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David Henyk
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WW1 Austro-Hungarian printed linen "sworl" camouflage (Clear decal)
Aviattic 1:72
ATT72031 7 November, 22:49
Diorama Dude
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
42 imagini
Yom Kippur War October 1973 -Golan Heights- IDF advance through the Valley of TearsNou: 7 November, 22:20 1:35
2 7 November, 22:07
Skyhiker
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
20 imagini
Sukhoi Su-47 BerkutNou: 7 November, 22:28 1:72
I used a bit of styrene and some Tamiya tape to simulate the raised areas on the landing gear doors.
Proiect: Sukhoi Su-47 Berkut
13 4 November, 17:12
Mr D
Coming along nicely 👍👍 More building 🤣 going ahead,
Smart and interesting aircraft, lm going to have to research n watch some YouTube videos on this aircraft.
Like the cockpit 👌
Coming along nicely 👍👍 More building 🤣 going ahead,
Smart and interesting aircraft, lm going to have to research n watch some YouTube videos on this aircraft.
Like the cockpit 👌
7 November, 22:39
Kesa Tiho
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
3 imagini
M4 sherman i may make into a Normandy moc. Dont know yetNou: 7 November, 22:35 1:35
Got my two boys in. Tommy and tommi
Proiect: M4 sherman (possible Normandy moc)
7 November, 18:10
Jurica Antić
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
7 November, 22:17
Trev
Nice. I'm definitely going to try the "pencils and tape in engine" trick, that looks really useful.
Nice. I'm definitely going to try the "pencils and tape in engine" trick, that looks really useful.
7 November, 22:26
Jakub Fiala
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
44 1 August, 12:38
Ludvík Kružík
Jakub, the construction progress so far looks very good.
Maybe you'll find a liking in WWI models. 😉
Jakub, the construction progress so far looks very good.
Maybe you'll find a liking in WWI models. 😉
18 August, 22:35
Jakub Fiala
Thank you, mates!
Ludvíku, i must say, that i am enjoing it so far. But there will be more challenges later( riggings, lozenge....) So, i will see. But i believe, that WWII will remains my priority 🙂
Thank you, mates!
Ludvíku, i must say, that i am enjoing it so far. But there will be more challenges later( riggings, lozenge....) So, i will see. But i believe, that WWII will remains my priority 🙂
19 August, 12:11
bughunter
I'm a bit late in commenting do to my holiday - nice work so far!
Since there are some pitfalls: do you want a fun build or should it be correct?
Which specific serial do you plan to build?
I'm a bit late in commenting do to my holiday - nice work so far!
Since there are some pitfalls: do you want a fun build or should it be correct?
Which specific serial do you plan to build?
21 August, 10:03
Jakub Fiala
Thank you, Frank!
I want to build 8244/17 of Jasta 54. This marking is, according Eduard instructions, just a reconstruction based on the description in the flight log, revealed in the Jasta Color book. So, in my opinion it will be difficult to buid it 100% correct 🙂 However, I will of course be grateful for any advice and recommendations
Thank you, Frank!
I want to build 8244/17 of Jasta 54. This marking is, according Eduard instructions, just a reconstruction based on the description in the flight log, revealed in the Jasta Color book. So, in my opinion it will be difficult to buid it 100% correct 🙂 However, I will of course be grateful for any advice and recommendations
21 August, 18:10
bughunter
Ok, on a Pfalz D.IIIa the engine is different. The very simplified Eduard (the pipe work on the lower end of the cylinders is the water, what you have painted dark red - but this is not much visible later) engine shows a older 160hp Mercedes D.III. This is especially shown by the valve train, which can be seen on top of the engine.
Two bolts on top, and the valve in the middle: [img1]
The later 185hp Mercedes D.IIIa was also available for some Pfalz D.III, and nearly all of Pfalz D.IIIa pictures shows this stronger version. The drawings I know too. The engine is a little bit bigger, but the valve train looks very different - four bolts and the valves rockers comes out of the side:
[img1]
Roden has a better representation of this engine (same sprue on all kits), and it is also more correct in size. That means I cannot get it into this model 🙁
No worries mate, only an expert will notice on the finished model 🙂
And regarding the wings: I strongly recommend Aviattic decals. The ones printed on clear paper (normal) and the ones printed on white for rib tapes. Or you use the Eduard rib tapes. I have some build logs explaining the usage.
