Baby Dragon
Comentarii
41 25 March, 14:15
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Welcome, Mates! @Juergen - I use cyanoacrylate glue (thin or thick - depending on the joint) and two-part automotive finishing putty for more demanding job (bigger gaps, blending the parts together, etc.)
26 March, 18:32
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Thx Robert for your feedback. Have a quite big plane moving towards the bench and was not sure if superglue will to an adequate job for this giant as well (a Combat 1/72 BAe 146 - there is quite a pile of resin in the box). regards
27 March, 08:36
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My pleasure, Juergen 🙂 I all cases I am not sure if the joint will be strong enough I just drill holes in corresponding parts and insert pieces of wire.
27 March, 08:43
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Robert, once again you have chosen an interesting aircraft. I'll be happy to watch the progress of the build. 👀
27 March, 11:19
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I didn't know about this tiny aircraft. Very interesting.
Keep up the good work Robert, it's looking great.
26 April, 06:29
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The little dragon grows into beauty. 👍 I'm very curious to see what it will look like when it gets the "metallic" finish.
What colors do you use for MNF?
26 April, 10:18
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I use AK Xtreme Metal, Ludviku - my favourite ones. But first I masked some panels leaving them black and used Tamiya X-11 'Silver leaf' as a 'second' primer. In the end it gives the effect I like: depending on the light and the angle the NMF looks uniform or some panels look darker.
26 April, 10:24
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Robert, thank you for your reply. I have built a few aircraft with MNF finish in the past, but that was back when I used a brush or fine sponge to apply paint.
Now I have several MNF projects planned where I want to spray paint, so I'm interested in other modelers' experiences.
If I understand your process correctly, did you use Tamiiya X11 only on some panels and then completely repaint the entire surface with AK Xtreme metal? If so, I'm surprised that you achieved the effect of a different panel colour shade with this procedure. In my experience, metallic paints cover very well from a thin layer of paint onwards and reliably cover preshading, even when done with dark paint.
26 April, 12:24
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That's exactly the way I do my "preshading", Ludviku. And it works with AK Xtreme metal paints - they are ready to use with an airbrush and can be laid in very thin layers. (Please take a look at my Sanger bomber: Silverbird | Album by podkon (1:72)) The effect is very delicate, and the only issue with these paints is that they can be easily scratched.
26 April, 14:42
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Robert, I confess that I have minimal experience with MNF surface spraying. I was basing it on the properties of metallic polishable paints. These paints reliably hide the overshadowing.
The photos of your Silverbird are very convincing. I'm glad I learned something new. 😉
27 April, 11:59
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I've found that if I spray some panels with gloss black primer and others with flat grey primer and do NMF over it, I get contrasts between panels as well.
27 April, 16:58
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That's right, Ben - I used such primers too (on Me 209, for example), but with Tamiya X-11 you can use thinner layers of metallic paints (as long as you do not use copper or gold 😉
27 April, 17:49
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Holy cow that is coming along nicely! I am dreading resin kits, but you seem to be very skilled with the superglue.
28 April, 07:54
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Thanks for your motivating words, Thomas... Unfortunately, something went wrong. I need to take a few steps back...
29 April, 16:19
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Ouch, that is unfortunate ... been there done that and I know that sinking feeling! 🙁 But I am sure you will salvage the model! By the way, I recommend Alclad II Aqua Gloss. It can be applied with a brush and levels out absolutely perfect without harming the metal surface.
29 April, 16:59
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Sorry to hear what happened. Unfortunately my expierience with AK products is either hit or miss with more of the latter, that's why I always test them on a "test kit" which serves only this purpose. I use only Mr Hobby Topcoat or Topcoat premium gloss coat in spray cans and they never let me down - might be something to consider in the future.
29 April, 20:10
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Thank you for your kindness, Mates, much appreciated. Surely I will salvage the model...
30 April, 09:31
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Hallo Robert. Für Metallic würde ich dir Alclad 2 Clear Gloss auf Wasserbasis empfehlen.Alternativ Gauzy Agent von AK, ebenfalls auf Wasserbasis.
4 May, 13:26
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ARRRRRGH! Stuff like that makes me want to bin a lovely build.... Surely you can fix it? Such a cool litle jet.
4 May, 13:31
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I tried this Alclad Clear Gloss water based ones ... remains sticky for weeks! And I was told I'm not the only one with that problem. It may work ... or not. May be it depends on teh used charge, I don't know. Never tried again.
4 May, 13:44
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Thank you for your suggestions and kindness, Mates.
Yes, Casey, I started to remove all the paint from the model, the only area I am a bit concerned is the canopy - in the course of stripping the paint it become a bit dirty. But I believe that delicate polishing will fix the problem... Otherwise I will have to "pull" a new canopy (this was the second one from the kit, I broke the first, of course...)
4 May, 15:24
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Bughunter, is it the same stuff we are talking about? ALC-600 Alclad II Aqua Gloss? I have only excellent experiences with it. It protects the metallic layer but does not affect the lustre (like the AK Gauzy Agent does). I usually apply weathering and decals a day after appying the Alclad varnish and I have never had any issues with it so far.
4 May, 15:37
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Sorry, I can't remember. After I reported the issue in my build log I got the following answer:
forum.ww1aircraftmod...msg219065#msg219065
After that I disposed of the bottle, I didn't want to ruin another model. Possibly a bad batch, but apparently I wasn't the only one with the problem.
4 May, 18:37
Album info
Saab 210 was the 2/3rds scale proof of concept of the double delta configuration planned for a future J35 jet fighter. First configuration of the airframe with short 'nose' between intakes.