Mil Mi-4 'Hound' - Hobby Boss
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Box art on a top opening box, I love those for keeping remaining sprues and stuff in.
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OK, I am qualified. And I promise, I won't play with it.
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Nice and clean molding. This helo is bigger than I expected!
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The rotor blades do not have any droop molded on them, so they will need to be bent slightly under running hot water later.
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Extremely delicate and spidery landing gear parts... that will be one fragile model!
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Nice and clean transparencies.
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Not too happy about the molded-on windshield wipers though...
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Bloody hell, that's some nasty ejector pin marks!
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Even worse on the clamshell doors... hardly possible to repair.
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The cargo bay roof. Marks, marks, marks.
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Even the doors have some nasties.
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Decals for Soviet and Chinese helos.
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Guess what? I will build a Hungarian one. Third party decals purchased. Number 28 had a temporary Hungarian flag replacing the national insignia during the uprising against the Soviet occupation before it was quenched after two weeks and the insignia restored. I have however decided to build the helicopter as it looked before the revolution, so the flag decal will not be used.
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Since the engine compartment is empty, the engine cooling louvres are blanked off with a piece of black foil (from a bottle of excellent Rioja) to avoid see-through. An alternate solution would be to turn the lamelles to closed position (they can be opened or closed shut on the real thing), but I think it looks kind of cool like this.
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Windows secured with superglue as I would not want to risk them popping inside the fuselage once it is assembled. Not again. Careful application will not fog or mar the transparencies, you just need to work slowly.
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Cockpit and cargo area assembled. Quick progress once you have done it ...
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The co-pilot's seat gets a proper back cushion from styrene sheets instead of the odd T-shaped one (cut off in the photo). This is what it looks like on the real thing so let's make it like that. I won't try to scribe in the vertical grooves, they won't be visible with the seatbelts in place.
![Album image #18 Album image #18](/albums/img/7/7/7/1127777-57594-45-720.jpg)
The cockpit is assembled and painted using Tamiya acrylics and weathered with some 502 Abteilung oils diluted with AKI turpenoid. I tried to make the seats and the joystick boots appear as wrinkly, worn leather, but I am not sure if I managed in this small scale. The seatbelts are salvaged from my first, scrapped Mi-4.
![Album image #19 Album image #19](/albums/img/2/9/7/1127297-57594-93-720.jpg)
The kit instrument panel is hand painted with Tamiya acrylics. The gauges of the instruments are represented by scratching off the black paint with a sewing needle, revealing the light gray plastic underneath. Sprayed semi-flat and then the glass of the instruments is represented with tiny droplets of AKI Gauzy Glass Coat Agent applied with a cocktail stick. Absolutely not correct for the real Mi-4, but y'know, artistic license and stuff.
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Cockpit assembly cemented into the left fuselage side. The dashboard is just placed there for now for fitting tests, it can be added in later.
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A heavy bolt is superglued into the nose to avoid a tail sitting model later. Not sure how much is needed, so let's hope it is enough. I can always add more later through the opening to gunner's compartment.
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Finally the fuselage halves are cemented together. Most of the fit is really nice, but as you can see, there are a few gaps here and there that will need to be filled and sanded back.
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The rear cargo bay doors are attached in a closed position - some careful sanding is needed to get them into the same profile as the fuselage.
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Windshield and some minor details added. A little filling and sanding is needed for the seam lines to disappear.
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The Hungarian Hounds never carried a machine gun and the gunner's gondola was blanked off with a steel plate. I reproduced this with some styrene sheets.
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Some minor internal details added from leftover PE pieces. Probably nothing will be visible, but anyway.
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Gun gondola attached to the fuselage. BTW I noticed that the nose shield is missing those characteristic triple shark-gill cooling vents, but I won't be able to reproduce that.
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The various headlights and search lights are represented as circular blobs, which don't look too convincing ...
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So instead I drilled them out with a 2.5 mm drill bit ...