Ok, on a Pfalz D.IIIa the engine is different. The very simplified Eduard (the pipe work on the lower end of the cylinders is the water, what you have painted dark red - but this is not much visible later) engine shows a older 160hp Mercedes D.III. This is especially shown by the valve train, which can be seen on top of the engine.
Two bolts on top, and the valve in the middle: [img1]
The later 185hp Mercedes D.IIIa was also available for some Pfalz D.III, and nearly all of Pfalz D.IIIa pictures shows this stronger version. The drawings I know too. The engine is a little bit bigger, but the valve train looks very different - four bolts and the valves rockers comes out of the side:
[img1]
Roden has a better representation of this engine (same sprue on all kits), and it is also more correct in size. That means I cannot get it into this model 🙁
No worries mate, only an expert will notice on the finished model 🙂
And regarding the wings: I strongly recommend Aviattic decals. The ones printed on clear paper (normal) and the ones printed on white for rib tapes. Or you use the Eduard rib tapes. I have some build logs explaining the usage.
30 August, 15:56
Jakub Fiala
Thank you very much, Frank, for your help!
While going through the photos and drawings of the engines, I noticed that each type is different, but I was quite confused as to which engine was the right one. In the end I didn't deal with it and just tried to scratchbuild some visible details that are missing from the kit. For example the air pump, pipes and hoses leading from the radiator on the upper wing etc. I use the WnW manual and kit ( borrowed from a friend of mine) as the main source of information 🙂
Thanks for the advice on decals. I'll try to get the Aviattic ones. But I don't know if it will be easier for me to use the lozenge decals from the kit, which are already prepared in the shape of a wing. I will see...
Thank you very much, Frank, for your help!
While going through the photos and drawings of the engines, I noticed that each type is different, but I was quite confused as to which engine was the right one. In the end I didn't deal with it and just tried to scratchbuild some visible details that are missing from the kit. For example the air pump, pipes and hoses leading from the radiator on the upper wing etc. I use the WnW manual and kit ( borrowed from a friend of mine) as the main source of information 🙂
Thanks for the advice on decals. I'll try to get the Aviattic ones. But I don't know if it will be easier for me to use the lozenge decals from the kit, which are already prepared in the shape of a wing. I will see...
3 September, 10:21
Jakub Fiala
Thank you, Alec! I hope I won't disappoint you 🙂
Welcome here, Michael.
Thank you, Alec! I hope I won't disappoint you 🙂
Welcome here, Michael.
5 September, 12:34
bughunter
Yes, the WNW manuals are a good source! You can download the manuals as PDF, the web site is still available.
But I suggest to download all what you need (also for other projects) soon. The site was away for a while already and I heard rumors that it was paid then for some additional time only.
For the Linux users among us, I suggest using "wget" with the recursive option so you can get all the PDFs, reference images and more to your hard drive without making millions of clicks,
Yes, the WNW manuals are a good source! You can download the manuals as PDF, the web site is still available.
But I suggest to download all what you need (also for other projects) soon. The site was away for a while already and I heard rumors that it was paid then for some additional time only.
For the Linux users among us, I suggest using "wget" with the recursive option so you can get all the PDFs, reference images and more to your hard drive without making millions of clicks,
5 September, 13:39
Jakub Fiala
I heard the same, bughunter. Nobody knows, how long the WnW site will be available.
I heard the same, bughunter. Nobody knows, how long the WnW site will be available.
19 September, 12:05
Jakub Fiala
I added a few external details from PE, Evergreen, and my favourite plastic yogurt container 🙂
The fuselage with lower wing is almost ready to paint.
I added a few external details from PE, Evergreen, and my favourite plastic yogurt container 🙂
The fuselage with lower wing is almost ready to paint.
