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Anthony lfk
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Su-35S "Flanker E" Multirole Fighter Air to Surface Version
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Anthony lfk
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Red Devils Arnhem 17 Sep. 1944 Sculptor: Young B. Song
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Anthony lfk
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Optical Elements for the "Vitebsk" Protection Complex exterior 3D decals for Zvezda
Quinta Studio 1:48
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Anthony lfk
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Ka-52 Hokum B interior 3D decals (small version) for Zvezda
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Anthony lfk
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AH-64 Apache - M230 Chain Gun barrel (30mm), pitot tubes and tail antenna
Master 1:48
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1:35
Proiect: TAMIYA 1/35 WW1 BRITISH INFANTRY
5 March, 10:40
April 17, 2024
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Anthony lfk
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F/A-18C Hornet US Navy, Swiss Air Force, Finnish Air Force & Top Gun
Kinetic 1:48
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March 11, 2024
Anthony lfk
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All comments (7) » 16 14 February, 13:36
Anthony lfk
Thanks John ! I have mixed feelings about this kit. The decals were very flimsy, it shrunk and warped when i applied the Softener. The Propeller also look weirs. But you can get aftermarket parts to enhance it.
Thanks John ! I have mixed feelings about this kit. The decals were very flimsy, it shrunk and warped when i applied the Softener. The Propeller also look weirs. But you can get aftermarket parts to enhance it.
11 March, 03:28
John
I understand about the decals. Some bad ones can ruin all your work on an otherwise good kit. The really bad part is that you don't know they're bad until you start applying them and then it's too late. Well, not too late, but definitely a lot of work to remove them then start over.
I have found one hint with decals that are not Cartografs: apply the decal as normal with a gentle decal solution like Mr. Mark Setter, then wait a few hours for them to settle before adding a stronger solution. I had some Hasegawa decals that would do the same thing (wrinkle and not smooth out) if I applied softener too soon, but if I waited overnight before applying softener, they behave much better, though they did require a little more messing with to really settle down in panel lines, etc.
I understand about the decals. Some bad ones can ruin all your work on an otherwise good kit. The really bad part is that you don't know they're bad until you start applying them and then it's too late. Well, not too late, but definitely a lot of work to remove them then start over.
I have found one hint with decals that are not Cartografs: apply the decal as normal with a gentle decal solution like Mr. Mark Setter, then wait a few hours for them to settle before adding a stronger solution. I had some Hasegawa decals that would do the same thing (wrinkle and not smooth out) if I applied softener too soon, but if I waited overnight before applying softener, they behave much better, though they did require a little more messing with to really settle down in panel lines, etc.
11 March, 16:13
Anthony lfk
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All comments (7) » 22 14 February, 11:37
Jack Aaronfeld
I really like how subtle and desaturated the camo is - what paints did you use?
I really like how subtle and desaturated the camo is - what paints did you use?
10 March, 12:39
Anthony lfk
Jack, just plain Tamiya Acrylic paint with Mr Hobby Levelling thinner. Any paint will do i believe, thin it like > 50% thinner and low pressure < 15 psi. a 0.2mm needle helps too.
Jack, just plain Tamiya Acrylic paint with Mr Hobby Levelling thinner. Any paint will do i believe, thin it like > 50% thinner and low pressure < 15 psi. a 0.2mm needle helps too.
11 March, 02:01
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Anthony lfk
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1 14 February, 08:46
Anthony lfk
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4 14 February, 08:20
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