" to be exposed on the main deck where they will be more noticeable. Is that what you were referring to or something else? Some of the PE stantions just didn't fit perfectly. You can see it in a couple of photos. Maybe operator error.
2 20 April, 22:48

Absolutely beautiful work. love the details. just curious as to how hard it was painting the figures.
21 April, 00:53

The build log for that upside down technique I found here:forum.finescale.com/..eakthrough/257372/28 . But it also has its problems because the columns for carrying the deck did not fit well in the hull. The author also replaced some of the cross latticework by heavier plastic parts, it might be the part you mentioned as error. I hope I will be able to use it, when I get to find an affordable ship kit. I love how you added the resin figures.
1 21 April, 09:46

Dave,
Not as hard as it looks probably. I definitely used my head mounted super glasses. A quick swipe of flesh color for face and hands, brown for hair, dark blue for trousers and light blue for shirt and didn't worry too much about the details. It's a little difficult to see with the super glasses so it's REAL HARD for the naked eye to see when looking at it. So I'd summarize by saying it's actually not as challenging as it looks. That being said …some calm music and a cold glass of before is not a bad idea. 😎
2 21 April, 11:31

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10 图片
Blade Wing Prototype
1:72
Windows masked and cockpit piece painted in interior colour
4 20 April, 09:13

I use Monocure Crystal Clear Pro 3D Printer Resin (an Australian brand). I've had good success with it, using an Elegoo Mars 2P printer.
20 April, 14:27

Thanks guys, and welcome. This one might go slowly, unless I can find an STL for Hera as a pilot, and Sabine as the gunner. If anybody has any sources - let me know.
21 April, 01:20

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25 11 April 2022, 01:39

Wow! Fantastic work!
Fine paint job and really like the water effect👏
16 July 2022, 22:28

ok, the sides of the base may not be the most beautiful ever. but the rest is excellent!!! specially the water effects. i would suggest to give some putty to base, and paint it. this beautiful dio deserves it 🙂
17 November 2022, 10:11

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9 图片
Bandai B-Wing
1:72
Cockpit windows masked and framing painted cockpit colour (dark sea grey)
3 20 April, 08:56

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26 17 October 2021, 07:32

Great result, looks nice!!
Which color did you use?
Can you tell my the fs number or what you have used?
3 November 2021, 08:59

I love this model (not mentioning the real machine 😉 ) Congrats!
5 November 2021, 05:48

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88 5 January, 10:30

Welcome to the first kit in my life that I can call overengineered for sure.
The white parts are scratched to take the place of PE parts or offerings to the carpet monster (did I mention I have no carpet in here?)
Cockpit solely contains 21 parts (including PE) + decals (fuselage walls not included) 😮
You have been warned.
5 January, 10:37

Woww... I like the overengineered from Łukasz 😉
I can't resist to follow it 😛
5 January, 18:57

It will be slow, I can assure you 😄
And I might need stronger magnifying glasses too 🙁
5 January, 20:30

Welcome Gents to this very frustrating project.
The designer(-s?) went full ahead towards the full compliance with the original as far as I can see.
There is maybe 1/4th of the cockpit visible now (w/o the canopy!) and they really think that a plastic mast glued to transaprent windshield can withstand the rigging.
15 January, 21:12

Łukasz, I think it would have been better to make the Amodel's kit because of the great experience you have with those hard old tools, 😛
The last part with the mast and rigging seems very complicated. It might be better to drill a little carefully into the windshield so as not to glue the mast flush and try not to make it too weak with the wire tauting.
17 January, 19:54

True señor, considering starting a Hansa Jet or sth like that next 😄
And regarding the mast - this is exactly what I did - drilled a 0.4mm hole to insert 0.3mm tube, squeezed flat on the inside part (the outer part will be made flat later).
The only problem was - I damaged the PE gunsight inside, so I had to rob one from the second kit in the twin set.
17 January, 20:42