19 September, 12:12
Alec K
Superb progress Jakube. The tail skid looks very authentic, as do the rigging buckles 👍
Superb progress Jakube. The tail skid looks very authentic, as do the rigging buckles 👍
19 October, 17:31
Ludvík Kružík
Jakub, you're doing a good job. All the detail you put into it looks very good and adds credibility to the model. 👍
Jakub, you're doing a good job. All the detail you put into it looks very good and adds credibility to the model. 👍
26 October, 09:16
Jakub Fiala
I sprayed the colors on the fuselage and applied the first layer of lozenge decal from Eduard. Unfortunately, I could not find those from Aviattic at any of the e-shops. I have to admit I'm too lazy to order them directly from the UK manufacturer 🙂
I sprayed the colors on the fuselage and applied the first layer of lozenge decal from Eduard. Unfortunately, I could not find those from Aviattic at any of the e-shops. I have to admit I'm too lazy to order them directly from the UK manufacturer 🙂
7 November, 11:06
Mark Sherwood
The Pfalz is looking good Jakub, despite the mishaps. I have had similar problems, even though I de-tacked the tape. Still it looks like it's coming good. 🤘🥸🤟
The Pfalz is looking good Jakub, despite the mishaps. I have had similar problems, even though I de-tacked the tape. Still it looks like it's coming good. 🤘🥸🤟
7 November, 12:50
Mr D
Looking great... Definitely a future model for me, lve not built an Eduard yet.
Good luck with next steps 😀👍
Looking great... Definitely a future model for me, lve not built an Eduard yet.
Good luck with next steps 😀👍
7 November, 15:16
Ludvík Kružík
Accidents like this always hurt. But you did a great job fixing it.
What manufacturer did you use for the lozenge decals?
Accidents like this always hurt. But you did a great job fixing it.
What manufacturer did you use for the lozenge decals?
7 November, 22:33
Hang Li
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
a adăugat un nou photoalbum.
45 24 June, 07:48
Thomas Wirsching
Great job so far! I would love to get an explanation about how to do these LED lighting in detail as I have no idea about this.
Great job so far! I would love to get an explanation about how to do these LED lighting in detail as I have no idea about this.
8 July, 05:04
Hang Li
Thanks Tim, Villiers, and Thomas. I did put a led for the trolled sonar bay back at the stern. It is apparently not bright enough to be really visible. Probably not noticeable after finished.
I prefer to use Led tape light as it has build in resistors so I don't need do calculation to figure out the resistor value. Once that is sorted, what left is just connect the led unit with a battery and a switch. I think it is better to ask a trained electrician as the circiut I built don't last long and I don't really know why.
Thanks Tim, Villiers, and Thomas. I did put a led for the trolled sonar bay back at the stern. It is apparently not bright enough to be really visible. Probably not noticeable after finished.
I prefer to use Led tape light as it has build in resistors so I don't need do calculation to figure out the resistor value. Once that is sorted, what left is just connect the led unit with a battery and a switch. I think it is better to ask a trained electrician as the circiut I built don't last long and I don't really know why.
9 July, 12:37
Michael Kohl
I expect modelling of the highest quality from your bench. So far I am not disappointed. 🙂
Keep it up.
I expect modelling of the highest quality from your bench. So far I am not disappointed. 🙂
Keep it up.
6 August, 09:58
Treehugger
Hm, how long did it take to make the nice looking ocean surface? It certainly looks like a fun project.
I wish I knew how to make such ocean surfaces, as it really seem to complete a model with such a diorama.
I am no expert on led's but my impression is that one has to be careful that the voltage to the led's is controlled to specs, so they don't burn out shortly after and end up being un-repairable inside the model. Also, something about connecting led's in parallel, pattern iirc, to avoid one dead led blacking out all the rest of the leds in a serial connection, iirc.
Hm, how long did it take to make the nice looking ocean surface? It certainly looks like a fun project.
I wish I knew how to make such ocean surfaces, as it really seem to complete a model with such a diorama.