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... and cemented in a round piece of a transparent sprue with some kitchen metal foil cemented on its back side.
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Looks much more convincing! I also removed those rather stumpy exhaust pipes and will be replacing them with thin plastic tubes instead.
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Windows and apertures masked off with a combination of precut masks from KV Models, masking tape and masking fluid.
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The ubiquitous cleaning with IPA alcohol to remove molding grease, fingerprints and sanding dust.
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Bring forth the airbrush and the gray primer!
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Spraying is fun - I love this primer, it is the best ever.
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One Soviet helo primed in gray. Now let's examine for flaws to be fixed and reprimed. Hm, I can already see a few.
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Panel lines preshaded in black.
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Doing test mixes of the paint colors to match the photos. This is not a standard HUAF paint scheme, so some experimentation is required ... but I think I am getting there!
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Bottom part painted light blue (Tamiya XF-2 Flat White + a few drops of X-23 Clear Blue). Sprayed on with my H&S Infinity airbrush, 0.2 mm needle at 15 PSI, roughly following the to-be demarcation line.
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Light blue underside masked off using Tamiya masking tape. The rounded corner is masked with an unused, round piece from the mask set for the windows.
![Album image #41 Album image #41](/albums/img/2/3/4/1162234-57594-24-720.jpg)
Top sides painted green, varying the intensity by letting the panel preshading shine through along the panel lines. Also some green with a few drops of white mixed in, was sprayed in the middle of each panel to create an illusion of slightly faded paint. Now let it all dry for a day or two!
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The engine cooling slots are on the real Mi-4 cut out openings in the engine hood, covered by a wire mesh. On the model these cutouts are only represented as tiny triangular and rectangular recesses. Instead of cutting them open (which could have been done but would have been an absolute pain), I just masked them off and sprayed them with Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black.
![Album image #43 Album image #43](/albums/img/7/3/8/1162738-57594-83-720.jpg)
Masking tape removed and some dry-brushing applied to highlight the molded mesh structure - it's not ideal, but looks reasonable enough in this small scale.
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Glossy varnish coat (Tamiya X-22 mixed 1:1 with Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner) sprayed on and after a few minutes an application of clean Leveling Thinner is sprayed on to melt and further smoothen the varnish. This super glossy sheen looks totally unrealistic, but will be toned down to a nearly flat finish once the decals have been applied.
![Album image #45 Album image #45](/albums/img/3/7/4/1163374-57594-46-720.jpg)
The nose gear needs to be slightly refabricated to look correct. There should be one pitot tube on each of the two legs and not two on the right one as molded. Also the crew boarding ladder will need to be scratch built as it is omitted from the kit. And of course the nose wheels will need to be added!
![Album image #46 Album image #46](/albums/img/3/7/3/1163373-57594-50-720.jpg)
The triangular crew boarding panel is also missing from the left main landing gear, so it was fabricated from a plastic cup.
![Album image #47 Album image #47](/albums/img/3/5/4/1163354-57594-16-720.jpg)
The main gear struts and wheels are painted and cemented to the fuselage. Now almost time for decalling, but first I want to get on with those rotor blades that I have been procrastinating for so long.
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The rotor blades do not have any droop molded, so it needs to be fixed for the model to look realistic. The blades are heated up under running hot water and when slightly malliable, carefully bent into shape. Just be careful not to overdo it or break the blades!
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A very slight difference, but quite important!
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Finally, four, slightly drooping rotor blades!
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The blades and the tail rotor primed and sprayed gray, using some post-shading to enhance the faded appearance.
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The tips of the tail rotor blades are painted yellow (Tamiya Acrylic) and the hub metalized (AKI Xtreme Metal Matt Aluminium).
![Album image #53 Album image #53](/albums/img/7/1/8/1132718-57594-71-720.jpg)
Tail rotor hub greased down with some brown and black wash (AK Interactive 2033). The blades were made of some canvas-like material, so no wear and tear should be done.