It can be considered the very last branch of the Polish gull-wing family - the rear fuselage and tail were incorporated from P.24 licence production line.
17 January, 20:56

Welcome Jennifer & Stefan!
I finally started spraying the main colours, the first layer being the famous pink primer 🙂 and RLM04 soon after.
Warning to all future builders: watch out for the cowling, in my case the fit was appaling.
22 January, 19:53

Well, the detailing of this kit kept me frustrated more and more - so it landed on the shelf of doom.
It turned out I wanted the fuselage band to be too yellow and I flodded the damn rivets. And then when trying to wash the paint off, I took wrong bottle (Mr Hobby Tool Cleaner instead of the levelling thinner) and I melted some rivets completely.
No idea when I'll go back to it, maybe if I buy a very tiny riveter, who knows...
Thanks for watching
22 January, 20:40

That's a shame, it was looking very good.
Galaxy Tools do a good and reasonably priced riveting tool which I would recommend:
scalespot.com/review..axy-rivet/review.php
1 23 January, 10:15

Many thanks mates.
I'm looking at various riveters, but the fact I can barely see the rivets in 1/72 makes their restoration a challenge on its own.
I definitely need a break from that kit, perhaps I should switch to this one (being A-model mold actually) 😛
IAR-80A (SOVA-M SVM-72013, 1:72)
1 23 January, 10:30

It's a shame to read that, Łukasz 🙁
It was meant to be. Felicia is calling you 😛
Maybe you can use some parts in the Amodel/SOVA kit.
23 January, 18:59

That looks totally salvageable. I have the Galaxy tools riveter too, it is quite usable. Bought mine from eBay directly from China
23 January, 19:15

Łukasz, yes, probable salvageable, but I know the feeling when you just cannot make yourself backtrack your steps and rather start over again.
23 January, 20:00

I'll have a closer look at the riveters, I promise. Not sure my sight will follow, I might need some magnifying glass too.
Let's see if my budget can cope with both 😄
1 23 January, 20:47

I am sad to see you stop this project, it's a pity, hopefully some day.
1 24 January, 23:19

Alright, I went back to it way faster than I initially thought 😄
Bought two sets of riveters and 0,3mm turned out to be the one.
I need to correct the left side of the fuselage before applying the yellow again.
4 7 February, 20:36

Started spraying the undersides today, fingers crossed all these rivets survive that 😄
2 9 February, 20:48

Looking really Good Lukasz 😃👍 Like you put the antenna through the windscreen.. correct. I relocated my one to the side as was worried about breaking glass as was stupid thin!
You got cowling nice in the end.
Good luck with the next steps 👍👍
15 February, 16:15

Cool to see you back at this project again! The riveting looks good and the paintjob is awesome too!
15 February, 22:11

Good to see you continued this project. The restored rivets and the paintjob are looking great.
16 February, 09:04

Good to see you continued too. I agree with mates. Restored rivets and painting job looks great 👍
16 February, 19:37

Thanks everyone, I just sealed the little Romanian bugger for decalling.
Seems like most of the rivets are more-less visible, should be enough for an airplane that is not meant to boost the Exhibitionary Air Force 😄
16 February, 20:30

The rivets still look good even after your paint layers. Overall looking good Lukasz.
1 16 February, 21:54

This looks better and better, I am so glad that you didn't quit but decided to push through.
18 February, 05:44

Welcome back - this break was caused by searching a shade to darken the yellow as Techmod decals turned out to be darker than recommended RLM04.
4 22 March, 20:42

So where is the photo of the damage? The last picture looks pretty impressive if you ask me. You do know you can order a bag of 50 to 100 watch wheels online for about 15 bucks. They are used parts but you can make plenty of riveters out of them.
6 April, 00:38

Well, pics 12 to 15, but my hands were a bit shaky, I was so irritated 🙂
Meanwhile the little annoying IAR made it across the finish line.
Only 3 pics tonight, I'll take some more in the daylight tomorrow, brace yourselves, the Hangar is coming 😄
9 April, 20:49

