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Bozzer
I'm glad to see, that it's not just me, who does all this type of prep work. I've spent far too much time and money, on tools, gizmo's and fabrication of various things, just to try and speed up this process. Yet, I still end up falling back to the back of a #11 knife blade!
I'll hang around for this one mate, mainly to see the outcome of those amazing decals. But also to watch how the trailer goes together?
I helped my son build the Spacecab, way back in the early 2000's. He didn't enjoy it and abandoned his efforts 🙁 No wonder he became a plumber 😛

Martin Oostrom
Kerry Cox taught Peter Hardy and Peter taught me: "Better remove those lines, you'll always know they're there."
I mostly use the cutting edge of the blade to scrape, I'll try the back sometime.
I assembled the chassis today and it seems perfectly straight. A lot of work remains before I can start on the decals.

Bozzer
If you draw the edge, of the back of the blade, it gives you a nice smooth, flat surface. It also doesn't dull your sharp blade? After a while, it becomes second nature. I have found, that those nasty mold lines, show up even more, when paint is applied? Even when I glue two parts together, it's always the back of the knife, that deals with the seam. You should definitely try it, and see if you notice the difference.

Lode Schildermans
Following. Martin and trucks and trailers, always surprising

Bozzer
He's got this, Lode. Martin is the Plastic Surgeon 😉

Spanjaard
I am in 🙂

Martin Oostrom
The doctor is in 😄
I managed some work on the axles Tuesday evening and I had half a day to myself yesterday. So I built the box with a lot of added plastic to get everything squared. I'll be sanding the outside and I don't want the thing to fold.
The mudflaps were unconvincing , so I went to town on them. Your opinions please?

Bozzer
I've heard of guys, filling in reefers, with expanding foam?
I've never personally done it, because I like the option of opening doors. Those mudflaps look so much better now, too.

Martin Oostrom
Mmm, insulation foam in a reefer….
There is/was a load of cyanide in that stuff. Not something I want to emit in my hobby room.
My 2k also contains cyanide, but those vapours are mainly vented outside

Bozzer
I have never checked mate, and I've used it for sealing gaps, etc, for decades? However, I've definitely not used it on any models. In fairness though, all my current reefers are from AMT. I love the fact that they use 1 piece plastic, for the sides, base and top. It definitely makes them sturdy. I do have a few Italeri reefers though, and I was thinking about lining them with thin plastic? I don't want to compromise the look, so I thought maybe some 1mm sheet, would work? What do you think mate?

Martin Oostrom
Lining with 1mm sheet is a possibility, but … see my new picture. On both sides there are two half rods running the whole length of the trailer and the ceiling is littered with protruding ejection marks.
The floor is smooth as the ejection marks are on the underside.
This Revell edition has water slide decals, the Italeri reefer I have has two big stickers for each side. Will be hell to line up, so I'll probably paint something.

Bozzer
On large decals, it's best to cut them into 3. It just makes things easier. I honestly wouldn't have a clue what to do with stickers though? That's exactly what I have, on my Smokey and the Bandit 2 trailer.
Which reminds me...
Jerry from Modeltruckin, is retiring. Last orders are being taken upto end of July. Get them decals ordered mate, before you can't get them again!

Bozzer
I just took a closer look at your pictures. I see those rails now. I'm guessing that they were a feature, to stop pallets from ramming up tight to the side, on the 1:1 version? The injection pin marks, I can Dremel away. You've actually got me thinking about digging out one of my reefers now, lol

Martin Oostrom
In the real one, there will be a strip with slits to secure the cargo. But those are generally not that high and low. See picture.

Bill Newcomer
Late to the party. (I have been really busy with my wife's garden and my 1:1 car) Following. Making your box square and straight looks like quite the endeavor.

Martin Oostrom
Dry fitting the door showed a small gap between them. I later added a strip of styrene to the back. Stiffening the doors by accident.
I removed the moulded rear lights, only realising too late that they're hollow. A thin sheet of styrene helped. I also glued a strip to the storage bins. Too much sanding otherwise. Now all trailer parts are ready for painting.

Lode Schildermans
Definitely impressed, Martin. Smart building by improving stability in the beginning of the build. I particularly like the improvements with styrene

Martin Oostrom
Don't tell anybody Lode. There'll be some pe on it. 🤫

Bozzer
I wonder if that PE is going to be the bars and locking system, for the back doors?

Lode Schildermans
I shall be silent as a grave, Martin

Martin Oostrom
Wait and see Bozzer!

Bozzer
Oh Martin, you tease! 😛

Martin Oostrom
Primer's on! It took over 4 hours to paint the truck and trailer in my tiny booth.

Martin Oostrom
I spent a couple of hours cleaning up some parts that I cut of the frame

Bozzer
These curbside chassis, really upset me. Just like the Volvo VN. If the manufacturer, went to the trouble, of making an engine, and separate frame parts, with other kits, then why would they cheap out, on kits like these? I love what you're doing with this though. Keep the pictures coming, buddy 👍

Martin Oostrom
I didn't put up pictures of all the cutting and sanding. A summary:
All parts are cut, sanded and glued where possible. Only a few drops of filler were needed.
The cab consists of 10 parts that need to be positioned just right. **** job, but I think I managed.
Next up: Primer.

Martin Oostrom
And primer is on after a monster session. 200ml primer + 50ml SLT = just enough.
Primer is zero paints grey. But a dirty grey.