![Album image #54 Album image #54](/albums/img/7/2/3/1132723-57594-31-720.jpg)
The de-icing leading edges of the main rotor blades are masked off and sprayed metal (AKI Xtreme Metal Matt Aluminium). The instructions tell you to spray them white, but that's incorrect. The leading edges are metal and the real one has hundreds of tiny holes for the deicing fluid (isopropyl alcohol).
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Blade tip painted yellow and there, one finished rotor blade, three more to go!
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Let's start decalling! It's a quick progress, basically just the side numbers from the Hi Decal set and the national insignias, taken from the spare box.
![Album image #57 Album image #57](/albums/img/9/7/2/1163972-57594-98-720.jpg)
The warning stencil on the tail rotor from the Hi Decal set is sadly misspelled: a "Y" is missing (the accents too). I left out some space to try to find a matching letter from the spares, but in the worst case I will have to try to paint it in myself. BTW, it says "Watch out rotating airscrew!" in Hungarian. Just try to pronouce it, I dare you.
![Album image #58 Album image #58](/albums/img/9/7/3/1163973-57594-55-720.jpg)
Some panel liners added to simulate gathered dirt and dust (AKI Paneliner set). This helo was not even a year old at the time it is depicted like this, so I'd better not go overboard with the weathering.
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Model sprayed with a thin coat of Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear to tone down the glossy appearance for a semi-flat finish and give it a slightly "dusty" look. Window masks removed and it is time to add the final details such as the open cockpit doors, exhaust pipes, antennas, some cables and of course the rotor assembly. Finishing line in sight!
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The last details added - and she is finished! Holding it like this in my hand needs to be done with great care as the model is really fragile! The rotor assembly is removable for transport and storage. Since the sun is shining through my hobby room window, let's shoot some photos!
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The finished model in front of the hangar.
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The finished model
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The finished model
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The real Mi-4 does in fact have this kind of backwards leaning stance.
![Album image #65 Album image #65](/albums/img/5/7/1/1165571-57594-68-720.jpg)
That triangular crew entry ladder was scratch built from stretched sprue as it is missing from the kit.
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The finished model
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The spelling error was corrected by using a micro brush and white paint (wearing double reading glasses and avoiding coffee for a few hours).
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The finished model
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I am pretty pleased with the finish, even with this slanted light, there is hardly any orange-peel effect. Credits go to Tamiya acrylics and Mr Color leveling thinner.
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The finished model
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The truck in the background is an Ural 4250 tanker from ICM with scratch made details and decals. I am aware of the anachronism (about 20 years or so), but they sure look cool together!
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The finished model basking in the cold February morning sunlight.
![Album image #73 Album image #73](/albums/img/5/5/5/1165555-57594-54-720.jpg)
Budaörs Airport, Hungary, February 1956.
评论
106 17 November 2021, 14:33
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Coming along nicely. The PE certainly making a big difference 👍 (I am a recent convert 🙂 )
17 November 2021, 14:57
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I like to watch it, especially since I've built it before. But I didn't use a lot of parts, rather cut them off. 😉
Forgotten helicopters Mil Mi-4A | Album by Flugi
17 November 2021, 16:30
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Bernhard, holy cow, that is some master class model building there! I am not nearly on the same skill level as you.
17 November 2021, 16:44
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Gentlemen, thank you! Bughunter, typo corrected, it is of course a Mi-4 and nothing else! 🙂 Mi-2 kit is sleeping in its box in the stash.
18 November 2021, 06:52
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Ah, you were probably already thinking about the next project 😉
I was once lucky enough to see an aerobatic demonstration of a Polish Mi-2, no looping but still very impressive!
18 November 2021, 07:24
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It's gonna be the '56 model year, innit? Can't stand waiting to see it completed.