I'm excited about the hangar and the daylight shots. Even in the artificial light, it looks good.
1 10 April, 06:16

Many thanks for your motivating comments, much appreciated. 👍
Daylight pics added, enjoy!
10 April, 20:37

Wow... I finally see this one and it looks fantastic. I really like it. I have to buy one.
Congrats!
1 11 April, 17:43

@Łukasz, I only want one. I need to see if I can scam someone with the Amodel kit so I don't throw it away to stash 😄
1 11 April, 19:10

Well done Lukasz 🍀👍👍 great job ...got it over the finish line 👏 very nice...like the extra rivets on the fuselage.
Top job.
1 11 April, 20:15

Glad you got to finish it! 👍
That cowling tho...totally unexpected from a new tool...
2 18 April, 21:23

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26 3 February, 19:23

Oh no, I leave the site for a few days and attract onlookers! 🤣….will post some shots soon…the detail's good so far for 72nd….
10 February, 23:48

I guess the observer may need some massage treatments on his back and neck after each mission🥹🥹🥹 following
1 11 February, 02:28

@Lorraine, yes - these planes weren't built for comfort….champagne for every successful mission return though?….
1 11 February, 23:12

I think one of the worst RAF planes for relative combat losses to number flown? Slow and defensively weak. I never built this as a kid, so intrigued by this offering!
12 February, 20:48

Andy, despite this, it will look great in the display case 😉
Nice interiors 👍
1 13 February, 19:30

Let me find a chair for this one. I don't know if helps any but I find in a pitch painted tamiya masking tape works well for seat belts.
1 17 March, 05:02

Good evening Villiers, Dave and Nicolas…
Dave I admire your comment on seat belts but one has to keep the global wine industry going with a foil capped harness…photos to come!
3 19 March, 23:41

Thanks Nicolas and others, just put some more progress shots on this project. The fit is up there with Tamiya and very intricate detailed parts. Similar to the Hobby Boss Sunderland. But clearly the best Battle in 72nd
1 17 April, 19:31

Somehow I missed the beginning, but from now I will follow your build-log with pleasure and interest, Andy 🙂
17 April, 19:45

Thanks Robert, Alec, Cuajete, and David, glad to have such discerning eyeballs on the build!….managed to lose the front windshield- so trying their customer service to see if there's a replacement service….🥴😞
19 April, 14:42

@David- I hear there are many issues with Trump's 48'er?….
@Ł- so far they've come back to me and maybe able to help…I am not sure if it's me, but hunting high and low reveals no piece 🥴
21 April, 11:54

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14 3 June 2022, 09:08

I'll stick around for this, if that's ok? Keen to pick up some ideas and tips.
14 May 2023, 21:47

Well I've got a few resin transkits now, so I'm interested in how you modify everything to fit, and obviously the prep work that's needed to be done, before you hit the paint booth? I'm aware that resin doesn't like certain substances, so what are you going to use?
16 May 2023, 03:23

It's mostly a lot of test fitting. I was able to get drawings of the original including dimensions which helped. I made the mistake of accepting the trans kit instructions for some of the build steps and discovered that the front axle was 2.4mm too far forward. This was why I ended up scratch building the front springs. I use a lot of reference material (mostly from the internet) and draw to scale any parts I need to make. To take measurements I use a selection of steel rulers, compass and a micrometer as well as Tamiya tape for curved sections. I'll try and include some examples. I always wash the resin in warm soapy water and air dry. To paint I use Mr Surfacer as a primer - this helps show up any imperfections or bubbles in the resin and is also a filler. Larger holes I use either cyanoacrylate and accelerant, sanding straight away as it is much harder than the resin when fully cured. I also use Green Stuff and Mr White Putty. As the Mr Surfacer is a filler as well it dries quite evenly and only needs a light rub over with 2000 grade wet and dry sandpaper. I usually use Zero Paints over the primer as although they smell they airbrush well and are rapid drying.
16 May 2023, 14:51

