A-10

Peter de Bruin
Thanks for the likes! Will keep updating the album 🙂

Peter de Bruin
Thanks Keith!

Peter de Bruin
After doing it part freehand and part masked I think I prefer freehand as it takes a bit more patients during painting but you wont have masking applications in the way of your airbrush. It does however makes for more touch ups, but I do think I like the result is better, although I'll have to check when we have daylight again. Apparently I need a better compressor though 😛 (and lighting I suppose 😄)

James C
Looking awesome 👀👍

Peter de Bruin
Thanks James and welcome abord!

Finn
Looking good - will follow

Peter de Bruin
Thanks Finn and welcome aboard!
Will start decals today or tomorrow.

Kyle DeHart
Jumping in for the end of this one. Always love an A-10

Peter de Bruin
Welcome aboard Kyle!
I did some touch ups today, especially the wheel wells and the engines still needed some work. Forgot to take pictures this time, so to be continued for now 🙂

Peter de Bruin
Well this was new to me, but the decal medium really made the paint go soft as well. Learned the hard way why you should always do two layers of varnish.
Luckily a few touch-ups will fix most of it and one decal is destroyed unfortunately.

Peter de Bruin
Letting the glue from the landing gear dry. When dry, final touch ups --> extra layer of gloss varnish around landing gear/touch up areas --> panel line wash.

Kyle DeHart
Looking great

Peter de Bruin
Thanks for the likes!

Curiosity question: What is your preferred (panelline)wash medium?

I'm currently using Tamiya panel line wash for the panel lines and AK/MIG enamel washes for everything else, since I don't like the acrylics from Vallejo as they dry and can't be manipulated afterwards. There are so many options and I would like especially the time consuming panel lines to be less toxic 😄 but enamel just flows so nice! Maybe the Flory models stuff, but that seems hard to get (got to ship from Greece). Anyway, looking forward to any input!

Daniel
I often use oil colors with lighter fluid or white spirit, though pretty odorless I dont know about toxicity of that stuff compared to enamels🤔
Nice work on your A-10! 👍

Peter de Bruin
Thanks Daniel!
Oil paints sound like an option 😊
Can you spray varnish over oil paints without issues? I've heard they can taken weeks to fully dry. Or do you do panel line wash with a matt cote on and just keep the weathering as the final layer.

As for toxicity, the white spirit/enamel are basically the same I think. Oil paints themselves are fine though. If thinned down oil paints are applied quicker it would make for less exposure to the vapors.

Daniel
If they are thick they take a while to dry, thinned down it's much quicker and can be speeded up with a hair dryer. I usually wait a day before varnish and didnt have problems as I dont use heavy oil layers.
But for washes youd also need to thin them heavily with the toxic stuff🤷‍♂️
I recently saw someone use weathering guache on ytube for panel lines, looked easy and should be less toxic, but I have no experience with that at all. Might be interesting to try out.

Peter de Bruin
Thanks Daniel! I'm going to look into that. I had never heard of it before but from a quick Google search I understand its like watercolour paints. And I'm also going to explore oil paints, was planning to order some stuff next week anyway 🙂

Peter de Bruin
Hi Roland, thanks! That also sounds like a good option. You then refer to the game colour inks?
The only disadvantage would then be that they, like the Vallejo washes, wont be manipulable (not sure if that's a word 😛) after drying. Do they stay wet longer than the washes as I always spill a bit? The washes used to dry quicker then my cleaning efforts.

Peter de Bruin
Ahh I see now Roland, you probably meant the drawing ink. The Vallejo site itself is down so got other results at first.

Daniel
Inks is a good idea 👍 so many possibilities these days.
About guache, this was the video:

Youtube Video

Peter de Bruin
Cool! Thans for the link Daniel 🙂
I will definitely try the gauche and probably also the ink. Wont know for sure what suits me best until I've tried them all.

Spanjaard
washes should be always done over a different type of paint. acrylic wash over enamel pain (never over acrylic paint), or enamel wash over acrylic.
there is another option, clay washes (home made or Flory models for example). it does not damage acrylic or enamel, can be removed and reapplied very easily if you want to correct. i believe not toxic. like all wash, better apply after a clear bright cote has been applied. and apply another clear cote once is dry to seal it and protect it.

Spanjaard
about white spirit, it can damage plastic in very impressive ways.... (almost had a total lost on my NX750 build because of that). even when done over painted parts. if you use oils that is better for plastic but it takes ages to dry. but has the advantage of giving you time to make changes.

Laurent VILLANUEVA HELLER ForEver
top

Peter de Bruin
Thanks Roland, I will definitely try that one. Didn't know that was an issue but explains the problems I had with the Vallejo wash. I did know enamel over enamel was a no go, but good to know this applies to acrylics as well, thanks!

Peter de Bruin
Thanks for the info Spanjaard, as said in the previous message I didn't know this applied to acrylics as well. Good to know, thanks!
As for the white spirit, thanks for confirming the damaging effect, i had parts fall off my t-90 when applying enamel thinner.
I'm definitely going to try oil paints for weathering and I'm also going to try the gauche Daniel suggested.

In regards to the flory models washes, any idea where to get them except for the Greek shop flory models refers to? I know about them but can't get my hands on them in the Netherlands without paying ridiculous shipping costs.

Peter de Bruin
Thanks Laurent!

Spanjaard
@Peter, I got them directly from Flory (shipped to the Netherlands 😉 ) but that was before Brexit and before the extra administration fees etc we need to pay now to bring from out of the EU. I can not remember seeing them in any shop, so the Greek one they have as EU distributor (www.seriousmodels.eu) is probably your best option. that, and of course you can try to make them youself. no kidding, i have found some links about making clay wash at home (water, clay, color, drops of detergent) but i have not tried that myself.. yet . I will consider when the bottles i have are close to be finished....

