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Skyhiker
Oh, this looks like fun!

Chris Parsons
Oh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment

Thomas Kolb
OMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!

DuperScale
Welcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.

Łukasz Gliński
Another BroPlan fan, welcome to the club 😄

Nicolas
Following. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.

Robert Podkoński
Ambitious project! Watching.

Chris Parsons
Hi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….

Cristian A
Following along.

Michael Kohl
Mee too.

J35J
Following with intrest! 👍🏻

Finn
This will be good

Ben M
👀

Treehugger
DuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.

Treehugger
As for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.

If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.

Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.

Treehugger
Another thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.

What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.

Treehugger
In this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.

Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)

Łukasz Gliński
The UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent styrene from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream, Avanti & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
[img1]
Blue Jetstream (SP-KWN) | Album by Woody (1:72)
Avanti! | Album by Woody (1:72)

DuperScale
Hi, thanks for the input mates. I'm quite happy with the kristal clear on the small windows and i think i do it like Lukasz said. After everything is done i do the windows as the last step.

The windscreen window could work but i think i used little to much of the kristal clear.

Mr D
Good to see a vacform 😃👍

Cuajete
Well done so far 👍

David Taylor
Watching.

J35J
Great work so far with the vac👍🏻

Mr D
Like the cockpit..👍
Lots of work but doing a 👍 job... Be rewarding when done.

Cuajete
Great (hard) job so far. Go on!

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Chris Parsons
Very nicely done and great progress!
Keep up the great work

David Taylor
You have definitely got your work cut out.

J35J
The kit is coming together very good. You are skilled and brave!
Great to follow the journey to see the final result. 👍🏻

Ludvík Kružík
I still miss this small helicopter in my collection of flying machines used in Czechoslovakia. The time has come for me to rectify that. 😉

Villiers de Vos
I will follow along.

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome Villiers! 🙂

Greg Baker
Oh. I built a 1/72 version of the Mi-1M... This should be interesting.

Ludvík Kružík
Hello, Greg. I know there's a Mi-1M kit in 1/72nd scale. Unfortunately, only this and a rather old kit from Special Hobby exists in 1/48 scale. In addition, this kit is an older version of the Mi-1A, which is different from the upgraded version of the Mi-1M. It has a different nose shape, different cockpit glazing and other minor changes. And since I decided to build the upgraded version of the Mi-1M, I will not avoid modifications to the kit.
To give you a better idea of the extent of the modifications to the kit, I've included a picture with the differences between the Mi-1A and Mi-1M versions color coded.

Greg Baker
Oh, neat! I didn't realize there were so many changes between the versions. This is going to look great!

Ludvík Kružík
Greg, thank you for your support.
____________________
I started building the model by making new transparent parts.

Alec K
Taking a seat, this brings back memories of ABC magazine 😜👍

gorby
Nice work moulding the new transparent parts.

Greg Baker
Yeah. Nice work on the heat-n-smash moulding for the clear parts. That can be tricky to do.

Ludvík Kružík
@Alec K
I used to buy ABC magazine regularly as a kid and eagerly awaited each new issue 🙂. I assume your mention of ABC magazine refers to the occasional modeling tutorial section.

@gorby, @Greg Baker
It's not too difficult to make new transparent parts by stretching warmed transparent foil over a pre-made template. Preparing the template is the most work. Stretching the warmed foil onto the template is just a routine that anyone can do after a few attempts.

Alec K
Correct 🙂👍👍

Robert Podkoński
How have I missed this? Taking a seat for sure! 🙂

Ludvík Kružík
Hello, Robert! Good to see you here. You haven't missed much so far. Up to this point I've been more concerned with preparation than building the model.

Ludvík Kružík
I want to try to use the sandwich construction in the production of new glass parts for the coptics. So I made (using the same process as the transparent parts) parts out of white plastic sheeting. These parts will have holes cut out for the windows. The transparent part will then be inserted between these two parts. The white outer and inner parts will form the embossed framing of the transparent part.

