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gorby
WOW, spectacular!

Moritz
Thank you 🙂

Marc .
Masterpiece!!!

Lebloge
Splendid !!! 🫡

Lost_Erik
Fine work on display. I like the apple-in-hand. {Might have been me.}

Llyr
Looking good

Ekki
Watching.

Nicolas
Taking a seat.

Łukasz Gliński
Me 4

Lost_Erik
Great progress on your F4D.

Michael Kohl
Following

Dominik Weitzer
great start. you make excellent work

Martin Oostrom
Two Beemers at the same time? Love it

MS K
Painting the shell requires drying time, so I started working on something else in the meantime, and it happened to be a BMW again. 😉

Carlos Proença
Following. Nice job!!!!!

Treehugger
Presumably a good-enough decal softener will help against silvering, where silvering is air tapped under the decal because of the rough texture of the painted surface.
Solvaset = stronger decal softener
MicroSol = default decal softener?

After applying a decal softener, the decals MUST NOT be touched, even if it starts looking wrinkly. The wrinkles all disappear after a while.

One thing I like to do after airbrushing on primer and also paint, is to gently go over with sanding sponge, but never over edges as that will surely removed paint off the plastic, but large flat surfaces are typically safe to sand down very gently, to create a more flat surface. For this to work, it is important that the base layer, the primer paint, is sanded flat first, else the uneven primer paint will show through the paint layer, if you only sand the paint layer on top.

schecter87
I'm using Tamiya Mark Fit Super Strong. Just apply the softener to the surface of the decal and after a couple of minutes, gently press it onto the surface with a cotton swab. If the decal is not welded, then it may fall off in pieces along with the varnish 🙁 .

Sy Bar
Love the use of UV resin on the logo badges, an idea I'll use from now on many thanks

MS K
You're welcome~ 😉

Maurits van der Aa
Nice progress my friend. A lot of improvements you made

D P
That's awesome! But how did you fix silvering? The end result looks perfect.