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Doubtingmango
Watching

Mr D
Thanks, Appreciate the interest, lm reality new to the hobby about 14 months, finding my way with techniques.
Weathering n panel lines need more learning.
The IAR-80 was decent price from HB and liked the paint scheme...bit different
👍👍

J35J
I'm in!

Mr D
Thanks J35.
Nice to have the interest, HB instructions bit weak!
They said to paint interior charcoal black like on the FW-190.
But l checked n the Romanian lAR interior was grey/blue.
Engine building next 6 parts deal.
Cheers 😃👍

Miguel Vaquero
Looking good mate. Following!!

Mr D
Good to have you along Miguel, engine n wings next,
A small amount of the wing is seen through bottom of cockpit, the HB instructions didn't mention painting it first!!
But the fit of the model be ok so far.
👍👍

Robert Podkoński
Joining the party!

Mr D
Thanks Robert, good to have you on board 👋😀👍

Miguel Vaquero
Love the idea of filling with acrylic, never thought about it. Does it hold well though time?

Mr D
Hi, Yes lve used it alot and holds up really well , l find the fillers a bit messy and more trouble than it's worth on small gaps.
You do need to allow overnight drying with it for best sanding results.
😀👍

Doubtingmango
Brilliant! The putty really can create a mess with finely molded details

NLAWScametovisit
This is extremely clever!!!

Mr D
Yes it has a habit of filling in panel lines n bits not necessary!!
This technique is same as using alot of paint to fill a gap or high build primer ect...just becomes part of the paint layer as it acrylic too.
But it's not for big gaps!! As there is a bit of shrinking overnight.
Be onto marking rivets next step after sanding... Then need to make choices on open or closed canopy???

Kesa Tiho
If anyone dare look away from that then every romanian within a 20 km radius will undo all your progress like a bunch of wolves eating a sheep

Doubtingmango
So I just finished this little Italian job. The decals came out with a lot of the edges showing, which then got a lot worse when I added some washes. I used Microset on the decals, and then sealed them with Tamiya semi-gloss before the washes, but it actually looks like the washes got under the decals. Any thoughts?

Bogicevic Vladimir
It looks like you haven't spray gloss coat before you applied decals. Or decals didn't set well. There are two solutions. One is lacquer thinner. Put the thinner with fine brush in dots over the place where you have silvering. Thinner should destroy the film. If it raises paint under, just leave it, it will settle back. Important thing here is that, once you applied thinner, you shouldn't touch decal for something like 20 minutes, at least. Second way is mix of sugar and water, half - half. You make a hole with a needle on the decal, than you put mix on the top. It should enter in the space between decal and paint and, when drayed, make a gloss film in between them which will act as a gloss under the decal. Wipe excess mix with wet cloath and you are done.

Mr James
How annoying. I've never heard of the sugar water trick from Bogicevic. I'll be interested if this works. If the thinner, sugar trick fails, what else can you do but use a scalpel to cut around them, since you've sealed it,

Mr James
Oh, nice paintjob by the way

Doubtingmango
Thanks mates! I believe Bogicevic is right. I think I did fail to gloss coat before the decals. I think I'll try the sugar water first