Jennifer Franklin
That looks great (as per usual 😛)

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome, Jennifer, we're glad to have you on board and thank you for your goodwill. 🙂

Ludvík Kružík
I came back from vacation and it started to rain. Ideal conditions for modelling. 🙂

So I'm back and continuing to work on the model. I need to glue the finished nose to the glued fuselage so the cockpit overlay fits exactly. That determines the workflow. First I have to finish the nose and the inside of the fuselage and glue all the parts that need to be glued to the fuselage halves from the inside. After gluing the fuselage halves together, I would no longer be able to get to these parts (or only with great difficulty).

Photos of the work progress will be coming soon.

Alexander Grivonev
Oh some modeling for big boys, not glueing perfectly fitting parts together and throwing on some paint! Following 👍

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome, Alexander! 🙂

Ludvík Kružík
I glued several parts to both halves of the fuselage. These parts are glued from the inside, so they have to be glued before the fuselage is closed.
I also started working on making new parts for the cockpit.

Landlubber Mike
Wow, this is incredible work Ludvik! Thank you for sharing your steps - I've learned a lot from your pictures and descriptions!

Villiers de Vos
Fantastic scratch build skills.

Ludvík Kružík
@Landlubber Mike
Mike, thank you for your interest. Welcome aboard!
I've had the idea for this rebuild in my head for a few years now. Mainly because I've been waiting to see if anyone would start making 1:48 scale Mi-1M kits. Unfortunately, to this day, no manufacturer has this kit in their lineup. So I decided not to wait any longer and start building a model from what I have available.
My rebuild is just beginning. Most of the work on the model is yet to be done. I'd also like to try some new techniques that came to mind while planning to build this model.

@Villiers
Thank you for the compliment. I appreciate it very much.

Ludvík Kružík
I didn't have much time today, so I didn't make much progress on the build. But every little bit of progress counts. 😉

J35J
Great progress and detailing! Following

Bruce Huxtable
Wow! You don't shy away from challenges! Watchinh with admiration, and hoping to learn lots too. Hoping you are not amongst the floods? Stay safe!

Ludvík Kružík
J35J welcome! I hope you like it here.

Bruce, I like a challenge like that. I like to experiment and enjoy thinking of and then implementing ways to improve my model.

I appreciate your concern for my safety. I live in a town in the highlands that wasn't badly affected by the floods. Only the river that runs through our town has increased flow, but it hasn't spilled out of its bed. Moreover, our house is 80 metres above the river, so even if the river had spilled out of its bed, it would certainly not have reached our house.

Bruce Huxtable
It sounds an idyllic location.....Opravdu, česka příroda je krasná....

Ludvík Kružík
Bruce, thank you for the compliment. I'm sure the nature is beautiful in England too. 😉

Ludvík Kružík
I'm slowly continuing to make small parts.

Alec K
Nice progress, this will be a beauty 👍

bughunter
Another big bunch of parts, not to mention some kit parts, come together to form one big model! Not to be missed!
I'm late, but I have an excuse. First I was on holiday, and then this stupid C-virus knocked me out.

Ludvík Kružík
Alec, thank you for your support and your kind words.

Welcome, Frank. I hope you're okay, and I'm really glad you're one of my guests.
It's definitely not too late. I still have most of my work ahead of me. In fact, you could say I'm just getting started.

TH SCALE MODELS (Thomas Haberl)
Uhhhhhh … this is going to be another good one from you! I'm in 👍

Ludvík Kružík
Thomas, welcome. It's good to see you among my guests. 🙂

Ludvík Kružík
I'm struggling with time rather than the model at the moment. At least I managed to draw a new dashboard. After printing it in scale (1/48) on photo paper I will use it instead of the kit part.

John
Another Ludvik conversion build with all the accuracy and attention to detail.we've come to expect. It's looking good, can't wait to see the final result! 👍

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome, John. Please have a little patience. This project is quite demanding and I will need a lot of time to complete it.

John
Ok, I aimed that to "I can wait to see the final result" (but I'm still eager) 😉

Alec K
Wow, the dashboard looks amazing. I can only imagine how much time that took. Really interested how it looks completed 👍

Ludvík Kružík
Alec, I drew the dashboard in the evenings for 5 days (about 3 to 4 hours each day). Add to that additional time (about 5 hours) for test printing and subsequent corrections.

