Newsfeed-
Dave Burgess
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
13 imagini
Bell P-76 (XP-39E) AiracobraNou: 7 October, 02:25 1:72
Proiect: 076 Bell P-76 (XP-39E) Airacobra
12 26 September, 02:48
Dave Burgess
So now the FUN begins! Turning the P-39 wing into a (laminar flow) P-76 wing! I found a cheap P-51 kit ($13 CAD) to sacrifice. I'll need to cut out and fill in the P-51 landing gear wells, chop off the wingtips to reduce the wing span to ~36 scale feet (35'10"), cut out the P-39's gear wells, chop holes in the P-51's wings to mount the P-39 gear wells, and remove the leading and trailing edges of the P-39 wing root to mate up with the P-51 wing so it matched the P-39 fuselage. Also because the gear wells in the '39 are further back than the P-51, and the flaps on the P-51 are molded as one piece not two, the rear of the gear wells extends into the flap space, so I'll have to toss the flaps and fill that space with sheet styrene. Piece of cake! (Yeah, right!)
So now the FUN begins! Turning the P-39 wing into a (laminar flow) P-76 wing! I found a cheap P-51 kit ($13 CAD) to sacrifice. I'll need to cut out and fill in the P-51 landing gear wells, chop off the wingtips to reduce the wing span to ~36 scale feet (35'10"), cut out the P-39's gear wells, chop holes in the P-51's wings to mount the P-39 gear wells, and remove the leading and trailing edges of the P-39 wing root to mate up with the P-51 wing so it matched the P-39 fuselage. Also because the gear wells in the '39 are further back than the P-51, and the flaps on the P-51 are molded as one piece not two, the rear of the gear wells extends into the flap space, so I'll have to toss the flaps and fill that space with sheet styrene. Piece of cake! (Yeah, right!)
3 October, 16:59
Dave Burgess
Step 1: Chop both the P-39 and P-51 lower wing into the component parts. I want to keep the P-39 wheel wells, and rear and forward centre so they will mate to the P-39 fuselage
Step 1: Chop both the P-39 and P-51 lower wing into the component parts. I want to keep the P-39 wheel wells, and rear and forward centre so they will mate to the P-39 fuselage
3 October, 23:01
Dave Burgess
Step 2: I re-sorted the wing components to prepare assembling the XP-39E/P-76 wing.
Step 2: I re-sorted the wing components to prepare assembling the XP-39E/P-76 wing.
3 October, 23:02
Dave Burgess
Step 4: a WHOLE BUNCH of puttying! in retrospect I probably didn't need to do so much disassembling of the P-39 wing, but I wasn't sure where it was going at the time.
Step 4: a WHOLE BUNCH of puttying! in retrospect I probably didn't need to do so much disassembling of the P-39 wing, but I wasn't sure where it was going at the time.
3 October, 23:05
Dave Burgess
Step 5: Now I have to chop the tail off the P-39 and fit on the P-51 tail. I think this will probably be the easiest approach here. I also have to lengthen the fuselage by 24 inches or 24/72 - 1/3". Fortunately the rear and front of the wing bottom match up well to the fuselage wing fillets, suggesting to me that my wing mods were pretty accurate.
Step 5: Now I have to chop the tail off the P-39 and fit on the P-51 tail. I think this will probably be the easiest approach here. I also have to lengthen the fuselage by 24 inches or 24/72 - 1/3". Fortunately the rear and front of the wing bottom match up well to the fuselage wing fillets, suggesting to me that my wing mods were pretty accurate.
3 October, 23:09
Dave Burgess
Thanks, Robert. Y'know, the first time I decided to to a mod that required me to cut up a new kit, that was EXACTLY my reaction. I was terrified that I was going to destroy a perfectly good kit and have to throw it away. And that was only one kit - this one required me to cut up TWO!. Several decades of model building and multiple mods have given me the confidence to do these mods, knowing that while it may look a hot mess when it's in progress, with a little sheet styrene and some putty, I can pull it off, and most people wouldn't be the wiser.