18 November 2021, 18:56
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👀 I'd better keep my eyes wide open - don't want to miss this fast paced build. 🙂 👍
18 November 2021, 19:24
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Łukasz, not sure yet, it might just be a pre-56 Hound. TBH, I don't like the look of those blotched-over stars, it would look like I goofed up the painting on the model.
18 November 2021, 22:02
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I'm following, too! You have a very considerate daughter, making you such nice presents!
26 November 2021, 09:32
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Bit of a setback... Yesterday, while masking, one of the bulbous side windows ended up popping off and falling inside the fuselage. Damit, I knew I should have secured them with CA-glue, but instead I now have a helicopter shaped maracas. Since the transparencies are secured from the inside, I now need to cut open the fuselage to retrieve and reattach the window. Or I might just buy a new kit and start over again, reusing as much as I can from the old kit. Fun, innit. Brings back sad memories of the 2021 cat event.
27 November 2021, 09:14
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Hmmm, sad news indeed. I'd rather go for some UV glue at this stage, but not sure you could fetch some 🙁
27 November 2021, 09:33
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Lukasz, yeah, but the windows can only be secured from the inside. I will try saw open the cargo bay doors for some keyhole surgery. If it doesn't work, I have no choice but to replace the fuselage from a new kit. Not that big of a deal really.
27 November 2021, 12:46
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Keep my fingers crossed for that - opening the cargo doors seems the best idea for the moment IMHO
27 November 2021, 14:05
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Well I meant filling it with the uv glue afterwards and only varnishing it - that's what I did in the past sometimes
27 November 2021, 16:05
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Thomas, something similar happened to me on my Do-24. A window to the interior was detached when the fuselage was closed and the model was painted (I did not glue the transparent parts with cyano and this part came off inwards when I pushed it with a finger when manipulating the mockup).
Dornier Do 24 SAR Project | Album by Cuajete (1:72)
I thought to extract the transparent piece with tweezers and a lot of patience (doing "the maraca"). Then I protected it with a layer of Future and glued it back with cyano, holding the piece with a toothpick, blue-tack until the cyano was dry.
27 November 2021, 19:27
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Lukasz & Cuajete, thanks for the tips! I have actually spent a good 30-40 minutes trying to get the bloody window in the right spot but it is impossible to cement it in from the outside without messing everything up with cement. I managed sawing open the cargo doors but the internal space is still too narrow to apply cement to reattach the window. Of course it is the one furthest in. Duh, I guess I will just need to use the spare kit that I happen to have on the shelf. See, I always buy two of each kit for just such an occasion, clever me.
27 November 2021, 19:33
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Thomas, with the cargo doors open, you also don't get to the bottom with a small stick or long slat and the blue-tack technique to hold from the inside?
27 November 2021, 19:42
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Cuajete, no, it seems inpossible. I just cannot see what I am doing. It's kind of like painting your hall through the letterbox. But to be honest, I don't mind redoing the fuselage anyway, there were a few fitting and filling errors that I am quite pleased to be able to fix now. Since I can keep the cockpit, it's a matter of just an hour of work.
27 November 2021, 19:48
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Ok, Thomas... Sure you solve it and the result is better with all those improvements 👍
27 November 2021, 19:53
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After another futile attempt to fixate the lost window, yesterday evening I started to redo the fuselage from the beginning. I decided to ditch the PE parts inside the cockpit as nothing was visible anyway when installed but instead it caused some annoying fit issues. So more or less OOTB it shall be. Windows attached with superglue, believe it.
14 December 2021, 07:58
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Following this one, Thomas.
It's a bit sad that you had to start again.
14 December 2021, 11:49
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Not to worry, this one I intend to finish. Old photo album removed so I am not reminded of the unfortunate mishap, and a new one is in progress.
14 December 2021, 19:04
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Really liking the instrument panel. Thomas - great tips, and great result at this tiny scale 🙂
15 December 2021, 09:51
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Agreed, the instrument panel looks great. How did you glue in the windows originally?
