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Doubtingmango
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Ingmar Stöhr
Nice progress so far! Overall nice paintjob, but maybe try to use a little less paint on the railings. I see a lot of small paint balls forming there.

Guy Rump
Great job so far, following. 👍

Miguel Vaquero
Following!

Chrisswe
Thanks for your interest and comments. I did something wrong with the primer when painting the railings which caused the paint balls. Also I'm not great at working with PE yet and the glue residue is often visible even if try to paint over it. All in all I still think I'm making some improvements compared to my last build. Rigging will be my greatest challenge for this build.

Ingmar Stöhr
Ah, ok! Well yes, your glue is visible here an there, but otherwise I find your application of PE is not bad at all! What works for me with railings is to hold them in place with one hand (and tweezers) and with the other hand apply a tiny amount of very thin super glue from a piece of thin copper wire fixed to a toothpick as handle. This will instantly wick into the gap and also instantly fix the railing in place. After that I paint over the seam with the appropriate colour and mostly end up with very nice glue joints.

Chrisswe
That is probably the correct way to do it Ingmar. I find it difficult to only use the thin super glue as it has zero adhesive effect until it bonds. I use super glue gel to fix one end of the railing and then use your method for the rest.

Chrisswe
I'm testing a grey-brown panel liner instead of the black one I used for all of my last ship. It looks good closeup but might be to subtle when you look at the whole ship. Is it a bad idea to use anything else than black panel liner even on lighter colours when doing 1:350 scale?

Ingmar Stöhr
Actually super glue should set / cure / stick faster the thinner it is. A gel does lengthen the setting time. I start at one side, place the railing, put a tiny bit of thin super glue at the joint and it will typically set withing 2-3 seconds. Then I move a bit further down, align the PE, put glue there and so on. What also increases the setting time is a larger gap. If the gap ist very small and the glue very thin it will usually literally set instantly.

I like my wash with a lot of contrast. On my modern US Navy builds (kind of a medium gray) I will use blue-black panel line wash from AMIG. On a lighter gray, as with the superstructure on DKM units, that might be a bit to much contrast though.

Chrisswe
I will try to master the thin super glue but I think the sticky property of the gel before it cures is very helpful. I can still use gel when gluing where it will not be visible at all.
Another thing I have done differently with this build is to just base paint the details and railings before I attach them to the superstructure and hulI. I will gloss coat, weather, matt coat and oil highlight the superstructure mostly built together but excluding the masts and funnels. I will do the same thing with the hull with everything added except main guns.
I noticed the super glue attacks the paint much more than when everything was already gloss and matt coated before gluing but maybe the end result will be better.

Ingmar Stöhr
Strange. I never have noticed my glue attacking or damaging the painted surfaces. Usually, I build my ships in sections which get painted separately before final assembly. Also, I always airbrush my railing before gluing it to the model. There will be scratches from tweezers, but for me it is much easier to make some touch-ups than to brush paint the whole railing on the ship.

Chrisswe
Could the glue react differently because I use Mr Hobby Lacquer paint this time and Tamiya Acrylic paint for my last build?

Jan Peters
Taking a seat, following this 👀

Gerrit Rost
The "new" revell modell is a nice job to do, the old one was terror 😜

Chris T. An
Welcome Jan and Gerrit. And yes, the old 1963 model is horrible. this "new" one from 1997 is much better.

Gerrit Rost
If you take the landing gear inside, place some small parts of spruey under the doors for better fit in the boxes, especially for the front wheel