Thanks, Robert. Y'know, the first time I decided to to a mod that required me to cut up a new kit, that was EXACTLY my reaction. I was terrified that I was going to destroy a perfectly good kit and have to throw it away. And that was only one kit - this one required me to cut up TWO!. Several decades of model building and multiple mods have given me the confidence to do these mods, knowing that while it may look a hot mess when it's in progress, with a little sheet styrene and some putty, I can pull it off, and most people wouldn't be the wiser.
4 October, 13:24
Dave Burgess
Step 6: Wing and fuselage have now been modified for XP-39E / P-76; Still looking a bit rough; some sanding to do before I mate the wing & fuselage.
Step 6: Wing and fuselage have now been modified for XP-39E / P-76; Still looking a bit rough; some sanding to do before I mate the wing & fuselage.
4 October, 19:53
Dave Burgess
Step 7: Modified fuselage mated to modified wing. more putty applied. I have to sand down the wing fillets, a couple of low spots on the wing underside, and feather in the new (P-51) tail into the rest of the fuselage. Then, my favourite job: painting and decaling! I'm still trying to decide whether to just paint the XP-39E as it is in the photos, or dress it up as a P-76 in US or Soviet markings (which is probably where the P-76 would have ended up). I'm leaning towards the latter, because the only photo I could find of the XP-39E is this B&W one.
Step 7: Modified fuselage mated to modified wing. more putty applied. I have to sand down the wing fillets, a couple of low spots on the wing underside, and feather in the new (P-51) tail into the rest of the fuselage. Then, my favourite job: painting and decaling! I'm still trying to decide whether to just paint the XP-39E as it is in the photos, or dress it up as a P-76 in US or Soviet markings (which is probably where the P-76 would have ended up). I'm leaning towards the latter, because the only photo I could find of the XP-39E is this B&W one.
5 October, 00:27
Gary Schurr
deține acest articol
deține acest articol
U.S. Aerospace Ground Equipment Set
Hasegawa 1:72
X72: 6 (X72-006) 1984 Instrumentul nou Subiecte multiple (7)7 October, 02:19
Gary Schurr
deține acest articol
deține acest articol
Aircraft Weapons: IV US Air to Ground Missiles
Hasegawa 1:72
X72-4 (X72-004) 1983 Instrumentul nou Subiecte multiple (12)7 October, 02:15
J D
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
23 12 June 2022, 14:34
Wayne LaBar
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
12 6 October, 17:17
Wayne LaBar
Erik, the eyes are glass globes I bought off either ebay or amazon. They are from China. They were a bit too small (.5mm) but I added black o-rings which fit perfectly and the globes rests on the O-rings
Erik, the eyes are glass globes I bought off either ebay or amazon. They are from China. They were a bit too small (.5mm) but I added black o-rings which fit perfectly and the globes rests on the O-rings
6 October, 18:11
René "Lord Bilbo" Bartholemy
I'm pushing my lower jaw closed, blink in my bulging eyes and try to curb my admiration! 🤯
I'm pushing my lower jaw closed, blink in my bulging eyes and try to curb my admiration! 🤯
6 October, 20:48
Jim J
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
10 26 September, 01:51
Jim J
Progress on my next project -- main build and camo painting completed. MRP paints for main camo.
Progress on my next project -- main build and camo painting completed. MRP paints for main camo.
26 September, 01:53
Jim J
My rendition of Airfix's Supermarine Walrus Mk I is complete. Kit decals were no problem. Oils for panel line wash. Tamiya acrylics for weathering grime and streaks. Oils and colored pencils for further weathering. EZ line for rigging. Thanks for looking.