Spanjaard
after i click on sent, i had a flash.... i am sure i have seen them in a stall in Veldhoven... it may have been brevecomodelling.nl/ but i am unsure, and their website seems not work at the moment (i hope they are still there....)

Spanjaard
really curious about the use of gouache for washes.....

Peter de Bruin
Ahh, yeah I guess brexit messed it up 🤣
I will keep my eyes out at the esm on the 26th, maybe a vendor will have them. If not, I am actually intrigued by the DIY option. There is more than enough clay in Almere, just might need some colouring then 😊

As for the gauche, from what I've seen it should work somewhat like the clay wash from Flory models. I'll let you know once I've tried it. It's in the basket for my order next week during the sales 😇

Spanjaard
sorry for the spam 🙂, breveco website is back up, that may be a good option for you Peter 😉 brevecomodelling.nl/..flory-models/washes/
about gouache, I see some are "traditional" gouaches and others are new "acrylic" gouaches, so be careful .....

Peter de Bruin
It's only spam if it's unwanted, so no spam here 😉 just glad with al the help I'm getting.
The site is down again 😔 but I'll try again tomorrow, thanks!
I'll double check if it's an acrylic or the real deal, will avoid it if acrylic, thanks!

Daniel
So far I've only seen Gunze come up with a dedicated weathering guache line so the choice is limited if you dont want to loose yourself in the art market 😉 They also have the fitting thinner for that which seems to do a nice job for cleaning up based what I've seen in the clip. Might try this stuff myself, I'm always looking for new ways to make models dirty 🙂

Peter de Bruin
Very true Daniel ☺️
What Spanjaard said about acrylic gouache triggered me, as normal gouache should be able to be reactivated by water. Since Gunze has their own thinner I think it might not be able to be water activated once dry. Since I spray acrylic varnish it might give me the same issues as the Vallejo wash.
That said, i stil have to look into it wether the Gunze variant is acrylic. I'll let you know once I figured it out 😉

Peter de Bruin
Started the clean-up, coming up ok, but I should definitely inscribe new panel lines next time I sand a kit (pic 26).

Bernd Grün
Wonderful build, Peter. I love the look of your Warthog.👍🏻

Peter de Bruin
Thanks Bernd!

Guy Rump
Lovely build. 👍

Peter de Bruin
Thanks Guy!
I hope to finish it before new years. Just started a new job so modelling takes a hit 😅
Luckily we still have an hour or 2 on the weekends 🤗

Peter de Bruin
Does anyone have a clue as to what the milky mist on the inside of the canopy could be? (see picture 31)
I would almost suspect somehow some condensation took place or could this happen from leaving the masking agent on for to long maybe 🤔 Either way, I checked and it definitely is on the inside.

Laurent VILLANUEVA HELLER ForEver
can used paint?

Peter de Bruin
What kind of paint you mean? All Vallejo model air and Vallejo vanishes. I did use Tamiya panel line wash for the weathering, could those vapors somehow have caused this?

Edit, i say vapors because stayed clear of the canopy.

Spanjaard
could be side effects of glue? if you have used cyanocrilate to fix the canopy, sometimes it generates some kind of fogging in clear parts

Spanjaard
although this one looks very thin and all over the canopy....

Peter de Bruin
Thanks for the tip. Now that you mention it, i think I used ca for the landing gear/front wheel hatches. But then the fumes must have found an unlucky way up there.
It's not on the whole canopy though, the front is clear as day, just part of the slider is misty. It is hard to get properly photographed. I'll give it another try.

Peter de Bruin
In picture 32 you can see it better, it has a weird pattern and it wasn't there when the liquid mask got applied so it must have happened after that.
I will probably debate myself for the coming weeks whether to take it off and try to polish it out or leave it as it is 😄

Daniel
That's a quite common thing to happen, though I am not entirely sure what's the cause, always suspected lacquer varnish fumes but could also be CA fumes🤔 Good thing is: If you can remove the canopy without major damage, the fogging normally wipes off as easily as dust on glass

James C
Awesome job on the camouflage. A-10's look so much more appealing done in the Euro 1 paint scheme than the current overall grey scheme.
I intend to have a go at doing something similar in 1/48 one of these days. 👍

I wonder if some of the clear matt coat that you applied penetrated the canopy join and pooled on the inside? While understandably disappointing, I wouldn't fret too much if you can't repair it, as it's hard to spot in the pictures at least.

Peter de Bruin
Thanks Daniel, hope you're right! I will definitely try removing the canopy and fix it if it should be that easy 🙂

Peter de Bruin
Thanks for the kind words James!
Definitely agree on the euro 1 scheme, its more dynamic I suppose and also brings some colour to the NATO planes cabinet 🙂
Should be an impressive beast in 1:48, looking forward to seeing it.

Spanjaard
You can always say that it was parked outside I'm preparation for a winter mission, have some figures in winter clothes 😉

Peter de Bruin
Hahaha indeed. Frost the whole outside with Matt varnish except for a small portion that's already cleared by a busy employee. 🤔
I'll first try the easy clean though, i really liked this cockpits manually painted control panel.

Andy Ball
Canopy issue, or not, that is a spectacular near-finish. How was the kit in general?

Peter de Bruin
Thanks Andy! The kit (from what I remember as it was over 4 years ago) has a pretty good fit and the detail/panel lines are really nicely done. The fit on the nacelles could have been better and I should have used some filler between the wings and fuselage, but definitely a good kit. I will probably make this kit again someday, unless of course by then there is a newer tooled kit 😇