I am attaching a photo of a test black and white print of the dashboard after all the modifications are complete. I will print the dashboard for the model in color later.

Ludvík Kružík
According to the photos I modified the fuselage where the main landing gear is attached to it.

Guy Rump
Looking good, following. 👍

Jakub Biganovsky
Good morning.
Realy nice and fine work.

Robert Podkoński
These modifications are just perfect, Ludviku...

Ludvík Kružík
Guy, Jakub and Robert thank you for your comments, it's a nice encouragement for further work.

After today, the hull is glued together. Now I'm adjusting the shape of the transparent cockpit cover.

Ben M
I continue to enjoy seeing this one take shape. Quite the effort to convert it!

Ludvík Kružík
Hello, Ben. I'm glad you're interested in my project.

Greg Baker
This is looking good!

Ludvík Kružík
Thank you Greg!

Villiers de Vos
Starting to take shape.

Ludvík Kružík
Villiers, the completion of the fuselage is only temporary at this time. It's only to modify the shape of the transparent cockpit cover.
Once the cockpit cover is the correct shape, I will take the fuselage nose down again to continue work on the cockpit interior.

Ludvík Kružík
Work on the model continues with the production of the cockpit.

Greg Baker
This is becoming a scratchbuilding masterclass!

Ludvík Kružík
Greg, thank you for the compliment.

A small shift in the work on the internal equipment of the helicopter's nose.

Jennifer Franklin
Ludvik, I greatly admire your skill.

Rando
Ludvik, a modeling god. The detail and scratchbuilding is just otherworldly and I always learn so much from your build logs

Ludvík Kružík
Jennifer, thank you for your kind words.

Randa, thank you so much for your contribution. Although I don't consider myself a modeling god, your comment made me very happy. Thank you.

Ludvík Kružík
This afternoon I continued making details for the nose of the helicopter.

Ludvík Kružík
Little progress today. The cockpit got a floor, internal construction and a coat of grey paint. Now I can start to get the cockpit "settled in".

Tcamp
Texas hurricane is underway let the fun begin!
Sorry for inverted pics cant get rotated🤠

Ben M
Rotation is well hidden. To rotate your photos, open your album. Click on "manage". Then turn on the "advanced options" toggle. You will now have the ability to rotate photos in the album.

Tcamp
Thanks ben
That was driving me nuts!!!!
Appreciate that brother!

Ben M
Glad I could help, mate! Looks like a fun build.

Tcamp
So far so good just a cat 1 now hopefully ill turn her into a cat 5 (LOL)

Tcamp
I reworked the main jib boom
I wasnt feeling the kit one
Its still a work in progress

Doubtingmango
Beautiful work!

Tcamp
Thank yall
Im not a rivet counter or anything but.....
The more i looked at the kit boom i could not figure how it would work ..
Revell had their boom right im also going to support mine as they did and use poles instead of ratlines. Which tie down inside of the work area ?
Im not feeling that one either lol
Again thanks

M0rce
Oooohhh... so nice 🙂
A Lindberg kit? Seen them but never got one, yet. That looks amazing.

Snake Plissken
Started out life as a Pyro Plastics kit which in turn was a reverse-engineered copy (pretty much a blatant rip-off) of the Model Shipways wooden kit of the M.T. (Motor Trawler) Hildina H-222 which was built by Cook, Welton & Gemmell Ltd. in 1951. If you look for photos, you will see it matches the Hildina except for some artistic license in the pilothouse windows mainly but an easy fix. The sloped rear pilothouse roof is also a distinctive feature of the Hildina. Apparently the front boom can face forward or aft (is it on a swivel?) according to need. I know the boom was used to hoist the cod end (heaviest part of the net) aboard. These kits are a great basis for conversion to R/C as the original plastic kits were motorized.

M0rce
The details on this kit are so crisp. Looking forward to seeing what you're doing to the rear section.

Tcamp
Me too. ( LOL )
thanks m0rce

Snake Plissken
@M0rce I thought you meant where the deckhouse meets the wrap-around stern section; there's a bad gap there where the aft doors are, port and starboard, but maybe you meant the rear mast. Some trawlers only had a foremast and added a simple derrick to handle the lifeboat.