My rendition of Airfix's Supermarine Walrus Mk I is complete. Kit decals were no problem. Oils for panel line wash. Tamiya acrylics for weathering grime and streaks. Oils and colored pencils for further weathering. EZ line for rigging. Thanks for looking.
6 October, 23:05
Nathan Dempsey
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
1 imagini
Mirage 2000C - Operation DaguetNou: 7 October, 01:52 1:48
Proiect: Mirage 2000C - Operation Daguet
7 October, 01:51
Nathan Dempsey
The next project is up and running. This one will likely get a slow start as there's another hurricane headed my way…
The next project is up and running. This one will likely get a slow start as there's another hurricane headed my way…
7 October, 02:01
Stephen Meyer
a marcat acest articol ca la comandă
a marcat acest articol ca la comandă
ROCAF Flying Boxcar
Fairchild C-119 (Compact Series) Freedom Model Kits 1:Egg
162048 2021 Instrumentul nou 7 October, 01:58
DuperScale
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
40 11 July, 21:06
Chris Parsons
Oh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment
Oh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment
11 July, 23:27
Thomas Kolb
OMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!
OMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!
12 July, 02:31
DuperScale
Welcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.
Welcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.
12 July, 06:24
Nicolas
Following. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.
Following. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.
16 July, 14:48
Chris Parsons
Hi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….
Hi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….
16 July, 23:24
Treehugger
DuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.
DuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.
20 August, 05:21
Treehugger
As for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.
If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.
Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.
As for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.
If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.
Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.
20 August, 05:25
Treehugger
Another thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.
What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.
Another thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.
What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.
20 August, 05:35
Treehugger
In this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.
Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)
In this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.
Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)
20 August, 07:35
Łukasz Gliński
The UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent styrene from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream, Avanti & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
[img1]
Blue Jetstream (SP-KWN) | Album by Woody (1:72)
Avanti! | Album by Woody (1:72)
The UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent styrene from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream, Avanti & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
[img1]
Blue Jetstream (SP-KWN) | Album by Woody (1:72)
Avanti! | Album by Woody (1:72)
20 August, 07:59
DuperScale
Hi, thanks for the input mates. I'm quite happy with the kristal clear on the small windows and i think i do it like Lukasz said. After everything is done i do the windows as the last step.
The windscreen window could work but i think i used little to much of the kristal clear.
Hi, thanks for the input mates. I'm quite happy with the kristal clear on the small windows and i think i do it like Lukasz said. After everything is done i do the windows as the last step.
The windscreen window could work but i think i used little to much of the kristal clear.
20 August, 16:10
Mr D
Like the cockpit..👍
Lots of work but doing a 👍 job... Be rewarding when done.
Like the cockpit..👍
Lots of work but doing a 👍 job... Be rewarding when done.
17 September, 20:48
J35J
The kit is coming together very good. You are skilled and brave!
Great to follow the journey to see the final result. 👍🏻
The kit is coming together very good. You are skilled and brave!
Great to follow the journey to see the final result. 👍🏻
30 September, 19:28
DuperScale
Thanks for the nice comments, from far away it looks good but the fit, lack of detail and scale problems are really annoying.😅
Thanks for the nice comments, from far away it looks good but the fit, lack of detail and scale problems are really annoying.😅
6 October, 14:37
Nicolas
That's the main reason why I've never dared to try a vacu kit before. I've learned a lot from you. Looks good so far.
That's the main reason why I've never dared to try a vacu kit before. I've learned a lot from you. Looks good so far.
6 October, 16:08
Waverley
vrea acest articol
vrea acest articol
Douglas
C-47 Dakota - Corrected Tail Rudder for Trumpeter Quickboost 1:48
QB 48 238 2010 Instrumentul nou 7 October, 01:47
/ro/search.php?q=*&page=newsfeed&fkSECTION[]=Newsfeed
search-solr.php?lang=ro
35
35
/ro/search.php?q=*&page=newsfeed&fkSECTION[]=Newsfeed
35
todo