15 December 2021, 13:10
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Originally, I used Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. However, the adhesion with transparencies is much weaker than with regular plastic, so as I was masking the windows, one became loose and dropped inside, impossible to retrieve. Now I am using CA for a full strength bond.
15 December 2021, 15:29
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Well done so far, Thomas.
Is the heavy bolt visible through the windows?
16 December 2021, 18:54
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Cuajete, definitely not, the side windows are dome-shaped and warp too much for any kind of visibility into the cargo/troop area. That slightly larger, semi-circular opening in photo 21 is the intake for the supercharger, which will be is blanked off. From the cockpit, the dashboard will cover everything.
16 December 2021, 21:51
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Yesterday I spent a full hour masking off the windows and various apertures. I am thinking of waiting with adding the landing gear struts after painting. I generally don't like cementing stuff to already painted surfaces, but the struts are extremely delicate and will make masking and spraying much more difficult. Any suggestions?
20 December 2021, 09:00
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If it were me, I would definitely hold off attaching landing struts after painting. Painting evenly around them is difficult and I also usually get dried overspray due to deflection. I usually scrape a small area on the mating surfaces and the Tamiya thin cement does the rest. I also suggest adding metal rod connectors for strength, but that may not be needed. I also recommend dry-fitting the struts before painting, to avoid running into surprises once all is painted. Just my five cents 👍
20 December 2021, 13:34
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I pretty much do it as Alec said.
It is hard to spray around the land gear and often easier to scrape away the paint of the contact surfaces (mostly on the gear but sometimes it is necessary to do this in the bay as well) or protect these surfaces from paint altogether.
Sometimes I use superglue to attach the landing gear or other painted parts.
But you need to be careful or else you make a mess around it, happened to me a few times already.
20 December 2021, 14:29
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Alec & WhiteGlint, your input is very welcome. I will do exactly as you suggested, that was my original idea too. The struts are furthermore super fragile and I am pretty sure I would break them at least once while handling the model during painting. I will probably use superglue for them. Thanks mates! 🙂
20 December 2021, 14:41
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A USSR designed helicopter with a fragile undercarriage? That doesn't sound right...
20 December 2021, 17:08
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Bas Tonn, ha ha, yes, things quickly turn weird when scaled down! I have actually seen this very Mi-4 close up in person; it's a smelly, greasy, cast-iron steam train, Soviet style. Definitely nothing fragile there.
20 December 2021, 21:05
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I just found this photo reportage of the restoration of this airframe for the museum. The text is in Hungarian, but with plenty of photos. It's an old East German Mi-4 that is repainted to represent the original "27" that crashed in 1957. The painting part is just like building a scale model, except in a slightly larger scale.
repulomuzeum.hu/ARCHFOTO/Mi-4fest/Mi-4fest.htm
22 December 2021, 09:01
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Yesterday evening some time was spent on the rotor assembly, before it is time to continue with the main fuselage painting. The Christmas Tree decoration is done too BTW.
23 December 2021, 09:03
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we all have to learn from each other, that's why i follow every helicopter build with interest
23 December 2021, 11:29
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Learning lots from this mini masterclass. The fine masking on the rotor blade must have been tricky, but the results look crisp and very even. Superb work throughout 👍🙂
23 December 2021, 19:44
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Finally, top surfaces sprayed green. Ended up with some green paint annoyingly seeping in under the masking tape at a few places, which will need some careful repair, but the overall look is still pretty sweet. Still pondering about how much weathering I should apply: should this be a museum piece or a cold war utility vehicle.
25 December 2021, 14:15
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Looks very good 👍🙂 I vote for a cold war utulity vehicle ☝
25 December 2021, 15:35
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Piotr, thanks mate. Yes, that's what it will be. Is it fully realistic? Pro'lly not, but it sure is more fun that way.