I am no expert on led's but my impression is that one has to be careful that the voltage to the led's is controlled to specs, so they don't burn out shortly after and end up being un-repairable inside the model. Also, something about connecting led's in parallel, pattern iirc, to avoid one dead led blacking out all the rest of the leds in a serial connection, iirc.
25 August, 09:36
Hang Li
Thanks Treehugger, THomas and Tim.
As for the sea base, you can check a YouTube channel called ''studio blue ocean'', I basically followed his videos. And treehugger did a pretty good summary for LEDs. The voltages is very important and it is always needed to put some resistors in series to potect the LEDs. The size of the resistors can be calculated with ohms' law. There are small circuit boards for LEDs which can be used to make everything easier.
Thanks Treehugger, THomas and Tim.
As for the sea base, you can check a YouTube channel called ''studio blue ocean'', I basically followed his videos. And treehugger did a pretty good summary for LEDs. The voltages is very important and it is always needed to put some resistors in series to potect the LEDs. The size of the resistors can be calculated with ohms' law. There are small circuit boards for LEDs which can be used to make everything easier.
8 September, 12:51
Villiers de Vos
Fantastic work with all the photoetch parts. Your attention to detail shows.
Fantastic work with all the photoetch parts. Your attention to detail shows.
14 September, 03:48
Thomas Wirsching
Getting better and better; can you please show us a detail picture from the inside of the hangar? Did you build this from scratch?
Getting better and better; can you please show us a detail picture from the inside of the hangar? Did you build this from scratch?
14 September, 03:49
Hang Li
Thanks, Rui and Villiers. I just masked the hangar as I am going to paint the outside. I will get better hangar photos once finish. The trumpster kit comes with the hangar and the ceiling is in good detail (I only add LEDs to the ceiling). Only the walls need additional work to add details, like handrails, supports etc.
Thanks, Rui and Villiers. I just masked the hangar as I am going to paint the outside. I will get better hangar photos once finish. The trumpster kit comes with the hangar and the ceiling is in good detail (I only add LEDs to the ceiling). Only the walls need additional work to add details, like handrails, supports etc.
14 September, 12:27
Ingmar Stöhr
Wow! Fantastic detail work and great job on the weathering and the base!
Wow! Fantastic detail work and great job on the weathering and the base!
25 October, 06:13
Ingmar Stöhr
@Hang Li: For the 'oil canning' effect. Did you have accurate plans for the frame spacing or how did you come up with the pattern you used? I have to say that is look really convincing after some more weathering effects are applied on top.
@Hang Li: For the 'oil canning' effect. Did you have accurate plans for the frame spacing or how did you come up with the pattern you used? I have to say that is look really convincing after some more weathering effects are applied on top.
25 October, 10:09
Hang Li
thanks Ingmar, Gary and Villiers. As for the 'oil canning' effect, I found some photos which are somewhat visible for this effect as reference for the pattern and I have to simplifie the pattern to make it practical. So it is not quite accurate. I got some pre-cutted masking paper in 1mm, 2mm, and 3mm and I just picked one that I believe is most suitable.
thanks Ingmar, Gary and Villiers. As for the 'oil canning' effect, I found some photos which are somewhat visible for this effect as reference for the pattern and I have to simplifie the pattern to make it practical. So it is not quite accurate. I got some pre-cutted masking paper in 1mm, 2mm, and 3mm and I just picked one that I believe is most suitable.
26 October, 10:58
Ingmar Stöhr
Thank you for the explanation! It looks convincing to me! Keep up the great work!
Thank you for the explanation! It looks convincing to me! Keep up the great work!
26 October, 11:52
Miguel Vaquero
Amazing build!! Did you use resin for the sea base? If so, how did you manage to make that rough sea surface? It looks amazing
Amazing build!! Did you use resin for the sea base? If so, how did you manage to make that rough sea surface? It looks amazing
7 November, 08:54
Thomas Wirsching
astonishing build and breathtaking seascape. Hats off to your talent!
astonishing build and breathtaking seascape. Hats off to your talent!
7 November, 15:42
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