Panzerkampfwagen IV Ausf.D

James C
The Panzer IV was a huge gap to fill in my WW2 build list, and I had (still have) a number of examples in my stash dating from the 1970's to fairly recent (2019) covering the Ausf.D through to the H and J models.

I settled on this old Tamiya Ausf.D as it was the oldest kit of the Panzer IV that I had.
The bottom hull had a date stamp of 1975 which was first used on Tamiya's Panzer IV Ausf.H.
This kit was first released in 1977, with my boxing being a re-release in 1985.

I had assumed that I would have a few issues with flashing and molding seam lines etc, but was quite pleasantly surprised at how clean everything was.
Despite being 40+ years old, it still assembled very well, with very little molding seams and no flash whatsoever!

Given it's age, it's a bit light on the finer details as you would expect compared to more recent examples but I think it still holds up pretty well. Another cool feature is that it also includes the addon armour plates and louvered engine access covers for later variants used in North Africa.

In the end, a quick, easy but more importantly... VERY enjoyable build.

Youtube Video
Youtube Video
Youtube Video

Murad ÖZER
lovely build mate. the color doesn't have any blue tint to it and is spot on imho, also the caked mud around the chasis me likey very very much! 👍

James C
Thanks mate. 🙂

I was going to use Tamiya's XF-63 "German Grey" but I felt that it's a bit too dark so I used AK 163 "Dunkelgrau Base" instead, as well as mixed with a bit of AK 165 "Dunkelgrau High Light" to break up the overall colour a bit.

Vytautas
Impressive. Perfect weathering, looks like a real tank!

Neuling
I agree with Murad and Vytautas. Everything just right. Oldie but goodie! And: inspriring caked mud. 👍

Rui S
I've this kit in my stash for ages, and I really like it and want to do it. When I think about doing it I always hope I can make it as beautiful has you did yours.
Great work on this old kit O.O.B. 👍
You proved my point and thoughts, no need, a new expensive kit, or lot's of expensive aftermarket stuf, to make a Great model, (so thank you).
You need talent and thats what I see here.
Congratulations Mate 👍

Sebastian Meyner
Great build & weathering James 👍

James C
Many thanks Vytautas, Neuling, Rui and Sebastian. I always appreciate your feedback 🙂

@ Rui - You're too kind mate 😳
I think having started the build not expecting much of it made it more enjoyable to find that it was quite a bit better than what I was anticipating. It has it's flaws, such as holes in the bottom of the lower hull to plug off (as is normal for Tamiya kits of this era) no clear lenses for the head lights, and hollow water cans etc, but the vehicle itself goes together really well otherwise.
I'd definitely recommend building it... before it gets too much older lol! 😉👍

Bruce Huxtable
So much to see and enjoy. Top work for sure. Inspirational ??

Robin (WhiteGlint)
Great Panzer IV, James!
Nicely weathered and painted details. The mud gives a great contrast to the overall grey tone of the tank 👍

Nathan Dempsey
That's a great build James. You've got me wanting to build some armor ?

James C
Many thanks Bruce, WhiteGlint and Nathan 🙂

@ Nathan - Give it a shot mate 😉👍

Deltic21
This is my first attempt at any armour and i hope i can do half the job you have! 🙂 Could i ask how you dealt with the tracks in regard to paint/weathering?

James C
Thanks Deltic 🙂

The tracks in this kit are the old vinyl type that can't be joined using ordinary plastic cement, so I used some thick CA glue to join them together, then clamped them off on both sides of the guide horns using some wide (approx 30mm) bulldog clips to ensure they remained straight and didn't pull apart, then applied a couple drops of CA "accelerator" to get an instant bond.

After an hour or so I removed the bull-dog clips and they were ready for a coat of primer along with everything else. I generally use Stynylrez black surface primer as it's great stuff.

For the base colour I use Tamiya (acrylic) XF-56 "Metallic Grey" and spray both sides ensuring the paint gets into all of the recesses, then once dried I brush on some A.MiG-1002 "Tracks Wash" with an old disposable paint brush; again ensuring it goes into all of the recesses using a stippling motion, then blot away the excess wash with paper towels. Note that this is a smelly and messy process and not good for your brushes so it's a good idea to obtain a pack of cheap disposables for this, and put plenty of old newspaper down to protect your surroundings as this stuff tends to go EVERYWHERE! Needless to say, disposable gloves are a good idea as well 😉

For the raised cleats on the tracks I sometimes use A.MiG-0192 "Polished Metal" and lightly dry-brush the raised sections that make contact with the ground to give them a worn looking high-light.
But, more recently, I've been switching to Tamiya weathering pastels for doing this, using "light gunmetal" from their Weathering Set "F" and applying it with just a finger tip as I find I get more control rather than dry-brushing on paint. The downside of this is that it will rub off while handling until sealed under a clear matt coat, but you can always apply more if required at the end of the build.

When the time comes to mounting the tracks, you don't want to stretch them anymore than you have to to avoid peeling off the the paint, or worse... snapping them altogether at the join. If this happens, you may have no choice other than to staple them together again which causes it's own problems trying to hide the staples. Also, needless to say it's best to add any weathering to the lower hull and around the suspension arms prior to mounting the tracks.

Other than for test fitting, I leave the upper rollers, and road wheels off until the very end.
I begin with mounting the cogged drive wheel inside of a track loop and then attach that to the front of the hull... ensuring that the tracks are orientated the right way. Then insert the large return idler wheel inside of the track loop and slip it into position on the rear. If your careful you shouldn't have to stretch the track loops at all. Then attach all eight of the small upper rollers ensuring that the guide horns on the tracks slip down and between both roller wheels at each position. For the road wheels, start attaching them from the outside (forward, or rear most) and work your way alternating between the front and back until you finish in the middle... also ensuring that the track guide horns slip up and into position between each set of road wheels.

If your careful, you shouldn't have snapped the tracks or lost any paint in the process and you can move on and complete the other side. 🙂👍

I don't claim that this process is the best (or most authentic) way to do it, but is what I found works best for me, after sometimes learning the hard way of what NOT to do.
You can see most of the track weathering steps in my last two (Panzer III) albums, but if you need or want any further help, drop me a PM. 🙂👍

A really good starter set to use for weathering tracks that contains both mig products I mentioned is:

A.MIG-7437 Weathering Set fo.. TRACKS, Ammo by Mig Jimenez , Enamel, 2x 17ml, 3x 35ml

Ingo F
Looks great! 👍

James C
Thanks Ingo 🙂

I've illustrated my above comments in my current Panzer III build.
While the kit is different... including the material the tracks are made from, the weathering process is mostly the same:

Panzerkampfwagen III Ausf.L | Album by Jim C (1:35)

Deltic21
Hi James

Just had the chance to digest your reply, thank you so much for taking the time to write such a detailed message! I will certainly take on board you points and have a look for the suggested weathering set when i next pop to the shop. I am waiting to pick up some German Grey before i can spray the models, so once i have that i will have a go at painting and weathering.

Thanks for the additional offer of help, i am sure i will take you up on it sometime!! 🙂

Kim Branders
Fantastic wheathering job and the mud 🙂
NICE

James C
Thanks Kim 🙂