25 December 2021, 16:36
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Thomas some time ago I decided the same - fun over realism. At the end that what is all about in this hobby - at least in my case :-D
25 December 2021, 21:29
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Looking great Thomas. I agree with the comments above, fun before some absolut realism, which especially in 1:72 is difficult to achieve. On a side note, some small panel shading like you did is in my view still realistic enough. Other people tend to really overdo it. I really wouldn't worry much here.
26 December 2021, 08:14
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You're turning this kit into a masterpiece, Thomas! I am already impressed!
27 December 2021, 13:39
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I am trying to find a way to represent the sprayed over star insignia but it always ends up looking like I dropped a big blob of paint on the surface. I tried freehand spraying but it looks like crap. The same with an elevated mask. A sharp mask perhaps? Or print a decal maybe? Damit I am really reaching for straws here.
[img1]
27 December 2021, 17:28
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My proposal: oversized sharp mask + very thin Blutack rolls on its edges. Then just spray slowly under 90 degree angle.
27 December 2021, 18:24
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Łukasz, thanks buddy, I tried that on a scrap piece, but it did not look the way I wanted it. I think the mask needs to hover like a hair above the surface; no more, or the paint will just spread out too much and will look like a blob. I guess I will need to practise a bit more.
27 December 2021, 18:37
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Try different diameters of the blutack rolls, that should get you there. 🙂
27 December 2021, 18:51
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It's looking very good Thomas. Not really sure what the best approach is for the blanked out star, but you do have a mule to experiment on (your abandoned build, unless you sailed it out the window already…).
27 December 2021, 21:46
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Alec, yes, ha ha. But I have decided to just skip it. Even when it looks like it should (following Lukasz' tip), it still looks kind of corny, like a sprayed-on fuzzy green blob. I think 72 is just too small for something like that. Whatever, this is just a hobby, keep it simple, I say.
27 December 2021, 23:02
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Erik, that's actually not a bad idea! Thanks a bunch! ❤️ I will definitely try it!
28 December 2021, 19:12
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I modified a 5 point star with Paint.net and filled it with the green of your photo
28 December 2021, 19:22
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Olivier, thank you. Polishing with micromesh cloth between each paint layer is the trick. It takes ages but is usually worth it.
28 December 2021, 21:40
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Four more tips: 1. never do circular paths, only go in straight directions, and change direction 90 degrees between grits. 2. Make sure to not apply any pressure, or you will cut through the paintwork in a heartbeat, especially around edges. 3. Clean all surfaces before moving on to the next grit. 4. 6000 -> 8000 -> 12000 is a good series on acrylics.
28 December 2021, 21:52
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Keeping it simple strategy is something I can get behind 👍. Landing gear looks great.
30 December 2021, 01:28
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I am waiting for the transparent decal sheet to arrive. Call me crazy, but in the meantime, I am pondering whether or not to build another Mi-4, this time with some internal details and the rear clamshell doors open... It is really such a fun and super easy kit to build, so I might just try it!
1 January 2022, 15:28
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Thomas, build a second Mi-4. I love that part. With the loading gates open, that works out very well. 🙂
1 January 2022, 17:15
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You really advertise this kit and I might get hooked - despite all my intentions not to buy another before finishing something
2 January 2022, 01:19
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Michael, it's really not the best kit I have ever built, but it's surprisingly easy to build given the complexity of the construction. Assembly up to painting is about 30 minutes. However, there are at least a dozen super nasty ejector pin marks marring literally every internal surface, so to make a decent interior, you'd need to be prepared to Dremel off the molded internal wall structures and rebuild them using various styrene strips.
2 January 2022, 10:26
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As I would like to put it beside my abandoned ZIL131 with blind windows the interior does not matter. So far I only couldn't find any Hind 4 in UN livery.
2 January 2022, 10:52
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This is the Mi-4 'Hound' in case you were thinking of something else. The 'Hind' is the Mi-24 'Krokodil'.
2 January 2022, 18:11
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Not being an expert I still think that Bernhard referred to the Mi-4, as the Mi-24 Hind surely operated in various UN-missions.
