Perete

Rob K.
It has been a while back but I am pretty sure on the CF-104 on the tail, just in front of the exhaust area there is a base of AK Pale burnt metal and the weathering was done with Tamiya Weathering master set B&D, which is easily wiped clean with water if overdone. (See attached stash)
For the Super Sabre exhaust area (see other album/project) I used Pale burnt metal as a base followed by light vertical airbrush passes of Tamiya Clear Red, Yellow and Blue (in that order -X27,24,23), although sparingly as in 1956 the airframes were rather new. Hope this helps.

John
Rob, thank you! That is very helpful. I haven't really tried much of the Weathering Master sets. I have the snow/soot/rust one but didn't really like it (there being better ways to do soot & snow, IMO). Haven't done any super rusty exhausts lately but I can see how it would work for that. I also see the utility for doing heat stains, being able to wipe it off and start over is a major bonus.

John
The heat staining is next-level, as is the whole finish.

Michael Kohl
Absolutely. Like it a lot.

Bruce Huxtable
Superb 🙂

Marc .
Looks great!

Robert H.
very nice 👍🏻

Doubtingmango
Great work! Excellent painting and weathering can make an old kit look current!

Palo M
Fantastic paint job, Rob! How did you achieve that?

Rob K.
Completed a few years ago

1. Primer then lightly sanded smooth with Tamiya 3000 sanding sponge.
2. Coat of Mr Color Ueno black GX2, with a final coat of pure Mr leveling thinner to achieve the high black shine.
3. Few hours after the GX2 applied AK Xtreme polished aluminium (avoiding finger prints/dust etc.)
4. In my opinion it is best to seal the Polished Aluminium with Aquagloss, Gauzy or MRP-gloss as through handling the polished Alu May scuff through the build. (But not necessary). Scuffs can however be repaired with some metal powders like Mig polished aluminium powder.
5. Picked out and masked a few panels with various shades of AK en Alclad.
6. Sealed everything at the time with Mr Color GX 100 gloss. (although I stopped using this on high shine polished aluminium coats to avoid re-activation of the polished aluminium - see also mr Color website for recommendations on metal coats) Nowadays I would seal it with Aquagloss or light coats of MRP gloss.
7. Applied a Flory products waterbased wash of dark brown dirt

That is pretty much the recipe I use for all my NMF subjects, although recently I started using MRP Super Silver and Mr Color super fine/chrome silver II. Hope this answers your question. Rgds, Rob

Neuling
Top work in top presentation!

Rob K.
Thank you

CaptGPF
Agree with Neuling - the detailing and shading is exquisitely done - very had to pull off with metalics

Villiers de Vos
A classic. Very nice work.

Neuling
Wow! This finish!

John Kristoffersen
Ooooohh Nice! The config you`ve choisen was not widely used, mainly due to the fact that it had speed restrictions. Getting from Bodø AFB up to the Barents-sea requried speed. But those aircraft that were used for training, could certainly carry this config. Nevermind, it`s so nice to see RNoAF here. And yours is outstanding!

Villiers de Vos
Very nice work and effects.

Dieter Bihlmaier
Great looking Neptune Rob!

Rob K.
Thank you

Ekki
Very good!