Excellent information! I look forward to seeing this come together! I have a Mack F type, Diamond T, Mack R 700 and a few others, that escape my memory. I'll try not to chip in, and give everyone else a chance to comment. Thanks again buddy 👍
16 May 2023, 20:25

That amount of attention to detail, is amazing, David. It's also nice to see your scale drawings. I've done several myself, in the past! I find it helps, to get a picture of the actual part, and make any modifications, before you build it? You actually got me to think about costs, when building a model. If you took a normal Italeri kit, at roughly £80, then started adding the additional features and parts, you can easily put a top price of £200 and up, depending on how much you want to add? And that's before paint! I've just painted my 1/14 Grand Hauler and the paint alone, with clear coat, has taken me upto nearly £200. But, it's better than blowing it down the pan, in the local boozer, and you have something to show, for your hard work.
10 April, 02:42

I admire your tidiness David. I keep everything in my head which mean a lot of unnecessary work fixing build sequence errors or fiddling with parts until they fit but I this is how I roll.
Good to see you back Bozzer. I started to get a little worried not seeing any comment from you for over a week.
Actually, I think scale truck modelling (at least in its basic form) is one of the cheapest hobby around per hour of (mostly) enjoyment. Of course, you need some initial investment in airbrush, compressor, spray booth etc. but most of these stuff should last for years. You can get an Italeri kit for around 50-60 EUR, and a jar of paint and some other sundries for about 20-30 EUR. I need about 40 hours to build a model so it come out to about 2 EUR per hobby hour - not bad. Unfortunately, if you get tired of Italeri standard top-of-the-line 4x2 tractor unit and want to modify it a little things starting to get a little crazy - for example most of KFS (beautifully made) suspension conversions are 50-60EUR each (before postage) - more than the cost of the kit itself. Maybe 3D printing will help reduce the cost of these add-ons. BTW, is there a way to have general discussing in Scalemates instead of hi-jacking someone album?
10 April, 04:32

Thanks Bozzer and Goldman for your comments. You're both right, the kit itself is (relatively) cheap and can be made into a reasonable replica with some time and effort. As this is my first truck model I've also kept a spreadsheet with costs to track my spend on this project and am over £1500 so far, including paint and materials. Admittedly this is quite high, but I've also got spare parts now that will be used on other builds so reduces costs for subsequent truck models. It doesn't help that some of the parts (like the power steering fluid reservoir) are only available as part of another update kit (GP Modelling Detroit Diesel 60) and have been bought for just one part. It would be great if aftermarket suppliers would sell individual items to prevent this happening.
10 April, 11:19

You can do a helluva lot of 3D printing for £1500 David! Might be worth investing instead of buying an entire kit for one part!
13 April, 05:02

These days, you can get a lot of files for free. You can also scale and customise files, for your own needs. It sounds easy, and it realistically is, but you need to have a play with your slicer. Obviously, if you know someone who has already done it, they can explain a lot to you, without having to go around the world, figuring things out? I was one of those around the world guys! But I have to admit, it's very enjoyable, once you build your print, and it actually works.
David, I picked up a 2nd hand, hardly used, Anycubic M5s, with a Wash and Cure, 6 bottles of resin, and 2 air purifiers, for £100 on eBay. If you look, you can find some excellent deals. Just go for the cleanest, newest, closest machine, to you. Then, give it a go? I use Anycubic, because I like the app. I can slice everything on my laptop and even remotely print, from my Android phone. I'm not saying that it's the best of the best technology out there, but it serves me well, and I now print a lot. And obviously, if you do decide to jump in to printing, and get stuck or just have questions, feel free to shoot me a message? Always happy to help out, where I can. But most definitely, you could've saved yourself a lot of that £1500, by doing it yourself 👍
13 April, 06:27
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