2 January 2022, 20:46
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Ha ha, keine Problem, ich hab's verstanden. Soweit mir bekannt ist, wurde die Mi-4 nie im VN-Dienst eingesetzt.
3 January 2022, 05:47
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Looking again, I notice the beautiful metal effect on the landing strut and how cleanly you inserted the side windows.
29 January 2022, 10:59
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Treehugger, for this model I used Tamiya X-22 Clear varnish, mixed 50/50 with Mr Hobby Leveling thinner and sprayed on wet. Before completely dry, I sprayed on another layer of leveling thinner, which further helped eliminating any uneven sheen and resulted in a smooth semi-gloss surface.
1 February 2022, 20:49
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Q: I normally use acrylics in my airbrush, I wonder, how do you suggest I clean my airbrush should I try start using this mix of Tamiya X-22 Clear varnish and Mr Hobby Leveling thinner?
I can use a separate airbrush for this, either 0.5 or 0.3, but I never had to use laquer paint before, so I accept any tips for cleaning this out of my airbrush, not sure if this requires a deeper cleaning then say the use of acrylics.
3 February 2022, 09:13
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The Tamiya X-22 is an acrylic varnish. Mix it 1:1 with Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner and mist on a thin layer first, then follow it up with heavier layers, making sure that it looks "wet". Finally I spray over it with clean LT to further melt and level the varnish a bit. It becomes absolutely rock hard after 2-3 days, but do not touch the surface with bare hands for at least 24 hours, or you will have fingerprints all over the model!
3 February 2022, 09:54
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@treehugger: any decent airbrush cleaner should do. I use my trusted Revell and have had no problems with the paint/thinner combo Thomas described.
3 February 2022, 11:37
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Michael, that is correct. I am using AKI Xtreme Cleaner. It works perfectly and does not harm the airbrush nor its silicone seals.
3 February 2022, 12:30
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One more suggestion regarding paint switching in airbrush: when switching to clear of any kind, I always disassemble my airbrush and clean it (the nozzle in particular). I also do this after spraying any metallics ( those pigments just don't come off easy). I generally switch between paints with only a thinner rinse, but this is not enough for the above scenarios in my experience.
I use HS Infinity 1.5mm with Mr.Color lacquers. For general cleaning I use hardware-variety lacquer thinner, GSI Leveling Thinner for paint dilution.
3 February 2022, 13:12
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Łukasz, yes, and to be honest, very few people would even notice it. But my obsessive compulsory mindset would never let me rest if I didn't at least try to fix it.
5 February 2022, 11:36
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Off topic: I had two colleges who couldn't stand each other. One day one took revenge by setting the others mobiles language to Hungarian.
Reading the decal you get an idea of the effect. 🙂
5 February 2022, 21:57
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Michael, ha ha, that's cruel. It took me 20 years to learn Hungarian to native level - I would say it's one of the most difficult languages on the world.
5 February 2022, 22:33
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After two weeks in Budapest I was not able to remember basic numerals...only some absolute basic greetings...and the warning formula from the Metro 😄. Polish is not much better, Mates.
6 February 2022, 10:33
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Great work on this helo Thomas! Also very nice to watch you build progress. 👍
7 February 2022, 08:44
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Dear mates, thank you all for your warm and kind words! I am glad that you approved of this build project, it was great fun (with the occasional unavoidable moments of horror).
7 February 2022, 15:39
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Q: One more question, what psi do you prefer for airbrushing on the gloss coat?
8 February 2022, 19:15
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Treehugger, about 12-15 PSI. But don't take my word for it, I absolutely suck at (and hate) gloss coating. Sometimes it works out like miracle, and sometimes it turns into a teeth gnashing misery.
8 February 2022, 19:19
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I used to use Humbrol Clear gloss coat, but it just gives me cracking patterns. And I don't have any explanation for it. I asked a question at their facebook webpage, but afaik my message with my question never showed up.
I will order some Mr. Hobby 400ml leveling thinner and mix it with my Tamiya stuff that I never use. 🙂
Thanks for the feedback!
8 February 2022, 19:44
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i use future out of the bottle, works quite well. but i like the idea of mixing it with Mr leveling thinner, i have to try that.
8 February 2022, 22:12
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Treehugger, a friend who is a professional painter explained that to me once. Cracking pattern on a clear varnish (or any solid coat for that matter) happens as the underlying coat shrinks because of the paint still curing and drying. The clear coat will then be dragged along and create a cracking pattern. It may be that you are spraying on too soon? Especially if you are mixing acrylics with enamels and depending on the ambient temperature and humidity, you should wait at least a few days before applying the next coat.
9 February 2022, 05:23
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I would like to ask, could you please upload, or link to the product you are using as a leveling thinner?
The producs I found online was: "Gunze GSI Mr.Hobby T111 Aqueous Color Thinner (400ml) " Maybe the wrong one? It also says "Thinner" on the bottle in bit letters. Blue label with the number '400' on it. It certainly looks like the number is just indicative of the amount of content, looking at similar products from Mr. Hobby.
I was about to order Mr. Hobby Thinner, but that might not be the same as 'leveling thinner' making me a little unsure what product you are using to mix with your Tamiya gloss.
I suppose, it is possible I should leave my Vallejo painted models to dry for a week at least, but I am not sure I want to try this again if I can find a better solution. Somehow, I suspected it was my first layer of Humbrol Clear Gloss coat that affected the subsequent layers of gloss coat, then, as I imagined, it might not be the Vallejo primer/paint underneath it all. :| I never figured that out.
9 February 2022, 05:42
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Hi Treehugger. You are going through the same confusion as a lot of us did. Gunze has two color lines: acrylics (Mr. Hobby Color) and enamel (Mr. Color). The Mr. Hobby Color thinner is designed for the acrylics only. Mr Color Thinner is designed for the enamel range and the Mr Color Levelling thinner too with a special formula which should (and does) ensure a very smooth finish. Now comes the twist: Mr. Color Levelling thinner can be used with acrylics too.
Too me, after I understood, the Gunze Thinners made all the difference. Only with them can I achieve a finish with Gunze or Tamiya acrylic paints I am satisfied with. Hope this helps a bit.
9 February 2022, 07:58
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Treehugger, sure (it also comes in 110 ml bottles):
super-hobby.se/produ..eveling-Thinner.html
This thinner will not just add extra solvent to the paint to make it more fluid for airbrush applications, but also contains a retarder, which will make the paint dry significantly slower, giving it more time to "level", or even out. The good thing is that it will create a much smoother finish and less risk for "orange peel" effect. If you want, you can even spray the entire freshly painted surface with only leveling thinner, which will actually re-melt the paint finish and make it even more smooth, almost perfectly satin-like. On the negative side, it will take significantly longer for the paint layer to fully cure, so if you touch the surface with bare hands in the next 3-4 days, you will inevitably get fingerprints that you will have a hard time to remove.
9 February 2022, 08:16
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Just a small clarification from me - Mr.Colors are not enamels, they are lacquers. Whether this is correct nomenclature I don't know and I leave it for experts. Still, they can be mixed with Hataka lacquers for example, but not with the oldschool enamels like Revell, MM or Humbrol. The latter ones are going to be 'eaten' once covered with Mr.Color. How do I know? No surprise, been there, you can check my Cobra failure if looking for a proof 😉
9 February 2022, 08:38
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Hi Thomas, I tried you Levelling thinner only tip and although I have to tweak it a little bit, it already gave an even smoother finish. Thanx for the hint.
9 February 2022, 09:01
Album info
"Dad, when will you build the helicopter you got for birthday?", asked my youngest daughter. OK, so I will build it. I don't think I have built a helo model since I was like 17, so it is time! This should be a fun and relatively easy build without adding too much extra stuff.